I. The underlying foundation of long-lasting base makeup to solve the core pain points of card powder mottling
The vast majority of liquid foundations have problems with makeup removal and mottling, and the root cause lies in the uneven dispersion of inorganic pigment powders.The liquid foundation formula contains colored powders such as titanium dioxide and iron oxide. This kind of powder has a high density and can easily produce electrostatic agglomeration between molecules. as a key systemic ingredient, Oil in water emulsifier helps improve the compatibility and stability of powder in the formula, it will quickly precipitate and layer when left to store. After applying to the face, it accumulates on the nose, under the eyes, nasolabial folds and other skin lines. After two to three hours, there will be obvious powder stuck. After the oil and sweat are infiltrated, the color patches float directly on the surface of the skin, and the growth is greatly reduced when holding makeup.
In view of the problem of powder agglomeration, the mainstream solution is to add a special oil‑soluble dispersant, Mingya's OILREE® 1836N POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID. This product is a universal and efficient dispersing raw material for oil‑in‑water and oil‑in‑water liquid foundation.The molecular structure has both a long hydrophobic carbon chain and an active hydroxyl group. The hydrophobic carbon chain will be tightly adsorbed on the surface of the pigment powder to form an isolation film to offset the adsorption force between the powders; the hydroxyl group can blend with various oils and emulsified components in the formula system, so that the powder is evenly suspended inside the paste body, eliminating layered precipitation.
II.Balance the light skin feeling and the lasting power of makeup
After the powder dispersion problem is solved, the core of formula research and development falls on the construction of the emulsification system.Liquid foundation on the market is divided into two major systems, oil-in-water and oil-in-water. The two have their own shortcomings: the oil-in-water texture is light and moisturizing, but the waterproof and sweat-resistant properties are weak; the oil-in-water color-locking ability is outstanding, but it is easy to be heavy and stuffy, and it is easy to clog pores with makeup for a long time.The core direction of the upgrading of raw material technology in recent years is to neutralize the defects of the two types of systems by compounding emulsified raw materials, taking into account the breathable skin feeling and the ability to hold makeup throughout the day.
2.1 Oil-in-water long-lasting liquid foundation emulsification solution
OILREE® MY9200 is a combination of PEG-20 STEARATE and CETEARYL ALCOHOL. It is neutral and gentle. it is suitable for dry skin and mixed dry skin. It is a moisturizing long‑lasting liquid foundation.As the core component of nonionic emulsification, PEG-20 STEARATE has a moderate hydrophilic and oleophilic balance value. It can wrap the moisturizing phase of polyols in the formula and disperse evenly in the emollient oil base; CETEARYL ALCOHOL is a long‑chain fatty alcohol, which plays a role in thickening and stabilizing the structure of the cream. It enhances the smoothness of liquid foundation spreading and reduces the probability of mud clumping on the face.
Many highly moisturizing makeup-holding liquid foundations will add a lot of moisturizers such as glycerin and propylene glycol. Excessive water phase can easily destroy the emulsified structure and cause water-oil separation.Generally, GLYCERETH 26 will be introduced to enhance the upper limit of the water phase carrying capacity, lock in the moisturizing ingredients in the formula, and solve the common problem of tightness and dryness of the cheeks with makeup for a long time, while stabilizing the emulsified film layer and prolonging the adhesion of the base makeup. Aging.
2.2 Oil-in-water high-holding makeup liquid foundation emulsification solution
The high‑lasting matte liquid foundation created for oily skin and outdoor scenes generally adopts an oil‑in‑water emulsifying system. PEOFA™ MY986 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE is a special Emulsifier for high‑powder and high‑fat formulas.This polyglyceride raw material has a branched-chain isostearic acid structure, and its spreading and ductility is far better than that of traditional straight-chain polyglycerides. It can not only completely wrap the powder and emollient oil, but also form a dense hydrophobic film on the surface of the skin, isolating sweat and facial sebum from scouring the base makeup, and achieving a color-locking effect of more than 12 hours.the traditional oil‑in‑water formula is easy to be heavy and sticky. POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE molecules are light and light, and will not accumulate a heavy oil film. coupled with lightweight synthetic esters to regulate the skin feeling, it can make a soft, matte, long‑term makeup base makeup product that is not stuffy.
III.Lightweight synthetic esters regulate the feeling of makeup and skin during the whole period of time
After the emulsification system is completed, the freshness, moisture, and film-forming speed of the liquid foundation on the face are all determined by the emollient oils in the formula.Heavy mineral lipids and high-viscosity vegetable oils will make the base makeup greasy and shiny, and are not suitable for oily skin to hold makeup for a long time; lightweight oils that are too volatile evaporate quickly on the face, and dry skin will dry and peel after a few hours of use. Synthetic ester oils have become the best choice for balancing skin feeling.
Mingya's NSOAF™ ININ ISONONYL ISONONANOATE focuses on matte liquid base makeup products, which can maintain the makeup effect for up to 24 hours. Most of them will replace traditional heavy oils with isononyl isononanoate to reduce the overall oiliness of the cream and adapt it to oily and oily skin.Grease and pigment powders are prone to insufficient infiltration and poor compatibility. With OILREE® 1836N dispersant, lightweight synthetic esters can completely infiltrate every powder particle, not only to ensure the long‑term suspension stability of the powder, but also to maintain the refreshing matte texture of the base makeup.
IV. How to solve the problem of makeup holding layer by layer with the compounding of raw materials
When consumers use liquid foundation on a daily basis, makeup removal will occur in four stages. The problems at each stage correspond to the lack of function of a certain type of raw material, and the complex raw material system just resolves the pain points layer by layer.
The first stage is 1‑3 hours of makeup, the problem is concentrated in the stuck powder, the lines accumulate powder, the cause is insufficient dispersion of the powder, the lack of high‑efficiency dispersants such as polyhydroxystearic acid, the powder gathers and accumulates in the skin texture; the second stage is 4‑8 hours of makeup, the nose and forehead oil floating powder, the core is the insufficient waterproof and anti‑sebum ability of the emulsified film, the oil‑in‑water formula relies on PEOFA™ MY986 to form a hydrophobic protective film, blocking sebum from dissolving the base makeup; the third stage is to wear makeup for 8‑12 hours, and the cheeks and eyes are dry and mottled. the root cause is the weak moisturizing carrying capacity of the formula. glycereth‑26 is used with polyols to lock in moisture,maintain the moisture of the skin surface, and avoid dryness and cracking of the film; the fourth stage is to wear makeup for 12-24 hours, a large area of makeup is taken off, and the overall dullness requires dispersants, emulsifiers, and emollient olis to work together to stabilize the overall cream structure and delay powder oxidation and water-oil separation.
V.The development of long-lasting base makeup raw materials to multi-functional complex formulas
A single functional raw material will gradually be replaced by a composite raw material that combines dispersion, emollient, and auxiliary emulsification, reducing the types of raw materials added to the formula, simplifying the production and deployment steps, and reducing the probability of compatibility conflicts between multiple raw materials.At the same time, for people with sensitive skin, low-irritating, fragrance-free, and hypoallergenic raw materials will become the mainstream of research and development, weakening the irritation of traditional oils and emulsifiers to fragile skin.In the future, more iterations of new emulsified, dispersed, and emollient raw materials will continue to refresh the wearing experience of 24-hour makeup liquid foundation, balancing the two major consumer demands of long-lasting makeup and gentle skin nourishment.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
