I.Foreword: The carrier system is the key to determining the actual performance of the silicone elastomer formula
In the field of cosmetic formula research and development, silicone elastomers have always been the core raw materials for creating skin sensation, modifying skin texture, and enhancing makeup effect. They are also widely used functional components in the categories of base makeup, sunscreen, and makeup primer.When most formulators choose silicone elastomer raw materials, they will give priority to the performance parameters, molecular structure and gel state of the crosslinked polymer itself. They repeatedly compare the differences in use caused by different crosslinking systems, but often ignore one decisive part-the volatile carrier system.
In the design of various makeup and skin care formulas, reasonable matching of
Emulsifier makeup can further integrate the elastomer system with other raw materials and adapt to the product needs of different dosage forms.Focus on the two commonly used carriers Cyclopentasiloxane and Isododecane to share in detail, and talk about the different performance of the elastomer system constructed by different carriers in terms of use scenarios, skin feeling, and makeup effect.
II.SMOICON® MY652：
Elastomer system with Cyclopentasiloxane as carrier
SMOICON® MY652 is a silicone elastomer gel with Cyclopentasiloxane as the dispersion carrier, and it is also a representative raw material in the soft focus and silky skin texture route.Relying on the physical and chemical properties of Cyclopentasiloxane itself, this elastomer gel has built a distinctive style of use system, which has fixed application scenarios in the fields of skin care and makeup.
1. Overall characteristics of the system
Relying on the natural properties of Cyclopentasiloxane, the most outstanding feature of the MY652 complete system is the outstanding smoothness of getting started.There is almost no resistance during the application process, and the smoothness of pushing away is the effect that many formulas pursue.At the same time, this carrier has a moderate volatilization rate, will not dry out instantly, nor will it stay on the surface of the skin for a long time and cause stickiness.The overall texture is light to use, the skin feeling is released naturally when applied, and the ductility is further magnified.
2. Smear texture performance
Cyclopentasiloxane has excellent spreading ability, which is directly reflected in the product application link.After products containing MY652 come into contact with the skin, they can quickly extend on the skin of the face and body, and they can be spread into a uniform thin layer in a short period of time, without local accumulation or rubbing.While the carrier spreads quickly, a silky film will immediately form, improving the roughness and irregularities on the surface of the skin.
For people with daily makeup, the drag and drop feeling when applying makeup is a point that affects the experience very much, and after this carrier is matched with an elastomer, it can greatly reduce the frictional resistance in the early stage of application.As Cyclopentasiloxane slowly evaporates, the oily feeling on the surface gradually fades, and finally leaves a soft powder touch on the surface of the skin, which is refreshing and not stuffy.Whether it is used alone as a pre-makeup product, or superimposed on subsequent foundations and loose powders, the natural texture of this transition will not conflict with subsequent products.
3. Visual and optical modification effects
From the point of view of visual performance, the gel network formed by MY652 has high permeability, which will not cause the product to appear whitish or gray, and retains the natural luster of the skin itself.The elastomer polymer is very finely dispersed in the carrier, and the particle uniformity is excellent, and there will be no large particle agglomeration that affects the texture of the makeup surface.It is also this delicate distribution state that gives it excellent soft-focus dermabrasion ability, which can gently modify pores, superficial fine lines, and weaken imperfections on the surface of the skin.
4. Summary of comprehensive skin feeling indicators
| Characteristic Dimension | Actual Performance |
| Spreadability | Excellent; spreads effortlessly with no resistance |
| Drying Speed | Moderately fast; evaporates at a steady, gradual pace |
III.SMOICON® MY613：
Elastomer system with Isododecane as the carrier
SMOICON® MY613 uses Isododecane as a volatile carrier, and is also made with polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer.Unlike the previous Cyclopentasiloxane system, which took the route of silky soft focus, the physical and chemical properties of Isododecane itself have allowed the entire elastomer system to develop in the direction of strong makeup, high matte, and friction resistance. It is also the core choice in long-lasting makeup formulas.The two carriers are only different in basic raw materials, but the final product style and applicable scenarios are completely distinguished.
1. Overall characteristics of the system
Compared with the Cyclopentasiloxane system, the elastomer system created by Isododecane has better compatibility with various grease raw materials. In the formula of compounding a variety of grease components, the stability and adaptability are more advantageous.The core positioning of the entire system is biased towards long-lasting makeup, and it has been optimized for scenes such as sweating, friction, and rubbing. The anti-metastasis ability is one of its highlights.
At the same time, the dry texture brought by this carrier will be stronger, the overall skin feeling tends to be extremely matte, and the oily feeling is suppressed very low.Many makeup products that focus on all-weather makeup, waterproof and sweat-proof will give priority to MY613 to build a basic skin feeling system.
