OILREE® MY OV-20 (OLETH-20) is a high-HLB non-ionic
Emulsifier added by natural oleols and ethylene oxide. It has the characteristics of strong parental structure, mild emulsification, high stability, smooth skin feeling and easy to extend. It breaks through the application limitations of traditional PEG emulsifiers and is widely penetrated into all categories of products such as makeup remover, sunscreen, cream lotion and makeup, and has become the core raw material of light emulsifying formula in Asian skin care system.
I.MY Molecular structure of OV-20
MY OV-20 belongs to oleyl alcohol nonionic surfactants. Its chemical nature is polyoxyethylene oleyl alcohol ether formed by the addition of Oleyl Alcohol and 20 moles of ethylene oxide (EO). The INCI name is OLETH-20, CAS No. 9004-98-2, HLB value 15.4, is a typical high HLB (O/W) type emulsifier.Its molecular structure exhibits the amphiphilic characteristics of hydrophobic single-chain + hydrophilic long-chain, which is the core source of adaptation to complex formulas.
From the point of view of the hydrophobic end, the hydrophobic group of OV-20 is a C18 unsaturated fatty chain derived from natural oleols, with a long-chain alkyl structure containing a double bond, which gives it strong grease compatibility.Compared with saturated fatty alcohol polyethers such as lauryl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, the unsaturated oleol chain can be compatible with lightweight ester oils such as IPM and ethylhexyl palmitate, and can also form a stable system with vegetable oils, silicone oils, and highly polar sunscreens.
Analyzed from the hydrophilic end, the long-chain polyoxyethylene (PEO) hydrophilic group composed of 20 ethylene oxide units makes OV-20 have excellent water solubility and strong hydrophilic ability.Compared with low-EO oleohydrin polyethers (such as OLETH-5, OLETH-10), OLETH-20's hydrophilic ability is significantly improved, and it can quickly disperse in the aqueous phase and form a stable hydration layer, which provides the core support for the construction of the O/W system.
II.Core formula characteristics
(1) Compatible with all grease systems, stable adaptation to complex oil phases
The most outstanding feature of OLETH-20 is broad-spectrum grease compatibility, which is derived from the structural advantages of natural oleohydric hydrophobic chains. It can form a stable compatibility with polar and non-polar oils and fats, and performs well in multi-grease composite systems.
In terms of adaptation of polar oils and fats, for polar oil phases such as vegetable oils (olive oil, tea seed oil), ester oils (IPM,
Isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate), and high-grade fatty alcohol, OV-20 can evenly disperse oil molecules through the similar compatibility principle of hydrophobic chains to avoid system stratification and oil analysis.In the adaptation of non-polar oils, for non-polar oil phases such as C13-14 isoalkanes, mineral oils, and cyclopentamethylene dimethyl siloxanes, the unsaturated long chains can flexibly wrap non-polar molecules to form a stable dispersion system, especially suitable for refreshing formulas.
(2) Gentle non-ionic emulsification, low irritation, suitable for sensitive muscles
From the point of view of the mechanism of action, the non-ionic structure prevents it from electrostatic adsorption with stratum corneum protein on the surface of the skin, reducing the damage to the skin barrier. At the same time, the hydrophobic chain derived from natural oleols is similar to the structure of skin sebum and can be fused with the sebum layer to reduce the irritation of the formula. Long-term use is not prone to redness, tingling, dryness and other problems.In the formulation application, it is combined with
Coco glucoside to build a gentle system.
(3) Excellent solubilization and dispersion, helping to make the system transparent and stable
With a high HLB value (15.4) and long-chain hydrophilic groups, OLETH-20 has the ability to solubilize, which can efficiently solubilize flavors, essential oils, fat-soluble active ingredients and other substances that are not soluble in water, and help the development of transparent and water-sensitive products.
In products such as transparent emulsified essence, water-sensitive makeup remover oil, and transparent sunscreen spray, Oleth-20 can evenly disperse the oil phase in the aqueous phase at a lower concentration (1%-3%) to form a clear and transparent system that is not layered for a long time, and solves the problem that traditional emulsifiers can easily cause product turbidity and precipitation.
