Anhydrous lip makeup system, silicone gel builds the core skin feeling base
The anhydrous formula system of lip makeup as a whole relies on the oil phase and silicon phase to build the entire skeleton of the product. Most of the skin texture, matte degree, and application ductility are determined by silicon raw materials.In the A-phase system of the matte lip mud reference formula, SMOICON® MY621 DIMETHICONE＆DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER accounts for 68% of the high addition ratio, which is the component with the highest proportion of the entire formula.The silicone crosslinked polymer is in the form of a transparent to translucent gel, relying on low-viscosity dimethyl siloxane as a solvent, and has very excellent spreading properties.When applied in contact with the lip mucosa, it can be quickly spread out, giving the product a velvety and smooth touch. After the application is completed, it can be quickly absorbed by the surface layer, bringing a dry and matte skin texture, while achieving a long-lasting moisturizing effect.In addition to anhydrous makeup, the raw material can also thicken the oil-in-water formula, and its application scenarios cover skin care, makeup, antiperspirant and deodorant products.
The addition of SMOICON® MY651 Cyclopentasiloxane＆DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, which also belongs to the silicone gel category, is 18.45%, which is also the key raw material in the formula.The crosslinked polymer uses cyclopentamethylene dimethyl siloxane as the solvent and is a quick-drying silicone gel. It is different from the previous gel. It has a distinct powder texture. It is dry and not greasy after being applied to the mouth. The cold and hot matching process can be adapted to bring a soft matte soft focus effect to the lip mud.The two silicone gels cooperate with each other, one focuses on spreading a silky and long-lasting texture, and the other provides a powdery matte and quick-drying properties. The combination of the two lays the foundation for the lip mud velvet matte makeup effect.
In order to adjust the overall flow performance of the gel, the formula introduces polydimethylsiloxane, which is 5cs silicone oil, with an added amount of 10%, which is used to dilute the crosslinked gel, reduce the consistency of the overall system, and avoid the finished product from being too thick and difficult to push away.The complete set of phase A materials needs to be put into a three-roller machine for grinding. The grinding process can break up the gel agglomerated particles to ensure that the finished product has a delicate texture after subsequent mixing, and there will be no bad experience of particle lip scraping.After the grinding is completed, the B-phase material is heated, stirred, dissolved and mixed.
Special emulsifying and dispersing raw materials to solve the problem of dispersion stability of anhydrous makeup
Anhydrous makeup looks like there is no contradiction between water and oil emulsification, but the system contains a variety of components of silicon phase, grease, waxy, and inorganic toner. The polarity of different substances varies greatly, and it is easy to have quality defects such as toner sedimentation, component stratification, and waxy precipitation. Therefore, dispersants and emulsifying stabilizers are an indispensable part of the formula.
PEOFA™MY984 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE was added to the formula as an Emulsifier for the oil-in-water system, with an added amount of 1%.This yellow liquid raw material has excellent compatibility with various oil-in-water emulsions, and can still play a dispersing role even in an anhydrous makeup environment.There is also PEOFA™MY986 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE in the same series, with similar performance logic. In addition to anhydrous makeup, such ingredients can often be seen in waterproof sunscreens, skin care creams for dry skin, and baby ointments.Many engineers who make waterproof and sunscreen formulas will combine two polyglyceride isostearates at the same time to optimize the wetting and dispersing effect of pigment powders in the oil phase.
Plant-derived OILREE®1836N POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID is a yellow liquid raw material, which is derived from plant resources and has useful value in sunscreen, makeup and cleaning products.It can effectively reduce the viscosity of the dispersion system, optimize the emulsification performance, and enhance the comprehensive sensory experience of the product. It can be used in creams, creams, and lipstick formulas.In the high-viscosity silicone gel system, the toner is more difficult to wet. After adding the dispersant, the surface of the powder is fully wetted, which can avoid the settlement and agglomeration of the toner during storage and avoid uneven makeup. Mottled color.
In terms of paste stabilizer, OILREE®MY722 TRIBEHENIN is a yellowish to white granular fat-soluble raw material, which is a high molecular weight waxy substance with excellent compatibility and good waterproof ability.It can act as an oil phase thickener and emulsifying stabilizer, and is widely used in lip glaze lipsticks, eye makeup, and sunscreen products.In the lip mud formula, OILREE®MY722 TRIBEHENIN can adjust the hardness of the paste to prevent the paste from being too soft and collapsing in a high temperature environment, and it will not become too hard and difficult to apply under low temperature conditions, taking into account the storage stability and the feel of use.
In the development of multiphase mixed cosmetics, Isopropyl myristate is often used as a polar oil to assist powder wetting, but this set of matte lip mud formula is based on the silicon phase, and there is no large introduction of such ester oils. It is also to avoid the greasy feeling caused by esters and maintain the core positioning of matte dryness.
Shea butter derivatives, taking into account system stability and moisturizing sensory experience
VEGEFIERS™MYS16-75 PEG-75 SHEA BUTTER GLYCERIDES is a light yellow paste raw material, which is PEG 75 shea butter glycerides, with an added amount of 5% in the formula.This raw material has multiple functions, which can strengthen the overall stability of cosmetics and improve the applicability of products.When raw materials of different polarities are mixed together, it can promote the full mixing of each component and reduce the risk of system phase separation.At the same time, it can also strengthen the moisturizing effect of the product, and it can also be used in the sunscreen formula to improve the optical stability of the formula.The application scenarios are very wide, and creams, lotions, shampoos, lipsticks, and hand creams can all be adapted.
Placed in the formula system of matte lip mud, although the silicone gel feels dry on the skin, it has a strong sense of closure, and long-term application can easily bring tightness to the lips.VEGEFIERS™MYS16-75 brings in the moisturizing structure related to shea butter to ease the tightness caused by the silicone system without destroying the matte makeup effect.
Ordinary skin care creams rely on moisture-absorbing moisturizers to capture environmental moisture, while anhydrous lip mud relies more on oils and modified lipids to form a thin and thin closed film on the surface of the lips, reducing the outward volatilization and loss of moisture from the lips themselves.Some lip moisturizing products with oil-in-water formula will use Oil in water emulsion to build a system, which focuses on lightness and hydration, but it is difficult to make a high-level matte and waterproof makeup-holding ability.
Plant-based and multifunctional raw materials have become a trend
Consumer demand is still further promoting the iteration of raw materials. Consumers now not only pursue good-looking makeup effects, but also pay attention to the source of raw materials. The popularity of plant-based, biodegradable, and multifunctional composite raw materials continues to rise.Just like OILREE®1836N and VEGEFIERS™MYS16-75, they are all modified from plant sources. One focuses on dispersion and the other takes into account stable moisturizing. A single raw material assumes multiple functions, which can help the formula streamline the components and reduce the complexity of the formula.
The expansion of the oil-in-water anhydrous makeup industry has also led to an increase in demand for supporting emulsifying and dispersing raw materials, and the demand for polyglycerol emulsifiers such as 984 and 986 has increased year by year.The combination of raw materials related to Water in oil emulsion is no longer limited to skin care and sunscreen, and its application in anhydrous makeup and lip products continues to increase.
Conclusion
A small matte lip mud seems to be just a consumer product of color, but behind it is the result of the collaboration of silicone gels, special waxes, and plant-modified emulsified and dispersed raw materials.Competition in the makeup industry is intensifying. Color marketing can bring short-term traffic, and the innovation of the underlying formula and raw materials is the foundation for the product to gain a firm foothold in the market.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
