I. The core mechanism of action of makeup remover oil: the dual synergistic logic of dissolving first and then emulsifying
1.1 Similar and soluble, use oil-soluble oil to complete the peeling of makeup dirt
Makeup remover oil uses oil as the base of the formula, relying on the physical properties of mutual solubility between oils and fats. In the use scenario of dry hands and face, during the massage and rubbing process, the oil-phase ingredients can penetrate into the gaps in the skin pores, firmly wrapping waterproof sunscreen, makeup foundation, and waxy lip glaze, and completely dissolving the makeup dirt attached to the surface of the skin.If the dissolving capacity of the oil substrate is insufficient, no matter how good the performance of the subsequent emulsifying system is, the effect of completely removing makeup cannot be achieved.
1.2 The surfactant is emulsified and wrapped to realize that the oily water can be rinsed
Relying only on grease to dissolve dirt, complete cleaning cannot be completed.If there is no surfactant involved, the oil phase that dissolves the makeup will continue to adhere to the surface of the skin, and the water will not be able to take away the oil at all, so there will be unclean washing, acne and closed mouth. At this time, the emulsification and wrapping process plays a decisive role.
Surfactants act as a bridge between water and oil. When they are stained with water, the emulsifiers inside the formula quickly come into play. The large oil droplets that were originally wrapped in a lot of makeup dirt are disassembled into countless tiny hydrophilic oil beads, so that the oil phase can be evenly dispersed into the water body, and the oil that was originally insoluble in water is transformed into particles that can be taken away by water, which is refreshing and residue-free after rinsing.
II. The three major raw material sectors of makeup remover oil, each performing its own duties to build a complete formula framework
2.1 Oil system: the core skeleton of makeup remover formula
The grease raw materials available on the market can be roughly divided into three categories: mineral oil, vegetable oil, and synthetic esters.Mineral oil has outstanding cost-effective advantages and strong ability to dissolve makeup, but some users will feedback that the texture is too heavy; vegetable oils are naturally skin-friendly and have a certain moisturizing and maintenance effect, but formula development needs to focus on antioxidant to avoid the risk of irritation caused by oxidative deterioration; synthetic esters have a light texture, refreshing skin feeling, and are not easy to produce stuffy skin problems. It is the best choice for products that pursue a light and light experience, but some synthetic esters need to pay attention to the risk of acne.
2.2 Emulsifier system: the key switch that determines the cleaning effect
OILREE®MY 945-B PEG-20 GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE is a hydrophilic emulsifier in the form of a transparent liquid. As a surfactant, it can build a stable emulsion structure, so that the oil phase, the aqueous phase and various active substances in the formula can be evenly mixed, and the stability of the entire formula system can be improved.In some formulation systems, co-debugging with Bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate 2 can further optimize the smooth feeling of product application and reduce the risk of formula stratification.
OILREE®MY XL277 is composed of a combination of PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE and POLYGLYCERYL-2 LAURATE. The two components complement each other and have excellent emulsifying properties. It can efficiently disintegrate all kinds of grease and dirt and waterproof makeup with high adhesion.The raw material itself has low irritation, can maintain the integrity of the skin barrier, sensitive skin formula, and special scenes such as eye and lip makeup remover can be adapted, while taking into account cleansing, moisturizing, and silky skin feeling after application.
OILREE®MY 907 PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, it is an emollient raw material that can be dispersed by water.Adding it to the epigenetic cleansing formula can supplement the oil components, optimize the skin feeling of the product, become more natural and smooth, and will not negatively affect the foam performance. It can also be used for the solubilization of essential oils and active ingredients.The raw materials come with a certain cleansing strength. They are used as liposuction agents in shampoo, bath liquid and other care products, and makeup remover aquatic products can also be added for use.
OILREE®MY 943 SORBETH-30 TETRAOLEATE, has good compatibility with a large number of oils, flexible formula combination, can build a delicate and uniform emulsifying system, overall gentle, safe and low irritation, makeup remover oil, makeup remover bubble, makeup remover cream and other products can be used directly.
