Will electrolytes destroy the makeup remover formula?
Detailed explanation of the effect of electrolytes on the formula system of makeup remover oil
With the popularity of efficacy-based cleansing skin care, many formulators will add mineral ingredients, fermentation filtrate, seaweed active substances, and zinc salt maintenance ingredients to the formula to enhance the added value of skin care products.
However, many R&D personnel will encounter the same problem in the actual deployment: the original makeup remover formula with excellent stability, after adding such active ingredients, will slowly experience slow emulsification, decreased permeability, unclean flushing, long-term storage, easy stratification and deterioration and other problems.
In fact, most of the core triggers that cause these formula abnormalities are Electrolytes that are easy for everyone to ignore.Today, combined with the practical experience of the formula, let's talk about how electrolytes affect the emulsification system of makeup remover oil, and how to use emulsifiers to easily improve the stability of the formula.
Which ingredients are electrolytes in cosmetic formulas?
Electrolytes In chemistry and formulation science refers to substances that can dissociate into ions and conduct electricity in a solvent (usually water).
Electrolytes in cosmetics are simply various ingredients that can dissociate ions in water. These ingredients are widely used in effective makeup remover products.Such as PCA zinc, magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride, PCA copper, marine extracts, fermentation filtrate, plant extracts of mineral-rich substances, etc., are common sources of electrolytes in formulas.
Why do electrolytes cause the makeup remover formula system to be unstable?
The core working logic of the makeup remover oil and self-emulsifying cleansing system is very simple: in case of water, a uniform and stable emulsion is quickly formed, which wraps facial oil and makeup dirt, and is easily rinsed away with water.The entire cleaning process is supported by a stable interfacial membrane constructed by the Emulsifier at the oil-water interface.
Once the electrolyte content in the formula is too high, this stable system will be destroyed from multiple dimensions. The specific effects are mainly divided into three categories.
1. Destroy the structure of the emulsifier hydration layer
A layer of hydration layer will be formed on the periphery of the hydrophilic group of the emulsifier, which is the key to ensure the stability of emulsification.The electrolyte will squeeze and destroy this hydration layer, weakening the stability of the interfacial membrane.When implemented into product use and storage, it is prone to problems such as slower emulsification speed, larger particle size of milk droplets, lagging oil-to-milk whitish speed, and poor long-term storage stability of finished products.When used in daily deployment, with an appropriate amount of Bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate 2, it can gently buffer such structural damage and is suitable for most high-electrolyte makeup remover formulas.
2. Improve the interfacial tension of oil and water
The various ions dissociated from the electrolyte will slightly increase the interfacial tension between the oil and water, making the system require more external force and longer to form uniform milk droplets.This is also the main reason for many effective makeup remover oils, which will have incomplete rinsing, makeup residues, and insufficient emulsification.
3. Disrupt the structure and shape of the micelle
The effect of rapid cleaning and rapid oil-to-milk conversion in seconds depends on a stable micelle structure.When the electrolyte concentration in the formula exceeds the standard, the micelle may undergo disordered reorganization and agglomeration. The intuitive manifestation is that the transparency of the product rises and falls, the viscosity fluctuates abnormally, and it is prone to instability such as stratification and turbidity after being stored for a period of time. Phenomenon.
The water quality of hard water will also affect the use effect of makeup remover products
In addition to the electrolytes that come with the formula itself, the water quality of consumers' daily use is also a key factor affecting the makeup remover experience.Hard water everywhere generally contains a large number of calcium and magnesium ions. These two types of metal ions are also electrolytes and will participate in the oil-water interface reaction and interfere with the emulsification process.
This also explains why there are many makeup remover products that are perfectly up to standard in the laboratory and have excellent stability, and the feedback from users in different regions is very different.In areas with hard water quality, products are prone to poor emulsification, sticky flushing, and decreased cleaning power.
Because of this, when European and American care brands develop makeup remover products, they will focus on the core indicators of hard water adaptability, electrolyte tolerance, flushing performance, and emulsification stability. When deploying, they will also give priority to Water in oil emulsifier with strong adaptability to improve the environmental adaptability of the product. degree.
