Relying on self-developed raw materials to build a stable water in oil system, we have developed a finished formula for makeup concealer BB cream.Most conventional base makeup on the market uses an oil-in-water structure. Although it is refreshing to use, it has weak makeup holding power, easy oxidation, and limited hiding power.The W/O system constructed by
Water in oil emulsifier has a special structure of external oil and internal water, with stronger water-locking ability, more stable film formation, and excellent friction and sweat resistance.
Relying on self-raw material products, our scientific research team combines a variety of emulsifiers, silicon elastomers, and film-forming raw materials, and adopts a three-stage production process of adding phase after phase A, phase B, and phase C to develop a finished W/OBB cream formula with complete formula data, stable system, and high-quality skin feeling. It can provide a mature and landing reference plan for the research and development of new makeup products, OEM mass production.
I.Water in Oil base makeup R&D background
With the popularization of the concept of pure makeup, consumers are more concerned about the formula gentleness and long-term facial comfort of base makeup products.In order to maintain the stability of the system, traditional W/O products often add a high proportion of heavy oil, which leads to stuffy, oily, and poor breathability on the face. Lightweight formulas are more prone to problems such as incomplete emulsification, storage stratification, and insufficient concealer.
At the same time, base makeup products should take into account even skin tone, modify pores, and cover imperfections. They must also ensure that the powder is evenly dispersed to avoid stuck powder, floating powder, and rubbing mud. The overall formula matching and raw material selection put forward extremely high requirements.In view of the above problems, we use the core raw materials to rationally match the composite emulsifying system, lightweight emollient oils, silicone skin-feeling raw materials and functional film-forming agents. Through the precise ratio of A, B, and C, we have created a high-quality water in Oil BB cream that is not heavy, concealer, and makeup. Not dull.
II.Formula structure analysis
The W/O BB cream adopts a three-phase step-by-step emulsification production process, with clear functions of each phase, accurate proportions, and uniform and stable overall system.
(1) Phase A
Phase A is a water-soluble system. As the core of the internal phase of W/O, it is mainly responsible for moisturizing and soothing, regulating the osmotic pressure of the system, and assisting in improving the stability of emulsification.
Phase A composition：
Water, glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium chloride.
The polyol moisturizing ingredients are gentle and skin-friendly, which can continuously replenish the surface moisture when the base makeup is attached to the skin, reduce the dryness and tightness caused by the powder, and realize that the base makeup is not pulled out and does not get stuck.The reasonable addition of sodium chloride effectively regulates the osmotic pressure of the aqueous phase, strengthens the oil-water interface membrane, improves the temperature resistance of the W/O system, and prevents problems such as water analysis, demulsification, and stratification in high and low temperature environments.
(2) Phase B
Phase B is the core sector of the entire BB cream, including W/O compound emulsifiers,
Silicone Elastomers, emollient oils, makeup powders, silicon additives and long-lasting film-forming agents, which determine the product's emulsifying effect, skin feeling, concealer strength and makeup-holding performance.
1. SMOICON®YX2727 (peg-10 dimethicone, addition 0.5%)
It is a silicone water in oil
Emulsifier specially designed for the W/O system, which has the dual effects of emulsifying and emollient.As a low-viscosity modified polydimethylsiloxane, it can be combined to form a stable emulsion, while acting as an emollient, giving the skin a smooth and soft touch.In addition, it can also enhance the stability of the silicone oil formula and avoid oil-water separation in the system. The addition of 0.5% is matched with MY989 to further strengthen the stability of the emulsifying system and make the oil-in-water structure firmer.
2. Film-forming agent
SMOICON® MY FA999 (polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate copolymer and
Isododecane, 6% added) is the core film-forming agent of this formula.As a crosslinked copolymer resin of acrylic acid and vinyl silicone oil, it can balance silky touch with powerful protection, and the skin experience is as smooth and soft as satin after the film is formed.Its ultra-flexible molecular network can effectively buffer daily friction, provide excellent anti-sweat and water resistance, and ensure long-lasting makeup on the makeup surface, without fear of rubbing mud and taking off makeup.The addition of 6% allows the base makeup to maintain a light skin feeling while having super water resistance, which is suitable for daily commuting, outdoor and other scenes.
