The Oil in water (O/W) system is the mainstream formula system of skin care creams. Its core advantage is that it is refreshing to apply, easy to absorb, and suitable for most skin types, especially for oily skin and mixed oily skin people.However, if you want to achieve a delicate texture, melt on the touch of the skin, long-lasting moisturizing and not easy to layering, no mud rubbing, and no whitening, you still put forward extremely high requirements for the combination of raw materials and system control.
Recently, we have developed a finished formula of light velvet hydrogel cream through the four-phase step-by-step preparation process of A, B, C, and D.The formula takes O/W as the core system and uses a variety of our iconic raw materials, from moisturizing, emollient, emulsifying to stable thickening to achieve self-developed support in the whole chain. The final product has a light texture like velvet, moisturizing and not oily, smooth application and no whitening, both good stability and skin feeling performance.
I.Research and development background of light velvet hydrogel cream
With the expansion of the population of sensitive skin and the increase in demand for skin care before makeup, consumers' requirements for moisturizing creams are becoming more and more refined: it is necessary to be hydrated and full, but not heavy and sticky, it is necessary to lock in water for a long time, and it is not possible to rub mud and whiten, it is necessary to have a stable system, but also gentle and low irritation.
Traditional oil in water formulas often face several typical problems: improper selection of oils leads to greasy skin, weak emulsification system causes high temperature stratification and water analysis, unreasonable thickening system causes mud rubbing and dandruff, and traditional glycerin moisturizers cause discomfort such as hotness and sticky hands.
In view of the common problems of the above industries, Mingya takes its own raw materials as the core, redesigns the structure of the aqueous phase, oil phase, emulsification, thickening, etc., and through precise dosage control, creates a light velvet hydrogel cream to achieve the core advantages of lightness, moisturizing, stability and smoothness.
II.Formula structure analysis
(1) Phase A
Phase A is the aqueous phase part, which forms the main skeleton of the entire formula, and is responsible for moisturizing, basic moisturizing and initial thickening. The specific composition is：
-Water to 100%
-Glycerin 5%
-2% Capo 940 solution 3%
Glycereth-26 is an upgraded
Moisturizer specially developed for refreshing skin care products.Its molecular weight is more than ten times that of glycerin. It has a full moisturizing feeling but is not sticky. There is almost no burning sensation on the upper skin. It can form a soft moisturizing film on the surface of the skin, which not only enhances hydration, but also does not affect the subsequent skin feeling.In the formula, 3% of the dosage is combined with 5% glycerin to achieve double moisturizing, which not only ensures instant hydration, but also extends the water-locking time, while not making the system sticky and heavy.
The amount of 2% Capo 940 solution and 3% dosage provides a mild consistency for the aqueous phase, making the overall texture feel like a flowing gel, and providing a stable aqueous phase environment for subsequent addition of the oil phase.
(2) Phase B
Phase B is the oil phase and the core of emulsification, which determines the moisturizing degree of the cream, the smoothness of the skin, the speed of application and absorption, and the stability of the system. The specific composition is：
- Ethylhexyl stearate（NSOAF™2EHS）6%
-Polydimethylsiloxane (DC200/100CS) 3%
- 26# Mineral oil 4%
- Cetearyl alcohol or cetearyl glucoside（OILREE®MY918）2%
-Wasp wax 0.5%
Phase B is the highlight of this formula. The three Mingya raw materials work together to make the oil phase “moist but not greasy, stable but not oily.”
Ethylhexyl stearate has excellent spreading and dry skin feeling, can improve the fluidity and permeability of the oil phase, while helping the two phases of oil and water to be better compatible, improve system stability, and make the cream smoother and easier to push.The 6% dosage provides moderate moisturizing without causing an oily film.
Myristyl myristate is a dry emollient oil that can significantly reduce the hardness of the cream, improve the absorption rate of application, and effectively improve the whitening problems common to traditional face creams, making the face more natural and skin-friendly, especially suitable for use before makeup.The addition of 0.8% is just right, which not only optimizes the skin feeling, but also does not affect the architecture.
