I. The focus of the development of makeup remover products is no longer just the ability to clean
Makeup remover oil needs to have a good spreading ability to form a continuous oily contact environment on the surface of the skin, making it easier for makeup and oily dirt to be taken away.At the same time, the product also needs to consider the emulsification performance after encountering water to avoid obvious greasy residues during flushing.
Makeup remover needs to find a balance between cleansing ability and daily care.Compared with makeup remover oil, it already has an oily and aqueous phase composition, and the fineness, fluidity and storage stability of the emulsion have also become the content that needs attention during the development process.
The characteristics of makeup remover cream are even more obvious.It usually has a certain cream structure, which can maintain a relatively stable form during access and massage, but after contact with the skin, it needs to be gradually softened, spread out, and emulsified when water is added.
II. Makeup remover oil: the balance between the dissolving ability of the oil phase and the emulsification in water
Makeup remover oil is a typical oil-based cleansing product.It usually uses oils and esters as the main components. Through the interaction between the oil phase and makeup, it helps dissolve and take away oily dirt on the surface of the skin.
Different oils have differences in spreading speed, viscosity, fluidity, and skin touch.Some oil phases can bring a strong sense of lubrication, but they may appear heavy after use; some oil phases spread out faster and are lighter during massage, but the cleaning performance of the overall system needs to be further considered.For example, Isopropyl myristate can be used as one of the ester oil phase options in the formula to help adjust the ductility and touch of the product.
In the makeup remover oil system, OILREE® MY943 SORBETH-30 TETRAOLEATE is an emulsified raw material worth paying attention to.The focus of its application in the system is to help oily formulas form an emulsified and dispersed state after contact with water.In the actual formula, the amount of Emulsifier added cannot be determined separately from the composition of the oil phase.When the proportion of different base oils, ester oils and other functional oils changes, the emulsification process may also change.
III. Makeup remover: The emulsifying structure and cleaning experience need to be considered at the same time
The formula of makeup remover usually involves the aqueous phase, the oily phase and the emulsifier.The aqueous phase affects the fluidity and overall structure of the product, the oil phase participates in the dissolution of the product, and the emulsifier helps the two phases form a relatively uniform system.In this process, the choice of emulsifier will affect the appearance, fineness and long-term stability of the emulsion.If the emulsifying system does not match the oil phase, the product may experience emulsion thickening, viscosity changes, oil-water stratification, etc.
The MY94TS in the PHSPTER™ series provides another application idea for makeup remover and related emulsifying systems.PHSPTER ™ MY94TS TRILAURETH-4 PHOSPHATE is an oil-in-water emulsifier with good phase conversion effect and dispersion. It is milder than traditional anionic emulsifiers and is suitable for emulsions, sun protection, powder grinding and makeup remover products.For makeup remover, the emulsified structure needs to meet the requirements of storage stability, and at the same time, the spreading and rinsing process of the product on the skin must be considered.
IV.Makeup remover cream: changes in the structure of the cream and the process of use
The biggest difference between makeup remover cream and the previous two products is that it has clearer requirements for the initial form.A qualified makeup remover cream needs to maintain a relatively stable paste-like structure in the packaging, which is convenient for consumers to access, and is not prone to obvious oil-liquid separation.At the same time, after touching the skin, it needs to have a certain softness, which can be gradually spread out through massage.
In terms of the selection of emulsifiers, OILREE® MY945 PEG-20 GLYCERYL TRIISOSTEARATE is a kind of raw material worthy of attention in the raw material system of Mingya makeup remover products.It can be used as one of the main emulsified raw materials for makeup remover products and used in combination with related makeup remover emulsified raw materials. It is suitable for makeup remover oil, makeup remover cream and other products.Its application characteristics include helping to form a good product appearance, improving the silky feeling during use, and reducing the obvious greasy touch.
V.Polyglyceride raw materials to provide more formula options for makeup remover products
In addition to traditional polyoxyethylene emulsified raw materials, polyglyceride raw materials also have a certain application space in personal care formulas.Such raw materials have different fatty acid composition and hydrophilic and oleophilic characteristics.
The PEOFA™ MYPGO1810 POLYGLYCERYL-10 OLEATE in the PEOFA™ series is one of Mingya polyglyceride products.This raw material is a non-ionic raw material of plant origin and is suitable for oil-in-water emulsification system.For formulas that need to adjust the oil-water binding state and improve the dispersion performance of the product, they can be applied in combination with the oil phase type and the overall emulsifying structure.For example, makeup remover lotion needs to pay attention to the structure and long-term stability of the emulsion; makeup remover oil needs to focus on the emulsification process of the oil phase after encountering water; makeup remover cream also needs to consider the compatibility between the raw material and the structure of the cream.
For some formulas that want to take into account the softness after removing makeup, it is also necessary to consider the needs of follow-up care products, such as the moisturizing and emollient directions involved in Makeup moisturizer.The makeup remover product itself should first ensure the emulsification and flushing performance during the cleaning process, and should not be confused with the formula goals of subsequent moisturizing care.
VI.Where are the main differences in the formula of the three makeup remover dosage forms
- Different oil phase design
Makeup remover oils usually take the oil phase as the main body, and need to focus on the dissolving ability, spreading and greasy feeling of makeup after rinsing.
Makeup remover lotion needs to take into account the ratio of the oil phase to the water phase at the same time. In addition to the cleansing ability, it is also necessary to ensure the appearance and stability of the lotion.
Makeup remover cream needs to further consider the hardness, softness and structural changes of the cream during storage on the basis of oil phase selection.
- Different emulsification methods
Makeup remover oil usually exists in an oily system before use, and only begins to emulsify after contact with water.
Makeup remover milk itself is already a pre-formed emulsifying system, so it is necessary to focus on the quality of emulsification and storage stability in the production process.
Makeup remover cream needs to maintain the shape of the cream body while ensuring that it can be smoothly spread and emulsified in water during use.
Makeup remover oil needs to pay attention to the emulsification speed after encountering water and the residue of the oil film after rinsing.
Makeup remover needs to avoid too heavy residues after cleaning, while maintaining a proper lubrication experience.
Makeup remover cream needs to pay attention to the process of changing from an oily state to an emulsified state to avoid problems that are difficult to rinse or obvious residues.
- Different stability concerns
Makeup remover oil needs to focus on transparency, uniformity, and whether precipitation or stratification occurs during storage.
Makeup remover lotion needs to pay attention to the effects of oil-water stratification, viscosity changes, emulsion particle state, and temperature changes.
Makeup remover cream needs to focus on softening, hardening, oil analysis, cream shrinkage, and morphological changes at different temperatures.
VII. Mingya continues to improve the application plan of emulsified raw materials for makeup remover products
Hubei Mingya continues to improve its product layout around personal care raw materials. The raw materials of related makeup remover products cover different types such as OILREE® MY943, PHSPTER™ MY94TS, OILREE® MY945 and PEOFA™ MYPGO1810, providing more options for the formulation development of makeup remover oil, makeup remover lotion and makeup remover cream.
From the dissolution of the oil phase of the makeup remover oil and the emulsification in water, to the emulsion structure of the makeup remover lotion, to the shape of the cream of the makeup remover cream and the changes in the use process, the formula design needs to consider not only a certain individual link, but the complete process of the product from production to consumer use.
In the future, Mingya will continue to focus on the application scenarios of personal care raw materials, combined with actual formula testing and product development needs, to explore more application directions of emulsion systems for makeup remover products, and provide customers with richer raw material selection and formula application support.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
