At the moment of the refined development of makeup consumption, when consumers buy lipsticks, they pay more and more attention to the shape of the cream, body temperature, skin melting, long-lasting moisturizing power and smooth application.Relying on our own raw materials, we use a full-oil anhydrous formula to create a lipstick formula. The finished product achieves the product characteristics of smooth application, excellent ductility, and melting lips with body temperature.
I.Research and development pain points of anhydrous lipstick industry
Anhydrous lipsticks all rely on oil, wax, and emollient esters to build a system, and no water is added, which can avoid the problem of anticorrosive irritation caused by water bodies, and is suitable for daily use by people with chapped lips and sensitive lips.However, there have been two major difficulties in formula research and development in the industry for a long time: first, if you want the cream to be solid and not easy to break, you need a high proportion of hard wax components, which can easily cause the cream to be stiff, the upper lip is difficult to push away, and the fine lines on the lips are pulled.Second, after adding a large amount of emollient oil to enhance the moisturizing degree, it is prone to high temperature oil seepage, cream collapse, sweating and whitish phenomenon.
In addition, the compatibility of ordinary raw materials is uneven, the miscibility of different oils and fats is poor, and the stratification and particle precipitation in the storage stage are also the key to restricting the improvement of lipstick quality.Based on the pain points of the formula, we rely on the combination of raw materials and products, and replace some of the heavy waxy substances with emollient esters and plant lanolin, so as to stabilize the structure of the cream while optimizing the skin feeling, and resolve the contradiction between formability and moisture from the raw material end.
II.Full analysis of A-phase integrated formula
This silicone crosslinked gel is a silicone elastomer raw material with cyclopentamethylene dimethyl siloxane as the solvent. The particle size is fine and the permeability is outstanding. It is added to the lipstick formula. With its own powder soft mist texture, it weakens the sticky and stuffy feeling of traditional oils and oils, making the lipstick light and dry. At the same time, it has excellent covering and retouching ability, which can gently modify lip lines.From the perspective of formula compatibility, this raw material can reconcile the interfacial tension between mineral oils and synthetic esters, improve the degree of integration of the whole oil system, reduce the probability of high temperature oil analysis of the finished product, and add just the right amount of 5%. It will not destroy the firmness of the cream, but also optimize the smoothness of application. It is one of the core raw materials for creating a refreshing skin feeling.
As a plant-derived modified lanolin emollient raw material, it is also the long-lasting moisturizing core of the formula. The raw material is yellow cream, which can be perfectly compatible with most oils such as mineral oils, synthetic esters, and natural waxes, breaking the short board of ordinary lanolin, which is sticky and heavy, and easy to close your mouth.The amount of 10% added to the formula is at the upper limit of the reasonable range of 2%-10% of the recommended dosage. It can form a breathable moisturizing film on the surface of the lips, lock the moisture of the lips for a long time, and improve the problem of dry and cracked lips in autumn and winter. At the same time, it assists the waxy texture to adjust the toughness of the cream and reduce the probability of lipstick bumps and fractures.
3. OILREE® MY747: peg-8 beeswax, additive 9%
Peg-8 beeswax is a modified beeswax raw material and a paste forming skeleton of the formula. It is different from the defect of natural wasp wax that is too brittle. The modified beeswax can stabilize the structure of the paste and keep the finished product in a solid paste shape at room temperature. It can also slowly melt away after contact with human body temperature to enhance the spreading power of the paste.9% of the added amount is matched with polyethylene 500 and W445 microcrystalline wax to accurately balance the hardness of the paste to avoid being too hard to apply or too soft to collapse.
4. PEOFA™ MY984: Polyglyceryl-2 trisostearate, add 5%
Plant-based nonionic emulsifying emollient esters were originally used in Water in oil emulsifier makeup and sunscreen products. They act as oil-dissolving additives in this anhydrous lipstick to enhance the compatibility between oils and waxes of different polarities, and prevent the formula from being stored for a long time. Component separation and particle agglomeration.The 5% addition amount is in line with the recommended dosage of 1%-5%, which assists in the uniform dispersion of various emollient ingredients, making the color paste more delicate to mix, uniform coloring without mottled agglomeration, and further optimizing the ductility of the upper lip to help the cream push away smoothly.
5. NSOAF™TMPI18: Trimethylolpropane triisostearate, additive 16%
High-quality synthetic ester emollient, yellow liquid texture, 16% high addition is an important source of moisturizing formula.The raw material itself has excellent hydrophobic and waterproof properties, which reduces the decolorization problems caused by drinking and eating. At the same time, it relies on its excellent softening ability to soften the rigidity of the wax and weaken the pulling sensation caused by the hard wax. It is combined with petroleum jelly, 26# mineral oil, squalane and other basic moisturizing oils to enhance the hydration of the cream in all directions, and realize the coexistence of a solid cream and a soft and moisturizing feeling.
III.Measured performance of finished products
The finished product of this anhydrous lipstick perfectly realizes the skin-feeling characteristics, has smooth application and excellent ductility, and its comprehensive product strength is better than ordinary cheap lipsticks on the market.：
First, the stability of the paste is outstanding. After the high and low temperature cycle test, there is no oil seepage, no sweating, and no softening and deformation. The paste is stored at room temperature and is firm and complete, and it is not easy to break after transportation bumps, reducing brand production and after-sales losses.
Second, the body temperature triggers the melting of the skin, and the upper lip slowly melts when it touches the body temperature. It is pushed away smoothly without pulling, and there will be no agglomeration, stuck lines, and muddy lips. It takes into account the high extension and solid cream.
Third, long-lasting moisturizing and waterproof, the hydrophobic structure brought about by synthetic esters, and the daily drinking water is slightly anti-decolorization.
IV.Enable the differentiated development of makeup brands
Mingya's five core self-developed special raw materials for lipsticks, covering all categories of silicon-based skin sensation modifiers, plant emollient esters, modified waxes, solubilizing emulsified esters, and high-quality synthetic esters, realize the independent supply of raw materials in the whole chain of lipstick formulas, and control the quality and compatibility of raw materials from the source. Adaptability：
First of all, the performance of raw materials is optimized in a targeted manner, and the formula is improved for the pain points of anhydrous lipstick, eliminating the cost of multi-party screening of raw materials and repeated debugging and compatibility of brands, and shortening the research and development cycle of new products.
Secondly, the application scenarios of raw materials are wide. In addition to this full-oil anhydrous lipstick, it can also be used for lip balm, matte lipstick, sunscreen lip stick and other categories of makeup. Brands can increase or decrease the proportion of wax and powder on the basis of this formula, and quickly iterate a variety of subdivided products.
Finally, all series of green-grade raw materials fit the tuyere of pure beauty development, helping brands create differentiated selling points.
Conclusion
From Silicone Elastomers to soften the skin, plant lanolin long-lasting moisturizing, from modified beeswax to stabilize the cream to synthetic esters to enhance moisturizing and water resistance, this anhydrous lipstick formula, relying on the A-phase integrated process, can truly solve the pain points of traditional lipsticks.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