3. PEOFA™MY989 (polyglyceryl 4 isostearate)
As the main emulsifier of water-in-oil of plant origin, the raw material is green, mild, non-irritating, widely compatible, and has excellent thermal stability.It can make the cream physique delicate and bright, create a transparent and natural makeup texture, avoid false whiteness and dullness of the base makeup, adapt to the needs of daily nude makeup, and rationally mix other emulsified raw materials, which can greatly improve the degree of oil-water fusion and stabilize the oil-in-water structure.
4. PEOFA™MY985 (polyglyceryl 2 dipolyhydroxystearate)
Natural non-ionic emulsifiers without EO groups, biodegradable, highly compatible with the skin, not limited by oil polarity and molecular weight, and extremely adaptable.It is combined with MY989 to further strengthen the tightness of the emulsifying system, improve the general heavy and sticky feeling of oil-in-water products, and make the makeup feel more refreshing and smooth, while maintaining the stability of the system for a long time.
High-quality silicone crosslinked gel, the skin feels delicate and dry, and comes with a soft mist powder to the touch, which can effectively soft-focus pores, weaken fine lines, and enhance the overall retouching power.At the same time, it can improve the dispersion of the powder, prevent the toner from agglomeration and agglomeration, make the BB cream more silky, and the makeup is obedient and natural. It is the core raw material for optimizing the advanced skin feeling of the base makeup.
(3) Phase C
Phase C belongs to the phase added after low temperature, which is mainly composed of color paste and mild preservatives.The color paste can be flexibly adjusted according to the needs of different skin tones to meet the needs of diversified markets; the anticorrosive system is gentle and safe, and the amount added is in compliance, which effectively inhibits the growth of microorganisms and extends the shelf life of the product. Long-term makeup will not cause a burden on the skin.
III.Finished product performance
·Through the scientific compatibility of A/B/C three-phase and the synergy of our raw materials, this W/OBB cream has excellent comprehensive performance.The system has strong stability, the composite W/O emulsifying system is equipped with osmotic pressure regulating components, and there is no stratification, no water analysis, and no deterioration in the high and low temperature environment, and the mass production stability is high.
·The makeup experience is comfortable and silky. Silicone raw materials and lightweight oils are matched with each other. The texture is soft and waxy and easy to push away. It has good ductility and fits the skin texture. There will be no problems such as stuck powder, floating powder, and rubbing mud.
·Outstanding long-lasting makeup holding ability, relying on a dense film-forming structure, effectively resist sweat and sebum erosion, slow down the oxidation rate of base makeup, long-term makeup surface is complete and clean, taking into account daily commuting, outdoor travel and multi-scene use, while moisturizing and moisturizing, to achieve high-quality
Makeup moisturizer effect.
IV.Self-developed raw material value
·It can be seen that our water in oil emulsifier, silicon skin-feeling raw materials, and makeup film-forming agents are targeted to meet the needs of base makeup formulas, with stable raw material performance, unified batches, and strong compatibility.
·The plant-based emulsifying system is mild and hypoallergenic. The silicone series of raw materials take into account the refreshing skin feeling and soft focus modification power. The special film-forming raw materials solve the pain points of easy makeup removal and non-abrasion resistance of the base makeup.
·The complete set of formulas has strong landing properties, and the moisture content, concealer degree, and film-forming strength can be flexibly adjusted according to the positioning, so as to quickly create differentiated products, effectively shorten the research and development cycle of new products, and reduce the cost of experimental commissioning.
V.Industry trends
The makeup industry continues to upgrade to gentle, functional, and long-lasting. With its unique structural advantages, the Water-in-Oil system will continue to be popular in BB cream, liquid foundation, isolation, sunscreen base makeup and other categories.High-quality emulsified raw materials, stable film-forming system, and skin-feeling adjustment raw materials will become the core keys to the upgrading of makeup formulas.
Conclusion
From the smooth construction of the A-phase moisturizing inner phase, to the deep combination of the B-phase self-developed emulsifying system and functional raw materials, to the fine blending of the C-phase in the late stage, this water in oil BB cream fully demonstrates the rationality of the three-phase step-by-step process and the hard-core strength of Mingya raw materials.The formula data is true and standardized, the system is balanced and stable, and the makeup effect is fully adapted to market demand.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
