Introduction
“If you want to make high-end face creams and essence creams, which are mainly nourishing skin care products, you should choose OILREE®MY6813-it has a super ability to emulsify the oil phase, and it is not easy to deteriorate even if it exists.If you want to make refreshing products such as water-sensitive lotion and moisturizing gel, OILREE®MY6813-20 is very suitable. It is convenient to dissolve in water, and it can be used with other raw materials, and the upper face is not sticky.Simply put, for a long-lasting, stable, moisturizing and thick texture, look for MY6813. For flexible adaptation and light skin feeling, choose MY6813-20-the molecular structure and appearance of the two of them are different, and they have their own uses in cosmetic formulas. , No one can replace anyone.”
MY6813 VS MY6813-20
MY6813 (INCI name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and MY6813-20 (INCI name: peg-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate).Both of them belong to the methylglucose ester
Oil in water emulsifier. Whether it is mixing oil and water, dispersing raw materials, or dissolving insoluble ingredients, they are very good at it, and they are not irritating to the skin, and they get along well with the skin. Also very harmonious.Because of the ingredients, the appearance is different: one is a particle and the other is a paste, so the difference is quite obvious in terms of performance, application scenarios, and whether it matches other formula raw materials.Understanding the differences between the two of them, you can accurately pick the right raw materials when doing cosmetic research and development.
Let's talk about the molecular structure first. MY6813 has not been modified by PEG. The molecular chain is mainly glucose group and stearate group.The stearate group is naturally oil-loving, so it fits well with the oil-phase raw materials. The glucose group can bind to water to ensure the basic emulsification balance. Overall, it is more inclined to help the oil and water merge, and it mainly relies on the oil side to exert force, and it can be well matched with all kinds of oils and fats.MY6813-20 is different. It adds PEG-20. There are more fragments of PEG-20 in the molecular chain, and it suddenly becomes water-loving-although there are still glucose groups and stearate groups, the overall molecule is more polar. It can not only dissolve in water, but also has wider compatibility with various raw materials.Just because the structure is a little different, the two of them will have different application directions in terms of solubility, emulsification direction and skin feeling on the face.
Looking at the solubility and appearance, MY6813 is a light yellow particle at a room temperature of 25℃. It cannot be dissolved by throwing it in water, but if it is put in mineral oils, vegetable oils, and synthetic esters, which are commonly used in cosmetics, it will melt quickly. .When making a formula, it has to be mixed with oil to heat and melt, and then mixed with the aqueous phase to emulsify, so it is more suitable for those formulas with relatively high oil content and suitable for oil-in-water systems.And because MY6813-20 has fragments of PEG-20, it is particularly hydrophilic. It is a yellow paste at room temperature, which can be dissolved in water and can be used with oil.There is no need to heat it with the oil specifically, and it can be emulsified directly by adding it to the aqueous phase. It is much more flexible to operate, especially for formulas with low oil content or mainly relying on water as the base, it is very convenient to use it.
Speaking of emulsifying ability, MY6813 has a great ability to wrap the oil and keep it stable.For example, to make a nourishing cream with an oil content of more than 30%, it can form a dense protective film on the surface of the oil droplets to prevent the oil droplets from gathering together and layering.The emulsified product has a thick and full texture. Whether it is placed in a room temperature or a low temperature environment, it is not easy to break, nor is it easy to precipitate oil, especially emulsified mineral oil and vegetable oil, which are relatively high viscosity oils, have better results.The adaptability of MY6813-20 is even stronger, because it can be combined with water and oil. It can not only emulsify common oils and fats, but also live in peace with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, as well as various functional additives.The product emulsified with it has a refreshing and light texture. It is quickly absorbed when applied to the face and will not be slimy. It is more suitable for emulsifying low-viscosity oils such as isopropyl palmitate and cyclosiloxane. Refreshing skin care products rely on it.
In terms of skin feeling and safety, MY6813 can make the product particularly moisturizing to use.After being applied to the skin, a thin protective film will be formed, which can lock in moisture without loss, and the moisturizing effect can last for a long time. It is suitable for dry skin or skin care products used in autumn and winter.Moreover, its molecular structure is a bit similar to the lipid composition of the skin itself. It is in tune with the skin and will not irritate sensitive muscles. It is no problem to make skin care products exclusive to sensitive muscles.MY6813-20 because of the addition of PEG-20, it is easier to push away when applied to the skin and penetrates quickly. After use, the face is not oily and it is particularly refreshing. It is suitable for oily skin or skin care products used in summer.There is no need to worry about safety. It neither irritates the skin nor makes people allergic, and it is easy to degrade. It is also completely acceptable to use baby skin care products or products such as cleansing and shower gels that need to be washed off when used up.
In terms of compatibility and dosage with other formula raw materials, MY6813 is very compatible with oily raw materials, such as
Glyceryl oleate and
Hydrogenated castor oil, which can not only make the emulsifying system more stable, but also make the product's moisturizing effect better.It does not need to be added too much to the formula, a low dosage is enough, it can have a good emulsifying effect, and it can also help control the cost of the formula.The raw materials of MY6813-20 have a wider application circle. They can not only get along well with hydrophilic raw materials such as glycerin and propylene glycol, but also with cationic ingredients such as Amino silicone emulsio. Add it when making conditioner, which can both emulsify and stabilize the formula.Its dosage will be a little more than that of MY6813. Although it is added a little more, it can make the texture and skin feel of the product better. When making high-end skin care products, it is right to choose it.
In terms of storage and processing, MY6813 is granular, which is very worry-free to store-as long as it is sealed and placed in a cool and dry place, it is not easy to absorb moisture and clump, and the shelf life is 1 year.During processing, it has to be heated to 50-55℃ (which is exactly the temperature at which it melts) to turn it into a liquid, which is suitable for the traditional high-temperature emulsification process.MY6813-20 is a paste, which must be sealed when stored, otherwise the water will harden when it evaporates.It is suitable for low-temperature emulsification processes. Active ingredients such as vitamin C and polypeptides that fail as soon as they are heated can also retain their efficacy and will not be wasted.
In terms of cost and application scenarios, MY6813 is controllable because it adds less and the cost of raw materials is controllable. It is suitable for popular skin care product brands that care about cost and want to ensure the stability of basic emulsification. It is suitable for long-lasting nourishing and deeply moisturizing creams and body creams.Although MY6813-20 is slightly added, it can be used in more scenarios, especially for high-end skin care products-such as essence milk with a lot of active ingredients, the main refreshing and burden-free sensitive muscle gel, and even can be used as a conditioner and hand cream. It has a wide range of applications.
In general, OILREE®MY6813 is better at emulsifying the oil phase, stabilizing storage, and nourishing the skin, while OILREE®MY6813-20 is better at dissolving in water, matching raw materials, and refreshing the skin.The former is more suitable for skin care products that are oily and need long-lasting nourishment, such as moisturizing creams and anti-wrinkle essence creams for autumn and winter; the latter can be used in skin care products that are less oily and refreshing, as well as various personal care products, such as summer moisturizing lotions, baby body lotions, and conditioners.
Therefore, if you want to make oily, long-lasting, stable and nourishing products when making formulas, you should give priority to OILREE®MY6813; if you want to add a lot of active ingredients, refresh the skin, or use a low-temperature emulsification process, then OILREE®MY6813-20 is definitely more suitable.The two of them are complementary partners in cosmetic raw materials, and together they can meet different formula needs, providing many options for skin care product research and development.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
