These three raw materials are the core raw materials of the cosmetics industry and play an irreplaceable role in skin texture regulation, conditioning and nourishing, and formula stability.Their molecular structure differences have created their own unique characteristics and application scenarios：
Myristyl Myristate: A long-chain fatty acid ester compound formed by the esterification reaction of myristic alcohol and myristic acid.
Behentrimonium chloride: quaternary ammonium salt
Cationic Conditioner, the molecular structure contains long-chain behenyls and positively charged trimethylammonium ions.
Water in Oil Emulsion: Amphiphilic compounds with both oleophilic and hydrophilic molecular structures. Typical representatives include OILREE® MY935 (peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearate) and PEOFA™ MY985 (polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate).
The unique chemical structure gives them exclusive properties：
Structural differences
·The molecular chain length of Myristyl Myristate is moderate, and it has a single ester bond structure, which is simple and regular.Compared with
CETYL PALMITATE, its molecular chain is shorter, its molecular weight is smaller, and it spreads faster on the surface of the skin without causing heavy residues. Compared with
TRIBEHENIN, it lacks a complex triglyceride structure and has better compatibility with other raw materials, especially in multi-component makeup formulas. Outstanding performance.
·Behentrimonium chloride has the characteristics of long carbon chain and positive charge. The long carbon chain structure enhances its adsorption and adhesion to the surface of hair and skin, while the positive charge can form a stable combination with the negatively charged stratum corneum and hair scales.Compared with
Stearalkonium chloride, the carbon chain is longer, the adsorption capacity is stronger, and the conditioning effect is longer lasting. Due to its structural characteristics, it is less irritating than short-chain cationic conditioners, and even people with sensitive muscles can use it with confidence.
·The structure of Water in Oil
Emulsifier is different: MY935 uses the PEG chain segment as the hydrophilic group, and the dimerhydroxystearate part is the oleophilic group. The length of the PEG chain gives it a certain space for water-soluble regulation. MY985 uses polyglycerol as the hydrophilic core, does not contain EO groups, the structure is closer to natural substances, and the biocompatibility is better.Compared with oil in water emulsifiers, the lipophilicity is more prominent, which can better wrap the oil phase components and lock in moisture and nutrients.
Thermal stability and processing adaptability
·Myristyl Myristate is a white granular solid with good thermal stability, suitable for the processing temperature of ordinary cosmetics (80-100℃), and is not easy to decompose and deteriorate.Its melting point is moderate, can be added in the cooling stage of the formula, without high temperature heating, can retain its original characteristics to the greatest extent, has good compatibility with most cosmetic raw materials, and will not cause problems such as stratification and agglomeration.
·Behentrimonium chloride has different content specifications（25%、50%、80%）， There is a slight difference in thermal stability.Among them, the solid granular type (the solvent is Cetearyl Glucoside) has better thermal stability, can withstand the processing temperature of hair care products (70-90℃), and will not lose activity during high temperature emulsification, nor will it have adverse reactions with other ingredients; liquid products need to control the processing temperature not to exceed 80℃ to avoid solvent volatilization affecting product performance.
·Excellent high temperature stability of water in Oil Emulsion: MY935 can be stable at high temperatures, suitable for the processing temperature of sunscreen, makeup and other products, and can still maintain emulsifying activity during long-term high temperature stirring. The thermal oxidation stability of MY985 is good, even at higher temperatures, it is not easy to hydrolyze, suitable for use in infant care products and medical-grade cosmetics that require high temperature sterilization, which can ensure the stability of the product during the shelf life.
Mechanical properties and sensory experience
·Myristyl Myristate has a unique rod-shaped structure, which can significantly reduce the hardness of cream products and change the product from a solid paste to an easy-to-apply soft texture.Its skin feels refreshing and non-sticky, absorbs quickly, and can quickly penetrate into the surface of the skin to eliminate the whitening phenomenon after application, especially when added to makeup creams and lightweight lotions, it can bring a natural and smooth experience without affecting the concealer and makeup effect of the product.
·Behentrimonium chloride has a strong adsorption capacity and can form a uniform protective film on the surface of the hair and skin. This film can reduce the friction between the hair and improve the combing properties of the hair. It can be easily combed even in wet hair, reducing entanglement and knotting; at the same time, it can fill the gaps in the stratum corneum of the skin, make the skin softer and more delicate, and reduce the tightness of cleansing products after use, especially suitable for dry skin and damaged hair.