Cetearyl alcohol or cetearyl glucoside is a liquid crystal
Emulsifier of plant origin. It does not contain EO, is low in irritation, is easy to biodegradable, and has strong compatibility with oil polarity and molecular weight. It can form a stable and uniform O/W structure. At the same time, it has a slow-release effect on active substances, and the skin feels light and soft. It is suitable for sensitive skin, infants and high-power sunscreen systems.A stable emulsified skeleton can be constructed in an amount of 2%, so that the two phases of oil and water will not be layered and will not dilute for a long time.
It is combined with polydimethylsiloxane, mineral oil and wasp wax to further enhance the smoothness and water-locking ability, making the overall oil phase light, moisturizing and stable.
(3) Phase C
Phase C is the neutralizing and anticorrosive phase. Its main role is to regulate the pH of the system, stabilize the carbonic acid and emulsifying structure, and provide anticorrosive protection. The specific composition is：
-Appropriate amount of triethanolamine (adjust pH≈7)
-Phenoxyethanol 0.4%
Triethanolamine adjusts the pH to near neutral, so that the capo is fully thickened and the emulsifying system is more stable, so as to avoid thinning and stratification of the paste due to pH fluctuations.Phenoxyethanol 0.4% is a mild and commonly used anticorrosive system. While ensuring antibacterial effect, it is friendly to mucous membranes and sensitive skin, and complies with cosmetic safety regulations.
(4) Phase D
Phase D is a thickened and stable phase, and only one Mingya high-efficiency thickened suspension raw material is used. The specific composition is：
The raw material is an efficient water-based thickener, with cosmetic-grade mineral oil as the solvent, environmentally friendly and low odor, and an effective content of 60%. It can make the appearance of the paste body delicate and shiny, dry and non-rubbing mud, non-fouling, and at the same time has excellent water resistance, alkali resistance, and biological hydrolysis resistance. The stability of the product under different temperature environments is significantly improved, and it prevents thinning and stratification after long-term use.The amount of 0.45% can achieve the ideal consistency and suspension stability effect, without affecting the feeling of light fleece.
III.Finished product performance
Through the combination of A/B/C/D, the light velvet hydrogel cream exhibits a very balanced comprehensive performance：
1. The texture is as light as velvet: the cream is delicate, soft and waxy, melts when touched on the skin, and has no heavy waxy feeling.
2. The skin feels refreshing and non-sticky: it absorbs quickly after application, does not shine, does not stick to hands, and does not rub mud.
3. Effectively improve the problem of whitening: thanks to the addition of myristyl myristate, the application is uniform and translucent.
4.Moisturizing, long-lasting and gentle: Glycereth-26 is used with oil to lock in water, long-lasting moisturizing and non-drying.
5.The system is highly stable: plant liquid crystal emulsification + high-efficiency
Thickening suspension, high temperature and low temperature are not easy to stratify and do not deteriorate.
IV.Self-developed raw material value
The successful research and development of this light velvet hydrogel cream fully reflects our comprehensive advantages in the field of cosmetic raw materials.From moisturizers, emollient oils, plant emulsifiers to thickening suspensions, a variety of core raw materials are independently developed and produced. They not only have controllable performance and stable quality, but also can achieve a highly adaptable formula combination to avoid the problems of poor compatibility between raw materials from different manufacturers and difficult system adjustment.
For the brand, the formula is extremely practical：
-The structure is complete and can be directly mass-produced.
-Gentle and low irritation, can locate sensitive muscles, available for pregnant women, and suitable for infants.
-Advanced skin feeling, suitable for high-end lines, pre-makeup moisturizing, spring and summer refreshing creams and other scenes.
-Strong stability, reduce after-sales risks, and improve product reputation.
Conclusion
From the construction of the basic aqueous phase to the emulsification of the stable oil phase, to the fine matching of the pH adjustment and thickening system, this light velvet hydrogel cream formula fully demonstrates the synergistic advantages of self-developed raw materials in the oil-in-water system.The formula takes authenticity, stability, and landing as the core, taking into account skin feeling, moisturizing and safety. It not only solves common problems in the industry such as easy whitening, easy mud rubbing, and unstable system of traditional creams, but also provides the brand with a set of mature solutions that can be directly applied and flexibly adjusted.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
