With the dual-phase oil-water synergy mechanism, Bi-phase makeup remover is becoming one of the current stable growth makeup remover solutions.Its core value lies in the system design to achieve the simultaneous removal of oil-soluble makeup and water-soluble residues, so as to improve the overall cleaning efficiency without relying on strong stimulation of the surface body system.
Based on this trend, starting from the raw material system, Mingya has constructed a set of double-layer makeup remover solutions that take into account cleansing performance, skin feeling experience and system stability, with peg-6 capric/capric glycerides and Isopropyl myristate as the core functional units, and provides a more engineering formula reference for the development of makeup remover products.
01 Industry demand Reconstruction
In recent years, the research and development logic of makeup remover products is undergoing significant changes.With the strengthening of the functions of makeup and sunscreen products, especially the widespread application of silicone resin film-forming agents, water-resistant polymers and high-adhesion toner systems, the traditional makeup remover system with a single solvent or strong surface activity as the core is gradually difficult to meet market demand.
Judging from the feedback from the application side, there are three main types of structural problems in the current market：
First, the conflict between cleaning efficiency and moderation is still prominent.Although the strong dissolving system can quickly remove waterproof makeup, it is often accompanied by the risk of degreasing and irritation of the skin barrier, especially in people with sensitive skin.
Second, there is still room for optimization in the stability control between the oil phase system and the aqueous phase system.Some biphasic products have uneven emulsification particle size after shaking well, resulting in incomplete local cleaning or obvious residue.
Third, skin sensation experience has become a new decision-making variable.Consumers are not only concerned about “whether it is clean", but also about "whether it is refreshing and affordable”, especially in the use scenarios of the eye area and the whole face, which put forward higher requirements for low stickiness and low residue.
In this context, the core competitive point of the double-layer makeup remover system has also shifted from simple dissolution ability to system engineering design ability, including phase structure stability, surface activity selection, comprehensive balance between oil combination and skin texture optimization.
02 Analysis of formula system
(1) Phase A
As the main body of the aqueous phase of the product, phase A plays the core role of moisturizing, soothing and assisting cleansing.The formula is based on water and uses glycerin, sodium chloride and other ingredients to build a gentle and stable aqueous environment.
· Water: As a solvent carrier, it accounts for up to 100%, providing a basic dispersion medium for the formula, and it is also the main dissolving medium for water-soluble dirt, helping to take away water-soluble impurities such as sweat and dust.
· Glycerin: The added amount is 2%. As a classic Moisturizer, it can form a thin moisturizing film on the surface of the skin, reduce the loss of moisture during makeup removal, and avoid the discomfort of tightness and dryness of the skin after cleansing. At the same time, it improves the skin feeling of the product and makes the wiping process smoother. · Sodium chloride: The added amount is 2%. As an electrolyte, it plays a role in regulating osmotic pressure and enhancing system stability in the formula. At the same time, it can assist surfactants to form micelle structures and enhance the emulsifying ability of water relative to grease.
· Peg-6 capric/capric glycerides (OILREE® MY912): The added amount is 2%. As a nonionic surfactant, it is a key bridge connecting the aqueous phase and the oil phase.Its HLB value is as high as 19, and it has excellent hydrophilic/oleophilic properties. It can stably disperse and dissolve oil-soluble makeup in the aqueous phase. It can efficiently wrap and take away dirt through the micelle structure, while reducing the irritation of traditional strong surface activity to the barrier, and it has certain emollient properties.
· Dmdmh, 1,3-dihydroxymethyl-5,5-dimethyl hydantoin, ethylparaben: As a compound anticorrosive system (0.5%), it ensures microbial safety while minimizing the risk of irritation.
(2) Phase B
Phase B uses mineral oil as the main oil phase system, and is compounded with a variety of lightweight oils and volatile components, which are used to dissolve waterproof makeup and high adhesion film-forming systems.
