When developing body milk, it will always be stuck at a very realistic balance point.If you want to moisturize enough and add more oil, the finished product will be easy to become heavy and sticky when applied, leaving mimeographs on the pajamas; if you want to be refreshing and easy to absorb, reduce the oil phase components, and can't hold on to the water-locking effect for a long time, the dry area will start to tighten and itch again after a long time.Customer preferences in different regions are also different. Some markets prefer silky, soft and long-lasting moisturizing, and some customers are more concerned about the lightness when pushing away. The adjustment space of the formula is often hidden in the fine choices of moisturizing raw materials, oil system and emulsification collocation.Mingya launched a moisturizing body lotion formula, using its own raw materials to build a more adaptable oil-in-water emulsion solution.
Build a basic moisturizing network to optimize the initial skin feeling
Among the A-phase aqueous phases of the complete formula, the first one to assume the role of moisturizing base is OILREE®MY EG-26 GLYCERETH-26. We usually use glycerin as the basic Moisturizer. Glycerin has good water retention ability, but when it is added high, some skin types will feel obvious warmth.The molecular weight of this raw material is more than ten times that of glycerin, and the moisturizing ability is solid, but the skin feeling performance is separated from glycerin, which will not bring obvious burning sensation, and it is not easy to feel stuffy.Paired with it are propylene glycol and glycerin. Several water-soluble moisturizing raw materials are combined to capture the moisture in the environment from different dimensions and build a basic moisturizing network on the surface of the stratum corneum.
In Phase A, Mingya's OILREE®MY9176 PEG/PPG-17/6 COPOLYMER has a clear distinction between the role it assumes in the formula and the moisturizing ingredients above.It is not a simple moisturizing component, but more as a lubricant and skin sensation regulator.Many body lotion formulas, after the water phase and oil phase are combined, it is easy to have a sticky feel. When applied, the drag is strong, and the surface of the skin is slimy after application. This discomfort can be improved by such polyether raw materials in many cases.OILREE®MY9176 brings a delicate and silky touch, which can weaken the sticky properties of the entire emulsion system and make the process of pushing the paste smoother.
The remaining components of phase A include EDTA-2Na, carbone, translucent Hansoh glue, and deionized water.The main function of EDTA-2Na is to chelate the metal ions in the water body, to avoid the problems of discoloration and system instability caused by the long-term storage of trace metal ions in the raw materials, and to extend the shelf life of finished products.Kapo and translucent Hanshen glue are rheological regulators.Water is used as a carrier to make up the margin, carrying all the aqueous phase raw materials evenly dispersed, and it is also the basic medium for the entire emulsion system.
The combination of emollient oils builds a long-lasting moisturizing core
Go to the B-phase oil phase part. This is the key area that determines the moisturizing core of the body lotion. The raw material with the highest amount added to the oil phase is NSOAF™MCT CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE. This oleophilic softener has always been a widely applicable ester raw material in the emollient formula. It has good antioxidant stability, colorless and odorless, low irritation, and excellent compatibility. Mineral oils, vegetable oils, and fatty alcohol can all be stably combined with it.It also has a very special characteristic. It can still remain transparent and liquid at low temperatures, and it will not solidify below zero degrees. It is applied to the skin and will not form a thick oily film with a strong sense of closure. It is a light oil with a good sense of penetration. It can quickly fit the keratin and soften the dry and peeling parts.
Mingya's NSOAF™IPP ISOPROPYL PALMITATE, a raw material, has a wide range of application scenarios in skin care products, makeup and hair care formulas. In addition to basic moisturizing and moisturizing, it also has certain anti-inflammatory and anti-static properties, and at the same time can optimize the ductility of the cream.Its skin penetration performance is relatively outstanding, which can drive other functional raw materials in the system to penetrate deeply into the keratin. Many emollient formulas that want to improve the penetration efficiency of nutrients will be used in small quantities with such short-chain ester Emollients.Isopropyl myristate is also the best lightweight emollient ester of the same type.The ester raw materials of these two NSOAF™ series are combined together, one at a time, to build a basic soft skeleton of the oil phase, taking into account the penetration speed and moisturizing endurance, and will not float on the surface of the skin for a long time after being applied like heavy vegetable oils.
