From the basic sorbitan ester and polysorbate, to the ceteareth system, glyceryl stearate system, to peg-100 stearate, cetearyl glucoside, polyglycerol ester and phosphate ester, there are more and more O/W emulsifiers on the market.
Mingya's current product line of emulsifiers is also constantly expanding under such changes in demand.From the traditional sorbitan and polysorbate systems, to ceteareth, glyceryl stearate, peg-100 stearate, to cetearyl glucoside, polyglycerol and phosphate ester systems, different products correspond to different formulation ideas.
The same is to make a face cream. Some systems require the cream to be thicker, and some want the emulsion to be light and flowing; some formulas still need to be stable after adding a high proportion of vegetable oil, while others need to face the system changes after sunscreens, electrolytes, active substances and other raw materials are added at the same time.
O/W emulsifiers on the market are becoming more and more segmented
Consumers' requirements for skin feeling are getting finer and finer, and the products extend from traditional face creams to essence creams, sunscreens, body creams, infant and child care, makeup remover products, and various lightweight emulsifying systems.Different products have different requirements for fluidity, spreadability, absorption speed, greasy feeling and heavy feeling.
For example, sorbitan and polysorbate systems are more classic nonionic emulsifying systems.Their HLB range covers a wide range, and they can match different oil phases according to the hydrophilic and oleophilic balance.In some more mature formulation systems, such raw materials still have strong use value.
If the formula begins to pursue a more obvious paste structure, or needs better thickening and stabilization effects, the scope of the formulator's consideration may turn to glyceryl stearate, peg-100 stearate and other systems.However, when products begin to emphasize mild, plant-derived, PEG-free or sensitive skin application, the attention of cetearyl glucoside and polyglycerol systems will increase again.
HLB is not a universal formula
HLB can help formulators judge whether the Emulsifier is more hydrophilic or oleophilic, and can also be used as an important reference when choosing an emulsifier.Some raw materials with lower HLB are more suitable for oleophilic systems; raw materials with higher HLB usually have more obvious hydrophilic characteristics.
The oil phase in a face cream may also contain ester oils, vegetable oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes, and other functional oily raw materials.The polarity, viscosity, melting point, and interaction with the emulsifier of different oils and fats may be different. Even if the HLB of the two emulsifiers is close, the final emulsion may be significantly different in viscosity, stability, and skin feel.
The oil phase changes, and the emulsifying system also changes
For a body lotion, if the oil phase is mainly composed of relatively lightweight esters, and the product wants to be made into a lightweight emulsion that is easy to push away, then the emulsifying system cannot blindly pursue high viscosity.If you change to a moisturizing cream and add more vegetable oils, fatty alcohols or high melting point oils to the oil phase, then the emulsifier not only completes the basic emulsification, but also needs to participate in the establishment of the structure of the entire system.
Some ceteareth systems have been used in O/W emulsification systems for a long time, largely because of their mature emulsification and formulation adaptability.Formulators can adjust the emulsion structure through a combination of different hydrophilic and oleophilic properties.For example, Mingya's OILREE® MY92 CETEARETH-2 and OILREE® MY972 CETEARETH-21 can be matched according to the needs of the system.
After the emulsification is stable, the formula must also solve the skin feeling problem
The same oil phase, made with different emulsifying systems, may have completely different product experiences.peg-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate is a more typical type of system.Such combinations can not only be used for O/W emulsification, but also help the system establish a certain viscosity and structure.Mingya's OILREE® MY967 is this type of product. It has a yellowish appearance and can provide emulsification and structural support in the O/W system.
Mild and plant-derived demand is rising, cetearyl glucoside has attracted attention
Another more obvious development route is the mild and plant-derived emulsion system.cetearyl glucoside is one of the more typical types.The core systems of Mingya's OILREE® MY918 are cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, which can be used to establish a liquid crystal O/W emulsified structure.
This emulsifying system is more suitable for some products that emphasize gentle and gentle skin feeling, and can also be applied to infant care, sensitive skin products, and some sunscreen formulas.It is not simply to pursue the thicker the emulsion, the better, but to find a balance between the emulsifying system and the skin's sense of use.
The PEG-free formula has increased, and the polyglycerol system has begun to have more opportunities.
For example, Mingya's PEOFA™MYPS-6, which consists of polyglycerol-6 stearate and polyglycerol-6 behenate, is a PEG-free nonionic O/W emulsifier.This type of system is more suitable for formulas that require mild, lightweight emulsions or spray-type emulsified products.Compared with traditional emulsifiers, the polyglycerol system adds new options to formulators.
The phosphate ester system emphasizes special application requirements
If the formula involves sunscreen products or has higher requirements for system stability and water resistance, the phosphate ester system will also enter the selection range.For example, Mingya's PHSPTER ™94TS TRILAURETH-4 PHOSPHATE and PHSPTER ™16PK POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE can be used in different O/W emulsification systems.The value of such emulsifiers is often not simply to improve the viscosity of the emulsion, but to provide more targeted emulsification support for specific formulation environments.Especially in sunscreen products, the composition of the oil phase is often more complex. In addition to the oil itself, a variety of organic sunscreens, inorganic powders, and other functional ingredients may also be added.
There are also factors other than emulsifiers that need to be dealt with
The stability of the emulsifying system is an overall result.Changes in the oil composition may affect the state of the emulsion; changes in the thickener may cause changes in viscosity; after the electrolyte is added, the architecture may be changed; the concentration of active substances may increase, which may also affect the emulsification stability.Even moisturizers will be involved.For example, GLYCERETH 26 itself is not the main emulsifier in the traditional sense, but after being added to the formula as a moisturizing raw material, it may still affect the viscosity, fluidity and final skin feeling of the system.
The polarity of grease is a variable that is often ignored
The performance of different oils and fats in the formula is not the same.After some low-polar oils are mixed with high-polar ester oils, the environment faced by the emulsifying system has changed.After adding fatty alcohol, wax or high melting point structural fat, the state of the entire oil phase will be further changed.For example, after high-melting-point ester raw materials such as MYRISTYL MYRISTATE are added to the system, in addition to providing softness and skin feeling, they may also participate in the establishment of the cream structure.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
