Recently, a Russian customer visited Mingya, and exchanged ideas with the Mingya team around the application needs of cosmetic raw materials and formula development. This time it involved two products: OILREE®MY940PE and OILREE®MY945. They exchanged ideas on core issues such as essential oil solubilizing system construction, multi-dosage makeup remover product development, raw material practice technology, formula compatibility and stability debugging, and laid the foundation for subsequent projects.
I.Clarify the direction of differentiated application of beauty raw materials
The underlying logic of the formula of different categories of cosmetics is significantly different, and the demands for emulsified and solubilized raw materials are also very different.The core difficulty of essential oil-based products is to make the hydrophobic essential oils stably dispersed in the aqueous phase to avoid the problems of stratification, oil slick, and turbidity; while makeup remover products need to find a balance between the solubility of makeup, the ability to wash and emulsify, and the skin feeling after rinsing.
During this visit and exchange, Mingya's technical team combined the structural characteristics of the two raw materials with the measured data to provide customers with differentiated application paths: OILREE®MY940PE focuses on the solubilization of essential oils and fragrance oil-soluble components; OILREE®MY945 relies on excellent self-emulsifying properties and is suitable for mainstream makeup remover dosage forms such as makeup remover oil, makeup remover bubble, and makeup remover cream.
II.OILREE®MY940PE: low foaming and high efficiency solubilizer, suitable for fragrance essential oil water-based system
OILREE®MY940PE is a low-foaming solubilizing raw material developed by Mingya for essential oil and flavor solubilizing scenarios. INCI is ppg-26-buteth-26/peg-40 Hydrogenated castor oil/water.
In water-based formulas such as toners, fragrance sprays, and shower gels, it is difficult for oily substances such as essential oils and natural fragrances to disperse spontaneously and evenly, and direct feeding is prone to oil bead agglomeration, oil slick on the surface, and poor light transmittance of the system. Defects.To obtain a clear and stable finished product, the formulator needs to match the appropriate solubilizing scheme according to the type of essential oil, the amount added, and the dosage form of the finished product.
The selection of Solubilizers cannot only look at the name of the surface active substance. The affinity between the solubilizer and the solubilizer, and the state of the overall system after adding the aqueous phase are all key variables.The fatty acid and terpene components of different plant essential oils vary greatly. Even if the same solubilizer is used, the required ratio will fluctuate. Therefore, the preset starting ratio + gradient proofing verification is an essential process.
III. OILREE®MY945: Self-emulsifying Emulsifier, one-stop solution to the problem of makeup remover formula development
Another key raw material of this communication, OILREE®MY945, INCI is peg-20 glyceryl trisostearate, which is a self-emulsifying raw material specially created for makeup remover.
MY945 focuses on the construction of makeup remover formula system.It has high saturation, excellent oxidation resistance, long-term storage is not easy to change color, HLB value is about 8, and it has outstanding self-emulsifying ability.These characteristics just match the core demands of makeup remover products: dissolve makeup oil, emulsify quickly in case of water, rinse easily with water, and do not thicken and oily after washing.
3.1 Excellent self-emulsifying ability, covering many types of makeup remover dosage forms
After the product dissolves the makeup on the face, it can be quickly turned into phase emulsification in case of water, dispersing the oil droplets wrapped in the makeup, and taking it away with the water to reduce residues.MY945 can be flexibly used in a variety of mainstream dosage forms such as makeup remover oil, makeup remover cream, and makeup remover bubble, but the skeleton of different dosage forms varies greatly, and formulators need to adjust the amount of additives, oil system, and emulsifying supporting components in a targeted manner.
- Moisturizing makeup remover oil: Focus on testing the moisturizing feeling, the dissolution speed of makeup, the speed of emulsification in case of water, and the greasy residue after water.；
- Household makeup remover cream: Focus on the formability of the cream, the stability of hot and cold circulation, and the degree of elongation of hand rubbing and melting.；
- Suitable for makeup remover bubbles: it is necessary to take into account the emulsifying power, foaming texture and skin feeling after rinsing.
3.2 HLB≈8, it needs to be combined with the overall complex configuration of the oil phase system
The HLB value of OILREE®MY945 is about 8. It is an oleophilic emulsified raw material and has good compatibility with most synthetic oils and natural vegetable oils, leaving plenty of room for formula debugging.If you want to create a gentle daily makeup remover oil, it tends to extend smoothly, emulsify quickly, and be refreshing after washing; for waterproof heavy makeup, you need to match it with a more soluble oil to test the removal power simultaneously, while avoiding irritation and drying problems.Formula research and development pays more attention to the synergy between raw materials, rather than looking at individual indicators in isolation.
3.3 Oxidation resistance and not easy to change color, taking into account stability and refreshing skin feeling
The high saturation structure gives OILREE®MY945 excellent antioxidant capacity, which reduces the risk of yellowing and discoloration during the storage of the formula, and is particularly friendly to high-oil systems such as makeup remover creams.Greasy residues are the most easily criticized pain points of makeup remover products.The application feature of OILREE®MY945 is that it is easy to wash after emulsification, the skin feels fresh after rinsing, and there is no heavy oily film. It is suitable for development projects that want to improve the stuffy feeling of traditional makeup remover oil.
During the comparative test, the variables can be fixed to compare the emulsification speed of different emulsifying systems, the residue of water, and the touch of the skin after use.To make the formula of makeup remover cream, it is also necessary to continuously monitor whether the cream seeps oil, collapses, and changes in hardness in the high and low temperature environment.At the same time, it is necessary to clarify the positioning: the core function of makeup remover is cleansing. Even if the skin feels comfortable, it is not equivalent to skin care products. Don't confuse the product positioning of cleansing effect and moisturizing repair. Related skin care products need to be supported by corresponding efficacy tests.
IV.Continue to connect with overseas customers and export customized raw material technical support
For beauty raw material manufacturing companies, cross-border face-to-face technical exchanges are the most direct way to understand the differentiated needs of overseas markets.This time the Russian customer visited, in-depth communication was carried out around the fragrance solubilizing and makeup remover formula, to help customers quickly establish the application awareness of the two raw materials, and to provide a clear reference direction for follow-up project proofing.
Mingya has been deeply engaged in the research and development and production of cosmetic raw materials for a long time, and its product matrix covers emulsifiers, siloxane polymers, synthetic oils and a variety of functional care raw materials.We not only deliver standardized raw materials, but also provide full-process technical services. According to customers' product positioning, formulation framework, and market regulations, we provide selection suggestions, proofing ideas, and technical data support to reduce customer R&D trial and error costs.
V. Take application as the core and explore long-term formulation cooperation opportunities
The global personal care market continues to be segmented, and the brand's requirements for the functionality, process friendliness, and terminal experience of raw materials continue to upgrade.Whether it is a solubilizing system of fragrance essential oils, or cleansing categories such as makeup remover oil, makeup remover cream, and makeup remover bubble, the selection of raw materials must anchor the product positioning and rely on systematic formula testing to verify the feasibility.
OILREE®MY940PE and OILREE®MY945 constitute two sets of differentiated solutions for evaluation and selection by the formulation team.With reasonable ratio design, standardized feeding technology, and full formula stability testing, it is possible to better judge whether the raw materials match the project requirements.
This visit and exchange is also part of Mingya's international technical services.In the future, we will continue to maintain technical exchanges with customers around the world, and synchronize the measured data of raw materials, formula cases, and application plans.
Mingya looks forward to relying on a stable raw material supply chain and technical service capabilities to reach long-term formula cooperation with more overseas customers.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