Multiple OILREE® raw materials work together to ensure the stability of the emulsion
The emulsification and stabilization system in the oil phase relies on Mingya's OILREE® series of emulsified raw materials to build, namely OILREE®MY967, OILREE®MY S60 and OILREE®MY722 .
OILREE®MY967 PEG-100 STEARATE/GLYCERYL STEARATE is a very classic oil-in-water emulsified raw material. It has a strong emulsifying and stabilizing ability for non-polar oils such as white oil. Many mature cream emulsion formulas can be used alone to build a stable O/W system. The emulsified emulsion is not easy to layer, and the stability is reliable.
OILREE®MY S60 SORBITAN STEARATE is a W/O type Emulsifier, which is insoluble in water and disperses in hot water. It has outstanding emulsifying, dispersing, and lubricating capabilities. It can also act as a stabilizer and defoamer.In this set of formula, it is not used alone as the main emulsification, but is combined with the O/W type OILREE®MY967. Through the combination of two different HLB emulsifiers, the range of oils compatible with the entire emulsifying system is broadened, so that the complex oil phase mixed with white oil, esters, and fatty alcohol is better wrapped in the aqueous phase, reducing the probability of oil-water separation after long-term placement.
OILREE®MY722 TRIBEHENIN It is a high molecular weight oil derivative, which has good waterproof ability. In this formula, it mainly functions as an oil phase thickener and an emulsifying stabilizer.Adding a small amount of OILREE®MY722 to the oil phase can enhance the cohesion of the oil phase itself, so that the oil droplets are not easy to gather and merge in the aqueous phase, and assist the emulsifying system to stabilize the emulsion state.At the same time, it can also slightly improve the water resistance of the oil film after application. After taking a bath and applying, when in daily contact with water, the moisturizing film will not be quickly washed away, prolonging the moisturizing time.It works in concert with the other two fatty alcohols in phase B, behenol and cetyl alcohol. These two fatty alcohols are both emulsifying components and emollients. At the same time, they can adjust the melting point of the cream so that when the body lotion touches the skin, it can be gently spread and melted, making it softer to the touch.
The remaining B-phase raw materials include type 40 monoglycerides, 15# white oil AB oil, which is C12-C15 alcohol benzoate.Type 40 monoglyceride is also a commonly used co-emulsifying and stabilizing agent to further strengthen the emulsifying system and bring a soft emollient feeling at the same time.15# White oil is a classic hydrocarbon oil with stronger sealing properties. It is added in small quantities to increase the long-term water-locking ability of the entire formula.C12-C15 alcohol parabens have excellent spreading sensation, which can enhance the silky smoothness of cream application, weaken the stuffy feeling caused by white oil, and balance the shortness of skin feeling of hydrocarbon oils.Many formulators use this kind of parabens when using mineral oils, in order to retain the ability to lock in water while avoiding the defects of traditional white oils that are easy to dull the skin.When blending the oil phase, many people will also refer to the application logic of modified castor oil derivatives such as Hydrogenated castor oil to adjust the compatibility between the oils and the rheological properties of the paste.
Simple and secure, suitable for mainstream compliance requirements
Finally, the anticorrosive component of Phase C, phenoxyethanol, is added after the emulsifying system is cooled to a suitable temperature to inhibit the growth of microorganisms and ensure the hygiene and safety of the finished product under normal storage conditions. With the auxiliary anticorrosive effect brought by the previous polyols, the complete anticorrosive scheme is simple and safe, and it is suitable for the compliance requirements of the mainstream market.
Summary
The body care market has been slowly changing. Consumers no longer simply pursue the more oily and moisturized they are. Everyone is beginning to distinguish the skin feelings caused by different oils and fats. They will care about whether they will stick to clothes after applying, whether they will be stuffy, and whether there will be strange oil film reflections.A qualified body lotion must be able to spread quickly on the skin and absorb it in a short time. There is no obvious shine on the surface. At the same time, the stratum corneum locks in enough moisture to maintain softness for a long time.The smooth and gentle experience of the skin after application is also inseparable from the appropriate conditioning components. Catic softener is a class of raw materials often used in care products to optimize the touch of the skin.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