· Mineral oil (15#white oil): 20%, which provides basic solubility, and has stable and efficient destruction and dissolution capabilities for waterproof makeup film-forming systems.
· Isopropyl myristate (NSOAF™ IPM): 2%, a small molecule highly polar ester oil that can penetrate the makeup film structure and accelerate the dissolution process. At the same time, it significantly reduces the heavyness of the oil phase and improves the problem of residual oil film after makeup remover.
· Cyclopentamethylene dimethyl siloxane: 2%, volatile silicone oil, which improves spreading and reduces greasy feeling.
· Isocetylane: 5%, an isoalkane system that provides a lightweight touch and optimizes fluidity.
03 In-depth analysis of core raw materials
(1) peg-6 capric/capric glycerides
MY912, peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, is a colorless to light yellow coconut-scented transparent liquid, packaged in 25kg/barrel or 200kg/barrel specifications, which meets the production standards of cosmetic raw materials.As a nonionic surfactant, it plays a dual role in the formula: it is not only an emulsifying bridge connecting the aqueous phase and the oil phase, but also a cleaning workhorse that efficiently dissolves grease and dirt.
In the double-layer makeup remover system, peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides has an HLB value of 19, which is a high HLB value surfactant with excellent water-oil amphiphilic properties.When the user shakes the product well, it can quickly emulsify and disperse the oil components in the oil phase into the aqueous phase to form a uniform temporary emulsion, so that the solubility of the oil phase is combined with the refreshing feeling of the aqueous phase.During the makeup remover process, its oleophilic end absorbs makeup oil and pigment to form a micelle structure, and takes away dirt with wiping.
Compared with traditional strong ion surface activity, it is less irritating, does not destroy the structure of the sebum membrane, and the skin is not easy to tighten and redden after cleansing, and at the same time has a certain emollient properties.The recommended dosage is 1-5%, and this formula uses 2% to achieve a balance between cleansing power and skin feeling.
(2) Isopropyl myristate
IPM, that is, isopropyl myristate, is a colorless and transparent small molecule high-polar grease with a specification of 175kg/barrel.In this formula, it mainly assumes the role of penetration assistance and skin feeling optimization.
Its small molecular structure can quickly enter the interface between the makeup film and the skin, speeding up the process of dissolving waterproof makeup.At the same time, it significantly reduces the heavyness of mineral oil, makes the oil phase easier to spread and reduces friction irritation.After removing makeup, it is quickly absorbed without forming a heavy oil film.
In addition, it is often used as a solvent for lipophilic active substances, which can improve the overall functional ductility of the system.This formula adds 2% to improve performance while controlling the risk of acne.
04 The advantages of the formula are highlighted
(1) Efficient cleaning
The oil phase and the water phase work in synergy, so that waterproof makeup, mascara and high adhesion powders can be quickly dissolved and taken away without repeated friction.
(2) Mild and low irritation
The non-ionic surface body system is combined with a gentle anticorrosive system to reduce the risk of irritation to the skin barrier and reduce redness and tightness.
(3) Refreshing skin feeling
Volatile silicone oil and isoalkane system reduce the residual feeling of the oil phase, and cooperate with IPM optimization to achieve a refreshing makeup remover experience.
(4) Adapt to multiple scenarios
The stability of the bipolar system is optimized, and it is suitable for daily makeup, waterproof makeup and long-lasting makeup scenes.
05 Industry development trends
The competition in the makeup remover category is shifting from the competition of end products to the competition of raw material systems and formula engineering capabilities.
In the future, the industry will continue to evolve in three directions：
· Low-stimulation upgrade of non-ion epitope system
· Replacement of lightweight oil system and skin feeling optimization
· Engineering design of the stability of the duplex system
The company will also continue to focus on the innovation of cosmetic raw materials, deepen research and development in the direction of nonionic surfactants, lightweight oils and mild anticorrosive systems, and provide a more stable formula foundation for double-layer makeup remover, cleansing and sensitive skin care products.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
