Synthetic oils and natural oils
In the cosmetics and personal care industry, oil-based raw materials have always been the cornerstone of the formula system-from the softening and moisturizing of face creams to the film-forming stability of sunscreen, from the makeup-holding power of makeup to the smoothness of care, the choice of oil directly determines the core experience and quality of the product.For a long time, natural vegetable oils have occupied the minds of consumers with the label “natural and plant”, but with the iteration of formulation technology,
Synthetic oils and fats have gradually been upgraded to the core of the formulation, and the performance of natural oils and fats has been optimized through molecular engineering.This article will deeply disassemble the core differences between synthetic oils and natural and traditional oils from the perspective of formula engineering, and analyze their technical advantages and application scenarios.
I.Essential difference
To understand the performance differences between the two types of greases, we must first clarify their essential differences.
-Natural/traditional oils and fats: mostly derived from plants (such as olive oil, shea butter) or animal fats, the core component is a complex mixture of triglycerides, the composition is affected by the origin, climate, harvest season and other factors, and it is naturally uncontrollable.
-Synthetic oils and fats: through chemical processes such as esterification, hydrogenation, and structural recombination, specific molecular structures (with fatty acid esters as the core) are constructed in a targeted manner, usually single or highly controllable pure molecules, realizing “customized on demand” raw material properties.
This essential difference directly determines the different performance of the two in core indicators such as emollient, ductility, closure, and skin feeling, and has also spawned the performance upgrade of synthetic oils to natural oils.
II.The core advantages of synthetic oils and fats
Compared with natural oils and fats, the core value of synthetic oils and fats lies in breaking through the performance boundaries of natural raw materials through molecular design.
1. Structural designability
-Adjust the length of the carbon chain: short carbon chains (such as
Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate) bring a lightweight and quickly absorbed skin feeling, while long carbon chains can achieve moisturizing and closed skin care effects.
-Introduction of branched chain structure: branched chain fatty acid esters (such as ethylhexyl stearate) can significantly improve spreading and dryness, avoiding the greasy feeling of traditional oils.
-Design polarity gradient: By adjusting the molecular polarity, optimize the compatibility with flavors, sunscreens, and active substances, and solve the dissolution problems of complex formulas.
This kind of designability allows formulators to no longer be limited by the inherent properties of natural raw materials, but can customize the grease properties according to product positioning.For example, our NSOAF™ series of synthetic oils are high-performance raw materials developed based on this logic: IPM (isopropyl myristate) and IPP (isopropyl palmitate) are classic small molecule high-polar oils that can be used as skin penetrants and lipophilic active substance solvents, suitable for refreshing formulas such as essence and sunscreen.2EHS (ethylhexyl stearate), with its excellent spreadability and dry touch, has become the preferred raw material for silicone oil replacement and refreshing skin care.
2. Oxidation stability
Natural oils generally contain unsaturated fatty acids (such as linoleic acid and oleic acid). These ingredients are prone to oxidation reactions under air, light, and high temperature conditions, which affect the senses of the product, may also irritate the skin, and shorten the shelf life of the product.Therefore, natural oil formulas often need to add more antioxidants, which increases the complexity and safety risks of the formula.
Synthetic oils and fats solve the oxidation problem from the root cause through molecular design: double bonds are eliminated through hydrogenation processes, or saturated and branched chain structures are used to reduce the degree of unsaturation of oils and fats, and the antioxidant stability is significantly improved.For example, saturated esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, etc., almost no oxidation and rancidity occurs, and no need to add a lot of additional antioxidants, which can achieve a longer shelf life, while reducing the pressure on the anticorrosive system, making the formula safer and more stable, especially suitable for sunscreen, makeup and other products that require long-term storage.
3. Skin feeling engineering
-Lightweight and non-greasy: small molecule esters (such as isopropyl myristate) can quickly spread and penetrate, bringing a refreshing skin feeling.