2.3 Auxiliary system: control product stability and skin feeling
A complete set of formulas cannot only rely on oils and emulsifiers. The auxiliary system is the finishing touch for regulating stability and skin feeling. Polyols, antioxidants, and preservatives all belong to this sector.
Polyols act as a bridge between the two phases of oil and water, while regulating the skin feeling of the formula.Highly polar polyols include glycerol and propylene glycol, which act as phase behavior regulators to help the oil-water two-phase complete emulsification faster, while absorbing trace amounts of moisture inside the formula, improving the stability of the formula in a low temperature environment, and inhibiting the occurrence of stratification.The heavy moisturizing raw materials, such as Peg 40 hydrogenated castor oil, can enhance the moisturizing feeling on the surface of the skin after the makeup remover is completed, adjust the overall viscosity of the product, balance the skin tightness caused by excessive refreshing, and find a balance between cleansing power and comfort in use.
Antioxidant and anticorrosive can also not be ignored. Vegetable oils account for a high proportion of makeup remover formulas. Antioxidants are equivalent to the preservatives of the formula, which delay the rancidity of oils and avoid odors and irritating substances.After the makeup remover oil is emulsified in water, it will be transformed into an oil-in-water system. The aqueous environment is prone to the growth of microorganisms, and it needs to be matched with an appropriate anticorrosive system.Some formulas will also add a small amount of Isopropyl myristate to improve the overall application spreadability and reduce the sticky and heavy feeling of the oil phase.
III.The core technical difficulties and avoidance ideas of the makeup remover oil formula
3.1 The HLB value matches the polarity of the grease
The grease system gives priority to lightweight oils with high polarity and low molecular weight to enhance the ability to dissolve makeup, and composes vegetable oils or mineral oils according to the positioning; the emulsifying system adopts a compound formula of low HLB oleophilic emulsifiers with high HLB hydrophilic emulsifiers, so as to get excellent makeup-dissolving strength and refreshing washing experience at the same time.
If the overall polarity of the oil is low, but an emulsifier with high HLB is used, the compatibility of the oil and the emulsifier deteriorates, and the material is prone to turbidity and layering; on the contrary, if all low HLB oleophilic emulsifiers are used, it is difficult to complete the phase transition after encountering water, and a heavy oily film remains on the surface of the skin after rinsing, and it is easy to suffocate acne in the future.
3.2 Avoid the phenomenon of agglomeration of emulsifiers
Inside the pure oil system, nonionic emulsifier molecules can easily gather with each other to form large particles, which can make the material appear turbid and whitish, or translucent, which directly affects the appearance and emulsifying properties of the product.
IV. Reference for the selection of raw materials in different makeup remover scenarios
Traditional makeup remover oil pursues efficient removal of waterproof foundation and sunscreen, and has a high proportion of oil. Formula development gives priority to oil solubility. With a complex emulsifying system, OILREE®MY 943 can be used directly as the core emulsified raw material, and it is highly adaptable to various oils.
Eye and lip makeup remover products, the skin mucosa is more fragile and demanding on irritation. It is not suitable for a single emulsified component with high irritation. The OILREE®MY XL277 complex ligand system is very suitable. The two components work together to ensure the dissolving ability of makeup while being gentle, which can reduce the risk of tingling and redness around the eyes.
Double continuous phase makeup remover oil is a category with a high degree of popularity in the current market. It is between the oily phase and the aqueous phase. It is not heavy to use, and the emulsification speed is fast in case of water. The emulsifying complex formula scheme requires higher requirements. It requires a precise ratio of oleophilic and hydrophilic emulsifiers to achieve a unique double continuous phase structure.
Conclusion
With the help of the combination and coordination of different emulsified raw materials, combined with the flexible adjustment of grease and auxiliary system, formulation engineers can refine makeup remover products adapted to market needs for different positioning.The value of raw materials is not just simply filling formula components, but also relying on their own performance to solve actual pain points and help brands create competitive makeup remover skin care products.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
