At present, the skin care market for sensitive skin has ushered in explosive growth, and consumers have increasingly stringent requirements for the gentleness and safety of skin care products. As the core of skin care products, the scientific nature of the raw materials directly determines whether the product is suitable for the fragile skin barrier of sensitive muscles.Combined with industry application practice, analyze the advantages of the combination of three raw materials adapted to sensitive skin, and sort out the non-adapted collocation that needs to be avoided, so as to provide a reference for the research and development and production of skin care products for sensitive skin.
Coco-glucoside + Polyglyceryl-2 sesquicaprylate
In skin care formulas for sensitive skin, the gentleness of cleansing and basic emulsification is the first line of defense to protect the skin barrier. The combination of coco-glucoside and polyglyceryl-2 sesquicaprylate, with its natural gentle properties and excellent synergistic effects, has become the preferred combination for cleansing and basic moisturizing sensitive skin products.
As a nonionic surfactant,
Coco glucoside is made from natural coconut oil and glucose as raw materials. It is low-irritating and can gently dissolve dirt and excess oil on the surface of the skin when cleaning. At the same time, it will not destroy the sebum membrane on the surface of the skin. It is suitable for the cleaning needs of sensitive skin, dry sensitive skin and other fragile skin types. It is a classic choice for cleansing raw materials for sensitive skin.As an oleophilic nonionic surfactant of plant origin, polyglyceryl-2 sesquicaprylate has multiple effects of
Oil in water emulsifier, solubilizing, moisturizing and moisturizing. Its molecular structure is compatible with the skin and can stabilize the oil-water system of the product, making the formula texture more uniform, bringing a smooth skin feeling when applied, and no irritation to the skin and hair, no risk of acne, even infant skin can be adapted.
When the two are used together, the gentle cleansing properties of coco-glucoside complement the emulsifying and moisturizing effects of polyglyceryl-2 sesquicaprylate. In cleansing products, a balance of cleansing power and gentleness can be achieved, and the skin is not tight or dry after cleansing.In emollient emulsions and creams, it can be used as a basic emulsifying system to evenly blend the oil phase and water phase components to enhance the skin feel and stability of the product.
The core problem of sensitive muscles is that the skin barrier function is damaged, which is prone to redness, dry itching, tingling and other problems. Therefore, in the formula design, in addition to ensuring gentleness, strengthening the skin barrier and improving the stability of the formula have become the key.The combination of Cetearyl olivate or Sorbitan olivate and Glyceryl oleate, starting from the dual dimensions of emulsification and stability maintenance and barrier repair, has become the core matching solution for sensitive skin creams, lotions, and sunscreen products.
Cetearyl olivate or Sorbitan olivate is a compound of nonionic surfactants derived from olive oil. Its unique molecular structure can form a liquid crystal structure similar to the stratum corneum of the skin. While exerting an efficient emulsifying effect, it can also directly act on the skin barrier, replenish skin lipids, enhance the skin barrier's water-locking ability and ability to resist external stimuli, and relieve the dryness and fragility of sensitive muscles from the root cause.At the same time, the raw material can form a delicate and uniform texture of the product during the emulsification process, enhance the silky feeling when applied, and there is no sticky feeling, and the skin feeling experience is excellent.
Glyceryl oleate, as a natural nonionic surfactant and emollient, has extremely low irritation and has both emulsifying and moisturizing effects. It can assist Cetearyl olivate or Sorbitan olivate to improve the stability of the emulsifying system and make the role of
Emulsifier more fully realized. At the same time, its moisturizing properties can replenish moisture for the skin and form a synergy with the barrier repair effect of the former, making the formula more effective in maintaining a stable skin state and relieving sensitive discomfort.When the two are used together, it not only solves the problem of emulsification and stability of sensitive skin formulas, but also takes into account the skin care needs of barrier repair, and is suitable for the research and development of a variety of high-efficacy sensitive skin products, especially in anti-allergic, moisturizing, and sunscreen products. It has become the core choice of formula design.
In skin care products for sensitive skin, the solubilizing treatment of insoluble ingredients such as flavors and active ingredients is a difficult point in formula research and development. If the solubilizing raw materials are not selected properly, it can easily cause skin irritation. The combination of peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil and cetearyl olivate or sorbitan olivate has achieved both high-efficiency solubilizing and gentle properties, and has become a high-quality solubilizing and emulsifying combination of functional products for sensitive skin.
As a classic nonionic solubilizer, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil has the characteristics of low addition and high solubilization efficiency. It can quickly dissolve insoluble substances such as flavors, essential oils, and fat-soluble active ingredients, and it can keep the product transparent and enhance the appearance and experience of the product.At the same time, the raw material has good compatibility with a variety of raw materials such as acrylic thickeners, and it is not easy to cause problems such as layering and turbidity in the formula. It can improve the overall stability of the formula, and the skin feels soft, smooth, and non-sticky after application. It is suitable for sensitive skin products. Skin feeling requirements.
Match it with cetearyl olivate or sorbitan olivate. The former is responsible for efficiently solubilizing insoluble ingredients, while the latter assumes the role of emulsification, stability maintenance and barrier repair. The two work together to not only solve the problem of dissolving insoluble ingredients in the sensitive muscle formula, but also ensure the gentleness and stability of the formula, and at the same time it can bring certain moisturizing and repairing effects to the skin.This combination is widely used in sensitive skin essence, toner, and fragrance-based emollient products. It can not only meet the functional needs of the product, but also protect the skin barrier of sensitive skin, and become the mainstream choice for solubilizing sensitive skin formulas.
Note: Sodium lauryl sulfate + Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, this combination is highly irritating and is not suitable for sensitive skin formula
In the collocation of cosmetic raw materials, not all combinations of raw materials can be adapted to sensitive skin. Some raw materials will be significantly more irritating due to their own characteristics or the synergy after the collocation. The combination of sodium lauryl sulfate and peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil is a typical non-adapted collocation.
As an anionic surfactant, sodium lauryl sulfate has strong cleansing power and foaming properties. It is widely used in ordinary care products, but the raw material is highly irritating. It is easy to excessively peel off the sebum film on the surface of the skin when cleaning, destroying the skin barrier. For sensitive muscles with impaired barrier function, it can easily cause allergic reactions such as redness, dry itching, and tingling after use, and even aggravate sensitive symptoms.Even when combined with
Peg 40 hydrogenated castor oil, it cannot neutralize its strong irritation. After the combination of the two, although the solubilizing and foaming effects can be improved to a certain extent, the irritation has not been reduced. On the contrary, it will cause double damage to sensitive muscles due to excessive cleansing power.
The core principle of sensitive skin formula is “gentle maintenance of stability and barrier repair”. The selection and matching of raw materials need to revolve around this principle, giving priority to raw materials of natural origin, low irritation, and good skin compatibility, while avoiding the use of strong irritating raw materials with other raw materials.
The above three combinations of raw materials suitable for sensitive muscles are all designed around the three core needs of “gentleness, stability, and repair”. Through the synergy of different raw materials, they not only solve the technical problems of emulsification, solubilization, and cleansing in formula research and development, but also take into account the skin barrier repair needs of sensitive muscles, which has become a classic match in the industry.For the combination of highly irritating raw materials, everyone needs to be cautious when using them.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