·Water in Oil Emulsion has excellent emulsifying ability, which can disperse water into tiny droplets and evenly distribute it in the oil phase to form a stable milky system, making the product texture as delicate as cream, good spreading, and no graininess when applied.Some products also have the ability to disperse solid substances such as toner and sunscreens, which can make the color of makeup products more uniform, and the sunscreens of sunscreens are more densely distributed, enhancing the use effect and sensory experience of the products.
Chemical stability
·Myristyl Myristate has good chemical stability and is not easy to react with acids, alkalis, electrolytes and other substances. It can exist stably in cosmetic formulas with a pH value of 4-8.It will not change the characteristics of the product due to compounding, and is suitable for use in cosmetics of various skin types, including acidic skin rejuvenation products and alkaline cleansing products.
·Behentrimonium chloride is stable under neutral and weakly acidic conditions and can maintain conditioning activity for a long time, but if it is in a strongly alkaline environment (pH value>9), the quaternary ammonium salt groups in its molecular structure may decompose, reducing the conditioning effect.It needs to avoid contact with strong anionic surfactants, otherwise it will precipitate and affect the stability of the product, but it has good compatibility with nonionic and zwitterionic thickeners, which can synergistically improve the consistency and skin feel of the product.
·The chemical stability of water in Oil Emulsion is excellent: MY935 is compatible with various active ingredients and can withstand the effects of electrolytes. It is suitable for cosmetics with high concentrations of active ingredients or minerals. MY985 is biodegradable and non-irritating to the skin. The polyglycerol group in its molecular structure can also enhance the moisturizing ability of the product and adapt to products of special skin types. Even long-term use will not cause a burden on the skin.
Application scenario
These three raw materials have their own advantages in application：
1. Myristyl Myristate (safety level 2-3 green) is suitable for moisturizing cream, lotion, foundation, conditioner and other products, the recommended dosage is 1-5%.In skin care products, it can improve the skin feeling and absorption speed of the product; in makeup, it can optimize the ductility and durability of the product; in hair care products, it can reduce the dryness and frizz of the hair and make the hair smoother.
2. Behentrimonium chloride (green safety grade) is mainly used in hair care products such as conditioners, hair masks, and shampoos. It can also be added to high-end face creams and body creams. The recommended dosage is 1-5%.In hair care products, it can enhance the smoothness and ease of care of hair, repair damaged hair, and in skin care products, it can improve the softness of the skin and enhance the moisture of the product.
3. Water in Oil Emulsion (mostly Level 1 green safety level) is widely used in waterproof sunscreen, anhydrous makeup, foundation cream, baby ointment and other products, the recommended dosage is 0.5-5%.In sunscreen products, it can improve the waterproof performance and sunscreen durability of the product.In makeup, it can make the makeup effect more obedient and not easy to take off. In baby care products, it can gently moisturize the skin and reduce external irritation.
Precautions for use
·Myristyl Myristate needs to avoid excessive addition, otherwise it may cause the product to feel sticky, especially in refreshing products used in summer, the dosage needs to be strictly controlled at 1-3%.It should be stored in a cool and dry place to prevent moisture absorption and agglomeration. If agglomeration occurs due to improper storage, it can be slightly heated and dissolved before use without affecting the effect of the product.
·When using Behentrimonium chloride, you need to pay attention to the choice of solvent type. Ethanol solvent-based products are suitable for liquid hair care products, and cetearyl alcohol solvent-based products are suitable for cream conditioners and hair masks.It is not compatible with strong anionic surfactants (such as sodium lauryl sulfate), so avoid using it in the same formula, otherwise it will affect the stability and use effect of the product.
·When using Water in Oil Emulsifier, you need to pay attention to the ratio with other emulsifiers. Some products (such as MY935) need to be used in combination with co-emulsifiers (such as sorbitan sesquioleic acid ester) to achieve the best emulsifying effect and stability.During the processing process, it is necessary to stir and dissolve fully to ensure that the oil phase and the water phase are completely fused, so as to avoid problems such as stratification and effluent. At the same time, the oil ratio of the formula needs to be controlled to avoid the product being too heavy due to excessive oil phase.
Due to structural differences, these three cosmetic raw materials play an important role in different fields.With the continuous development of the cosmetics industry, their application scenarios will be further expanded, such as the application of efficacy-based skin care products and medical beauty repair products will gradually increase.When choosing raw materials, it is necessary to comprehensively consider the product type, formula requirements, skin type and hair type of the target population, sensory experience and other factors, and rationally adjust the dosage and compound formula plan to achieve the best product results.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