-Dry touch: branched chain esters (such as ethylhexyl stearate) can achieve a dry and smooth touch, replace silicone oil, and adapt to silicone-free formula.
-Rapid absorption: Highly polar synthetic esters can be quickly absorbed by the skin, without residual greasy feeling, and are suitable for refreshing products such as essences and lotions.
This skin-feeling ability makes synthetic oils the core choice for high-end skin care, makeup, and refreshing formulas.
4. Formula compatibility
Modern cosmetics formulas are becoming more and more complex: sunscreen products need to dissolve high-content sunscreens, effective skin care needs to be compatible with a variety of active substances, makeup needs to disperse toner and oil, and care products need to be adapted to the surfactant system.Due to the fixed structure of natural oils, their solubility and emulsification adaptability are often limited.
The synthetic grease has better solubility and system adaptability through polarity design：
-It can dissolve flavors, sunscreens, and lipophilic active substances to enhance the transdermal absorption of active ingredients.
-It performs more stably in the emulsifying system, and is compatible with various emulsifying systems such as oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O).
-It has good matching with surfactants, quaternary ammonium salts and other ingredients, and is suitable for many types of products such as care and makeup remover.
5. Low odor and low interference
Natural oils often have an inherent plant odor (such as olive oil and shea butter), and there are more yellowish liquids in color.
Synthetic oils are mostly colorless and transparent liquids, almost odorless or low-odor, which can create a clear essence or a high-fragrance body lotion. Synthetic oils can be perfectly adapted.
III.Objectively look at limitations
1 . Differences in market perception: “Natural/plant origin" is still the core preference of consumers. Among the products that focus on “organic, green, and natural”, the acceptance of synthetic oils and fats is still lower than that of natural oils and fats.
2.Regulatory certification restrictions: Some international certifications (such as COSMOS Organic certification) have strict restrictions on synthetic ingredients, and natural oils are easier to pass relevant certifications.
3. Cost difference: The production cost of high-end bio-based synthetic oils and fats may be higher than that of ordinary natural oils, which poses certain challenges to the cost control of affordable products.；
4. Insufficient added value: Natural oils often contain trace active ingredients such as vitamins and phytosterols, which can bring additional skin care effects, while the core value of synthetic oils lies in basic properties and less additional activity.
IV.The two complement each other
1. The core application scenarios of synthetic grease
-Refreshing skin care: lotions, essences, gels, etc. need to be light, non-greasy, and quickly absorbed products.
-Products with high stability requirements: sunscreen, makeup, base makeup and other products that require long-term storage and antioxidant.
-High-end skin feeling design: high-end skin care and hair care products that focus on “silicon replacement, dry and smooth touch".
-Complex functional formula: an effective product with multiple active substances and high sunscreen content.
2. The core application scenarios of natural oils
-Natural/organic positioning products: mainly plant extracts, natural and gentle skin care, and care products.
-High value-added efficacy formula: products that need to use trace active ingredients (such as vitamins and sterols) in natural oils.
-Traditional classic formula: traditional skin care products with high consumer awareness and wide acceptance.
V.Conclusion
Synthetic oils are essentially an upgrade of the industry: from relying on the inherent properties of natural raw materials to customizing the properties of raw materials through molecular engineering, they bring more stable quality, better skin feeling, and wider adaptability to products.
For brands and formulators, it is necessary to scientifically match two types of raw materials based on product positioning and consumer needs to give full play to their core advantages: use synthetic oils to create the core performance of the product, use natural oils to strengthen the market value of the product, and ultimately bring consumers safer, more effective, and more comfortable beauty products.
As a professional supplier of synthetic oils and natural vegetable oil raw materials, we have always taken the needs of formulators as the core, and created NSOAF™ synthetic oils and VEGEFIERS™ natural vegetable oil series to provide the industry with high-performance, high-stability, and high-compatibility raw material solutions.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
