In the development of cosmetic formulas, the choice of emulsifiers will directly affect the way the oil phase and the water phase are combined, and it is also related to the texture, sense of use and storage stability of the product.For products such as face creams, hand creams, foundation creams, and BB creams, the formula not only needs to meet the basic emulsification requirements, but also needs to be adjusted in combination with oil composition, product morphology, and actual production conditions.
Mingya's PEOFA™PGAR1803 POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE is a nonionic surfactant that can be used in water in oil systems. It is esterified from polyglycerol and ricinoleic acid. It has the appearance of yellow oily liquid and is fat-soluble. It can be used as an Oil in water emulsifier for a variety of skin care creams and makeup product formulas.
I.Why is the water in oil emulsification system worth paying attention to?
Emulsification is a very common technical link in cosmetic formulas.Since water and oil cannot naturally form a long-term uniform mixing system under normal circumstances, emulsifiers are needed to help two liquids of different properties form a relatively stable dispersion structure.Depending on the continuous phase, common emulsifying systems can be divided into two types: oil in water and water in oil.
Oil in water systems usually use water as the continuous phase, and the oil phase is dispersed in the aqueous phase.Such systems are widely used in lotions, creams and other daily skin care products.The Oil in water system uses the oil phase as a continuous phase, and the aqueous phase exists in the oil phase in the form of dispersed droplets.The structure of the two systems is different, and the applicable raw material combination and formula design ideas are also different.
For water in oil products, formulators need to focus on the adaptation of the Emulsifier to the oil phase, the addition method of the aqueous phase, the dispersion process, and the stability of the final system.If you only focus on the emulsifying ability of a single raw material and ignore the overall formula structure, it may be difficult to obtain the expected product state.For example, when developing hand cream, formulators need to consider the choice of oil, product consistency, ductility during application, and skin feeling after use.When developing foundation cream or BB cream, in addition to the emulsification system, it is also necessary to pay attention to the compatibility of pigments, powders and other functional raw materials with the basic formula.
II.Why do water in oil formulas need to pay attention to the choice of emulsifiers?
In the actual development process, different types of emulsifiers often correspond to different system requirements.water in oil products need to maintain the dispersion state of the aqueous phase in the oil phase. For formulas with the oil phase as the continuous phase, the type and proportion of grease will affect the overall state of the system.There are differences in viscosity, polarity and other physical and chemical properties of different oils and fats. The waxes, thickeners, powders and other auxiliary raw materials in the formula may also change the structure of the final product.
The final performance of the emulsifier is related to the entire formula.Even if the same emulsifier is used, as long as the oil phase composition, water phase ratio, process conditions, or other raw materials change, the final result may be different.
III.The main application scenarios of PEOFA™PGAR1803
PEOFA™PGAR1803 can be used in a variety of water in oil skin care creams, lotions, hand creams, foundation creams and BB creams and other products.
- Water in oil skin care cream
Skin care creams are usually composed of oils, emulsifiers, aqueous phases, and other functional raw materials.For Oil in water creams, the formula design needs to revolve around the continuous structure of the oil connection.In such products, PEOFA™PGAR1803 can be used as a candidate emulsifier to help establish an oil-in-water emulsification system.Cream formulas usually also involve viscosity, applicability, and storage stability.The choice of emulsifier needs to be combined with other raw materials, and the final texture or stability cannot be completely attributed to a certain ingredient.
In the development of hand cream, formulators usually need to combine the target skin feeling, oil combination and expected texture of the product to carry out formula design.If the product adopts an water in oil system, it is necessary to pay attention to whether the emulsifier can be applied to the system, and whether the raw material addition and emulsification process match the production conditions.
Foundation cream not only requires an appropriate emulsifying structure, but also involves the dispersion of toner, pigments and other powder raw materials. Formulators need to comprehensively consider the compatibility of the basic emulsifying system with the powder components.If the water in oil system is used, it is possible to evaluate whether PEOFA™PGAR1803 is suitable for inclusion in the formula according to the specific structural requirements of the product.
BB creams usually combine some of the characteristics of skin care and base makeup products, and the formula may contain oils, powders, pigments, and other auxiliary ingredients.Since the formula structure of different BB creams is not the same, the choice of emulsifier needs to match the target dosage form.During the trial matching process, it is recommended to pay attention to the emulsification state, toner distribution, appearance changes, and system changes during storage.If multiple powders or structural raw materials are used in the formula, their impact on the processing process and the state of the finished product should also be evaluated.
IV. What stability assessments need to be done in formula development?
First, observe the initial emulsification state.
After the emulsification is completed, observe whether the sample is uniform and whether there is obvious oil-water separation, local agglomeration or other abnormal phenomena.If the initial state of the sample is not ideal, priority should be given to checking the method of adding raw materials, the emulsification process and the composition of the formula.
Second, observe the changes in appearance and texture.
For creams and hand creams, the color, appearance and consistency changes of the samples can be recorded.For foundation cream and BB cream, you should also pay attention to whether the toner distribution is uniform, and whether there is obvious uneven color or other abnormal appearance.
Third, carry out appropriate storage stability tests.
Formulators can set appropriate storage conditions and observation cycles according to product development requirements, and regularly record whether samples have stratification, precipitation, color changes or texture changes.The specific test conditions should be determined according to the product characteristics and the evaluation procedures of the enterprise, and it is not appropriate to directly give a unified stability conclusion when the test basis is lacking.
Fourth, it is verified in combination with the actual process.
The performance of emulsifiers in the formula may be affected by factors such as feeding sequence, stirring speed, temperature and equipment conditions.After entering the production amplification stage, the key process conditions should be confirmed to determine whether the formula can obtain the expected results under the actual production conditions.
Conclusion
The water in oil emulsification system has clear application scenarios in skin care creams, hand creams and some makeup products.For formula developers, the choice of emulsifier needs to consider the characteristics of raw materials, oil phase composition, product dosage form and production process at the same time, rather than relying on a single parameter to determine the final effect.
PEOFA™PGAR1803 is a nonionic surfactant that can be used in water in oil systems.Its main features include fat solubility, the appearance of a Yellow oily liquid, and the recommended dosage range of 1%-6%.When matching the oil phase, formulators can combine common Emollients and thickeners according to the target skin feel, and this raw material can work well together with Water in oil emulsifier to build stable formulations.The raw material can be used in water in oil skin care creams, lotions, hand creams, foundation creams and BB creams and other products.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