No need to blindly add emulsifiers!This improves the electrolyte resistance of makeup remover oil
Many novice formulators encounter system instability caused by electrolytes, and their first reaction is to increase the amount of emulsifiers added. However, this method not only does not cure the symptoms, but it can also easily cause the product to feel heavy on the skin, acne, and false smoothness.The truly efficient solution is to select an emulsifying system with strong interface stability and wide grease compatibility.：
OILREE® MY943 Sorbeth-30 tetraoleate
MY943 is a highly adaptable nonionic emulsifier with excellent makeup melting ability and broad-spectrum oil compatibility.Whether it is a polar oil or a non-polar oil system, the oil-to-milk effect can be quickly achieved, the interface stability effect is outstanding, and the makeup solubility is also excellent.In high-oil phase makeup remover products, it can build a uniform and stable emulsifying structure, greatly speed up the emulsifying speed in case of water, and effectively offset the system interference caused by electrolytes.
OILREE® MY945 Peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate
This emulsifier is a commonly used main emulsifier for makeup remover products. The core advantage is its excellent self-emulsifying ability. The formulated product feels refreshing and non-sticky, and is suitable for most emollient oils.Relying on the unique isostearate structure, the formula can maintain lightness and fluidity, solve the problem that the high electrolyte formula is prone to heavyness and agglomeration, and create a refreshing experience.When blending the formula of highly moisturizing makeup remover cream, with a small amount of Butyl stearate, the compatibility of the system can be further optimized, taking into account the stability and skin feeling.
MY943+MY945 compound, suitable for high electrolyte makeup remover system
It is difficult for a single emulsifier to take into account cleanliness, system stability, skin feeling and hard water tolerance at the same time. This is also the reason why compound emulsifying systems are generally used in the industry.The combination of MY943 and MY945 can complement each other's shortcomings and build a more complete and stable network.
This combination can effectively improve the product's makeup cleansing power, oil-to-milk speed, and flushing cleanliness. At the same time, it greatly optimizes the adaptability of hard water and electrolyte tolerance, and solves the common formulation problems of effective makeup remover products.It is widely used in makeup remover oil, makeup remover cream, cleansing gel, oil-to-milk cleansing products, and various composite makeup remover systems.
Frequently asked questions
Will electrolytes cause the makeup remover oil to deteriorate in layers?
It will.When the electrolyte concentration in the formula is too high, it will interfere with the interfacial protective film formed by the surfactant, causing the stability of the system to decrease significantly, resulting in turbidity and uneven emulsification of the product. In severe cases, stratification, phase separation and other deterioration problems will directly occur.
Does electrolytes affect the flushing effect of makeup remover products?
There will be a significant impact.Electrolytes will delay the emulsification reaction speed and slow down the process of oil-to-milk conversion, causing the product to fail to be fully emulsified in case of water, and eventually there will be unclean flushing and residual stickiness.
Is hard water a source of electrolyte interference?
Belong.The calcium and magnesium ions contained in hard water are all active electrolytes, which will directly interfere with the emulsification process of makeup remover products, affecting the cleansing effect and use experience.
What emulsifier is suitable for the makeup remover formula containing electrolytes?
Preference is given to non-ionic emulsified complex ligand systems with strong interface stability, such as the combination of MY943 and MY945, which can effectively improve the fault tolerance of the formula, weaken the negative effects of electrolytes and hard water, and ensure stable product performance.
Summary
Today's makeup remover cleansing products have gotten rid of the single positioning of simple makeup remover and have gradually been upgraded to multifunctional skin care cleansing products.In order to increase the added value of the product, formulators will add various active ingredients with various effects, and most of these ingredients will be brought into the electrolyte, which will bring many hidden dangers of instability to the emulsifying system.
If you want to make a high-quality, stable, and multi-scene makeup remover product, figuring out the law of action of electrolytes and cleansing systems is the key to formula research and development.Through the reasonable selection of high-quality emulsifier combinations such as MY943 and MY945, the anti-interference ability of the formula can be effectively improved, so that the product still maintains excellent cleansing power, stability and skin feeling under complex conditions such as high electrolytes and hard water.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
