Phosphate Ester Emulsifiers is a class of functional cosmetic raw materials with both emulsifying, dispersing and interface regulation capabilities. It is widely used in sunscreen products, makeup systems, makeup remover products and high-stability cream systems in modern cosmetics formulation systems.Compared with traditional nonionic or fatty alcohol emulsifiers, the phosphate ester structure has both a hydrophilic phosphate group and a hydrophobic long-chain structure, which makes it exhibit stronger interfacial stability, powder dispersion and electrolyte tolerance in Oil in water emulsifier.
Its chemical structure is a class of amphiphilic organic compounds with a phosphate group as the hydrophilic head and a long–chain alkyl group or an alkylaryl group as the hydrophobic tail. The chemical formula of a phosphate Emulsifier is usually RO–PO(OH)₂、(RO)₂PO(OH) or (RO)₃PO, where R is a straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbon group of the C8 group-C18 group type, such as octyl, decyl, dodecyl, cetyl and isodetecyl alcohol derived groups.Industrial products are mostly mixtures of monoester, diester and triester, and can exist in sodium, ammonium, ethanolamine or non-ionized forms to enhance water solubility and interfacial activity.
Different from conventional glycerostearates, polyglycerides, fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ethers and other traditional emulsifying systems, the biggest core advantage of Phosphate Ester Emulsifiers is that it breaks the functional limitations of a single emulsification and realizes the balance and unity of multiple properties such as emulsification, dispersion, makeup stabilization, waterproof, and adaptation to active ingredients.Our PHSPTER™ series of three phosphate ester products, with differentiated structural design and performance ratio, accurately cover mainstream application scenarios such as makeup remover, sunscreen, makeup-free makeup, and high-stability cream, and adapt to the diversified research and development needs of the current care formula, becoming a benchmark product in the field of functional emulsified raw materials.The three green and safe emulsified raw materials have their own focus and complementary adaptations, which can meet the customized needs of different formulation systems and provide core support for product quality upgrading.
In the research and development of modern cosmetics formulas, Oil in water emulsifier is a widely used matrix system. Most skin care, base makeup, and sunscreen products rely on this system to build a stable structure, and the phosphate series is a high-performance raw material adapted to the O/W system, with both gentle properties and multifunctional characteristics.
PHSPTER™94TS (trilaureth-4 phosphate), the appearance is a light yellow liquid, the packaging specifications are flexible, and it can be adapted to the needs of small and medium-sized samples and large-scale mass production.The HLB value of this raw material is about 12, and it has excellent emulsifying ability. Compared with traditional anionic emulsifiers, it is less irritating and has a milder skin feeling, which is more in line with the current trend of “mild formulation” and “clean beauty”.
Phase conversion performance and powder dispersion performance are the core advantages of 94TS, and they are also an important reason for its rapid popularity in makeup remover, sunscreen and powder systems.In the makeup remover system, the raw material has good phase transition ability. When used with Peg 7 glyceryl cocoate, the makeup remover product architecture and user experience can be optimized.After encountering water, it is quickly emulsified and turned into a delicate emulsion system, which can efficiently dissolve makeup and sunscreen residues, and keep it fresh and free of oily film residues after rinsing, effectively solving the problems of heavy, difficult to rinse, and strong residue of traditional makeup remover products. It is suitable for makeup remover oil, makeup remover cream and cleansing system.
At the same time, its excellent powder dispersion ability can evenly disperse inorganic powders such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and iron oxide, reduce agglomeration, and improve system stability and uniformity.In the sunscreen and makeup system, the coating uniformity and protection consistency can be significantly improved. It is suitable for lotion, sunscreen and makeup matrix systems. The conventional addition amount is 1%-20%.
With the growth of the market for light base makeup products such as makeup cream, brightening cream, and BB cream, consumer demand for lightweight texture, waterproof makeup, and natural finish has continued to increase, and PHSPTER™16PK has been widely used as a result.Potassium cetyl phosphate, the appearance is white powder, the conventional dosage is 1%-5%, and it has high formula flexibility.In practical applications, it can be used in conjunction with Ammonium acetate copolymer to improve film-forming and skin adhesion, and make the makeup effect more natural and long-lasting.
In the actual formula development, the core problem faced by many R&D personnel is that the waterproof system is often accompanied by heavy, stuffy skin and reduced ductility, while the lightweight system is difficult to achieve a balance between sweat resistance and makeup holding performance.Through a unique structural design, 16PK realizes lightweight skin sensation control while forming a stable interface film. It can significantly improve sweating, makeup removal, friction shedding and protection attenuation in sunscreen and makeup-free products, while maintaining good breathability and comfort. It is a typical performance + sensory balance type raw material.
In addition, the raw material has excellent affinity for inorganic powders, which can optimize powder dispersion and film-forming continuity, thereby improving the SPF stability and uniformity of sunscreen products, and is one of the important functional raw materials to improve the performance of sunscreen systems.
For high-power sunscreen and high-oil-phase cream systems, PHSPTER™922P exhibits stronger structural stability advantages.The raw material is a white granular complex ligand system, c20-22 alkyl phosphate /stearyl phosphate /behenyl alcohol. On the basis of retaining the waterproof properties of phosphate esters, it further strengthens the thickening ability and architectural stability. The recommended dosage is 1%-5%.
In high-SPF sunscreen and high-oil-phase cream systems, common problems include oil droplet convergence, stratification, viscosity drift, and freeze-thaw instability.922P cooperatively constructs a denser interfacial membrane structure through long-chain phosphates and high-carbon fatty alcohols, which effectively enhances the oil phase locking ability and inhibits the risk of system stratification.At the same time, it improves the feeling of the cream body and makes the system more delicate and smooth. It is suitable for high-end sunscreen and nourishing cream systems.
In addition to the differentiated advantages of each product, the PHSPTER™ phosphate series also has a wide range of general characteristics, especially its outstanding stability in high electrolyte systems.In active systems containing niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate, amino acids, PCA salts and mineral powders, traditional emulsifying systems are prone to system thinning, stratification or demulsification problems, while phosphate ester systems can significantly improve electrolyte tolerance and ensure long-term stability.
At the same time, the three products are all Grade 1 green and safe functional raw materials, with good skin type compatibility and formula adaptability, and can cover refreshing, moisturizing, high oil phase and high activity systems to meet the needs of multi-scenario development.As a functional emulsifier system, its value is not only reflected in the emulsifying ability, but also includes powder dispersion, film-forming performance, waterproof makeup, system stability, and multi-dimensional functional integration ability of makeup remover to makeup remover.
As the underlying structure of the formula, the emulsification system directly determines the skin feeling, stability and efficacy expression ability of the product.PHSPTER™ series phosphate products are designed with structured functions to provide higher-performance matrix solutions for sunscreen, makeup, base makeup and cleaning products.：
94TS focuses on phase-to-phase makeup remover and powder dispersion, suitable for cleansing and general sunscreen system
16PKG lightweight, waterproof and makeup-holding performance, suitable for light base makeup and daily sunscreen
922P focuses on high stability and strong thickening system, suitable for high-power sunscreen and high-oil cream system.
The three work together to build a complete functional matrix to provide systematic solutions for brand research and development.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