III.Extended application of all categories: covering four scenarios of makeup remover, sunscreen, cream, and makeup
(1) Makeup remover products
In products such as makeup remover oil, makeup remover cream, and makeup remover, OLETH-20 can be used as the core emulsifier of the self-emulsifying system.
In the formula of makeup remover oil, OLETH-20 is used with an adjusted and efficient system. When applied with dry hands and face, it can quickly dissolve stubborn makeup such as lipstick, foundation, and eye shadow. After rinsing, there is no oily film residue and no tightness.In makeup remover ointment and makeup remover, OLETH-20 can adjust the viscosity and emulsification speed of the system, taking into account the cleansing power and gentleness, and adapt to the daily makeup remover needs of sensitive muscles.
(2) Sunscreen system
In sunscreen lotions, sunscreen sprays, sunscreen gels and other products, OLETH-20 is the key raw material for water-sensitive sunscreen formulas.
First of all, as an emulsifier, OLETH-20 can stably emulsify high-content oil-soluble sunscreens, prevent sunscreens from crystallizing and stratification, and improve system stability.Secondly, the dispersion effect can evenly disperse physical sunscreens, reduce the whitening and thickening problems caused by the agglomeration of sunscreens, and improve the skin tone adaptability of sunscreens.Finally, in terms of skin feeling, the spreading speed of sunscreen products can be improved.
(3) Cream lotion
In products such as makeup primer, body lotion, high-fat night cream, massage cream, etc., OLETH-20 is used as an auxiliary emulsifier and skin sensation regulator to optimize product texture and experience.
In high-oil night creams and massage creams, OLETH-20 can assist the main emulsifier to build a stable system, while reducing the heavy feeling of oil and improving ductility, making the product easy to push away, easy to absorb, and avoid stuffy skin.In refreshing body lotion and makeup primer, it can improve product fluidity, reduce pulling sensation, increase spreading speed, and form a lightweight moisturizing film that is suitable for oily and mixed skin types.In baby lotions and sensitive skin creams, it can reduce the irritation of the formula and enhance the gentleness. At the same time, it can improve the moisture of the product and protect fragile skin.
In addition, OLETH-20 can be compatible with polymer thickeners such as
Sebacic acid copolymer to build a stable gel emulsification system for transparent moisturizing gels, essence creams and other products, taking into account stability and refreshing skin feeling.
(4) Makeup products
In makeup products such as foundation cream, BB cream, eye shadow cream, blush cream, etc., OLETH-20 assumes the role of emulsifying, dispersing, and texture adjustment to improve makeup stability and sense of use.
In foundation milk and BB cream, OLETH-20 can emulsify the oils and moisturizing ingredients in the system, disperse the powder toner, prevent the powder from settling and agglomeration, and improve product stability. At the same time, it improves the texture of the foundation, making it smooth and easy to push away, obedient and not stuck in the powder, and improves the uniformity and durability of makeup.In eyeshadow cream and blush cream, oily toner can be wetted, the dispersion of toner can be improved, the color and chromaticity can be improved, and the texture of the cream can be adjusted at the same time to avoid being hard and easy to break, and the ease of use can be improved.
IV. Compatibility logic
1.Complex with anionic system
OLETH-20 can improve the stability of the system and reduce the irritation of some anionic systems.
In care products, it can be used for：
Pearlescent shampoo
Facial cleanser
Shower gel
2.Compatible with polymer thickening systems
OLETH-20 has good compatibility with most acrylic thickeners.
For example：
Carbomer
Acrylates Copolymer
Sodium acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Summary
OLETH-20 takes the natural amphiphilic molecular structure as the core. With its core characteristics, OLETH-20 breaks through the application limitations of traditional emulsifiers and penetrates widely into cosmetics in many fields such as makeup remover, sunscreen, cream lotion, and makeup.Driven by the industry trend of cleansing formula, gentle skin care, and multifunctional raw materials, OLETH-20 relies on the core advantages of natural origin, mild and low irritation, high adaptability, and multi-purpose use in one dose to continuously release the value of the formula.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