2. Smear texture performance
The initial skin feeling brought about by Isododecane will be more dry, and the refreshing texture can be clearly felt as soon as it is applied to the skin, with almost no oily feeling.After the product comes into contact with the skin, the styling speed is very fast, and a stable film can be formed on the surface in a short period of time. There will be no long-term sticky hands and sticky problems, and the overall stickiness is greatly weakened.
Relying on the combination of carrier and elastomer, the matte effect of MY613 is very outstanding, it can effectively absorb excess oil on the surface of the skin, and create a matte makeup effect from the application stage.For people who prefer matte makeup and hate shiny and shiny, this skin feeling will be very suitable.Although the initial dryness is stronger, its ductility is still at a high level, and there will be no problems of unwinding or stuck lines when applied normally, but the overall touch is obviously different from the silky feeling of Cyclopentasiloxane.
3. Film-forming properties
The elastomer network structure formed by MY613 on the surface of the skin is tighter, the arrangement between the polymers is compact, and the surface film formed has a higher density.This firming membrane structure directly enhances the adhesion between the raw material and the skin. The membrane body fits firmly on the surface of the skin and is not easy to fall off due to facial activity, hand touch, and sweating.
It is precisely because of the excellent film-forming adhesion that the product's makeup holding time, sweat resistance, and anti-rubbing ability have been significantly improved.In scenes such as high temperature environments in summer, outdoor sports, and long commutes with makeup, the advantages of this type of system will be fully demonstrated. The makeup surface is not easy to be mottled, take off makeup, and smudge, and can maintain a complete makeup state for a long time.
4. Summary of comprehensive skin feeling indicators
| Characteristic Dimension | Actual Performance |
| Spreadability | Excellent; applies smoothly |
| Drying Speed | Extremely fast; sets quickly to a matte finish |
IV.Analysis of core differences
1. Volatilization rhythm difference
The volatilization process of Cyclopentasiloxane is gentle and coherent, and the whole process is gradual.From application to complete dryness, the rhythm transitions evenly, and the skin feeling slowly shifts from silky and oily to soft and powdery. The change process is very natural and will not cause the skin to feel suddenly uncomfortable.This gradual volatilization method is also an important reason why it can create a soft and natural makeup effect.
The volatilization mode of Isododecane is very different. Its volatilization process is simpler. It volatilizes quickly in the early stage, and the surface surface is dried in a short time, and the volatilization curve drops significantly.It can enter a completely dry state soon after application, without a long transition stage, which is the core reason why it can quickly form a matte film and reduce stickiness.The different volatilization rhythm directly determines the overall experience direction of the two products after getting started.
2. Polymer network arrangement status
The different molecular structure of the carrier will affect the arrangement of the silicone elastomer crosslinked polymer in the system.In the Cyclopentasiloxane system, the gel network structure formed by the elastomer is looser and more transparent, with more internal voids, and the overall preference is for a light and fluffy state.This open network structure has a softer touch and better light penetration, and ultimately presents a soft and natural visual effect.
In the Isododecane system, the elastomer polymers are stacked more tightly with each other, the entire gel network is tight and solid, there are fewer internal voids, and the structural density is higher.The compact network not only makes the adhesion of the film stronger, but also allows light to form diffuse reflection on the surface, enhancing the visual effect of the matte matte surface, while further improving the stability of the overall structure and making the film more resistant to friction.
3. Interaction with the skin
When the two systems act on the surface of the skin, the dominant source of skin sensation is completely different.The Cyclopentasiloxane system mainly relies on the smoothness of silicone itself as the core experience. The first thing you feel when you touch the skin is the silky and soft touch unique to silicon raw materials. The powder body feeling is gradually manifested after subsequent volatilization, and the overall preference is silky. Mainly, supplemented by powder.
The Isododecane system is dominated by powder and matte texture. The dry powder touch can be felt at the beginning of application, and the smoothness of silicone is weakened, highlighting the matte and dry experience throughout the process.In simple terms, one focuses on silky and soft light, and the other focuses on matte and dryness. The skin type and use preference groups are also naturally divided.When using
Water in oil emulsifier to deploy W/O emulsifier-type products, the adaptation logic of the two carriers and the emulsifying system also needs to be flexibly adjusted in combination with this skin-feeling difference.
V.Product series division recommendations:
Route 1: Soft Focus Texture System
The main Cyclopentasiloxane carrier route, the core advantages are soft focus dermabrasion, silky ductility, natural soft makeup effect, and light texture.This series is uniformly aimed at lightweight skin care, daily light makeup, and soft base makeup products, and is suitable for consumer needs that pursue a natural skin feeling and no heavy film.
Route 2: Long-lasting makeup matte System
The main Isododecane carrier route, the core advantages are powerful oil control, extreme matte, waterproof and sweat-proof, anti-transfer, and long-lasting makeup.This series focuses on professional makeup, outdoor protection, and special products for oily skin. It focuses on use scenarios where makeup is worn for a long time, high temperature and sweating. It is the core choice for long-lasting makeup formulas.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
