Body care has changed from additional skin care steps to the daily needs of the public, especially in dry climates, problems such as peeling, tightness and itching of the limbs frequently occur, promoting the continuous expansion of the body lotion market.Mingya relies on a variety of self-developed raw materials to build a classic oil-in-water emulsion system, finding a balance between moisturizing power and skin feeling, and providing a reference for the research and development and proofing of body lotion in the industry.
I. The complete structure of the three-phase division of labor
This reference formula for moisturizing body lotion is divided into three parts: A aqueous phase, B oily phase, and C functional phase according to the production process. Different phases bear their own functions.Phase A mainly plays the role of moisturizing, stabilizing the system and thickening; phase B brings together emulsifiers, various oils and fatty alcohols, which are the core source of skin nourishing effects; phase C only contains anticorrosive components, which need to be put into the material body in a low temperature environment to ensure the safety of microorganisms during the product shelf life.The formula uses deionized water as the carrier of the system, and various raw materials cooperate with each other to jointly determine the appearance, viscosity, upper body feeling and actual moisturizing performance of the finished product.
1.1 Phase A aqueous phase: Build a stable moisturizing colloidal substrate
The aqueous phase is the carrier substrate of the entire emulsion system, and the formula A phase combines moisturizing raw materials, metal ion chelating agents, and compound colloids.The moisturizing module is combined with 2% GLYCERETH-26, 1% propylene glycol, and 3% glycerin, relying on polyols to synergistically capture the moisture of the stratum corneum to complete the basic hydration.The molecular weight of OILREE®MY EG-26 GLYCERETH-26 is more than ten times higher than that of ordinary glycerin. It has outstanding moisturizing power but does not bring a stuffy skin feeling. It can also avoid the skin burning phenomenon that is prone to high levels of glycerin. It is very suitable for body lotion. Care products that stay on the surface of the skin for a long time.The system also introduces OILREE®MY9176 PEG/PPG-17/6 COPOLYMER, which has the dual properties of moisturizing and lubricating, which can reduce the overall stickiness of the formula and bring a smooth and delicate touch when applied and pushed away.
In order to eliminate the hidden dangers caused by metal ions in the water and avoid problems such as discoloration and deterioration of the finished product, 0.1% edta 2na is added to the formula to play a chelating role.In terms of thickening, 0.5% capo and 0.2% translucent Hansoh glue are used for compounding. The two colloids work together to build a three-dimensional mesh structure of the aqueous phase, giving the emulsion a suitable viscosity and enhancing the system's ability to resist stratification after the emulsification is completed.
1.2 B-phase oil phase: collaborative design of emulsion, grease and paste skeleton
The B-phase oil phase is the core of achieving softness and nourishment of the skin, and contains emulsified components, solid lipids, fatty alcohols, and a variety of functional oils.The main Emulsifier uses 2% OILREE®MY967 PEG-100 STEARATE/GLYCERYL STEARATE. This emulsified raw material is very adaptable to non-polar oils such as mineral oils. It can be used alone to obtain a good emulsifying and stabilizing effect. It is widely used in various creams and emulsions. Among products.With 1% OILREE®MY S60 SORBITAN STEARATE, the raw material itself is a w/o type emulsifier. After compounding with Tween series raw materials, a stable oil-in-water system can also be constructed, which can be compatible with oils of different polarities and broaden the range of formula oil selection.
0.2% of OILREE®MY722 TRIBEHENIN is added to the oil phase. It is a high molecular weight fat-soluble material with a yellowish to white appearance. It can be used as a thickening component of the oil phase and can also strengthen the stability of the emulsifying system. It has a certain waterproof ability. In addition to body creams, sunscreen and makeup products often use this raw material.In order to adjust the hardness of the paste and the ability to spread, the formula is compounded with 0.2% behenol and 0.4% cetyl alcohol, supplemented by 0.5% type 40 monoglyceride.Fatty alcohol can strengthen the internal skeleton of the cream body, prevent excessive thinning of the material body under high temperature storage environment, and moderately increase the moisturizing film retained after application without causing excessive heavy burden.
The oil combination takes into account the two major directions of sealing and water-locking and penetration softening. 2% mineral oil achieves the sealing effect through film formation and reduces the loss of moisture inside the skin; 2% c12 c15 alcohol parabens optimize the ductility of emulsion application; 4% of NSOAF™MCT CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE is an oleophilic softener with outstanding stability, colorless and odorless. It still maintains a transparent liquid state under low temperature conditions. It has excellent compatibility with mineral oils, vegetable oils, and fatty alcohols. The skin feels light and friendly to the skin. It is often seen in baby skin care, sunscreen lotion, and shower oil formulas; 2% of NSOAF™IPP ISOPROPYL PALMITATE is a transparent liquid oil that can optimize the body of the cream. Auxiliary nourishing ingredients penetrate into the shallow layers of the skin and are widely used in sunscreen and base makeup formulas.When developing Makeup moisturizer products, this set of grease compounding ideas also has high reference significance.
1.3 C-phase functional phase: control the feeding temperature to protect the anticorrosive effect
The C-phase component in the formula is simple, containing only 0.45% phenoxyethanol, which is responsible for the anticorrosive work of the system.The process clearly requires that after the two phases of water and oil are homogenized and mixed, they are cooled to 45℃ before being put into the C-phase material.The feeding temperature is too high, which will cause the loss of phenoxyethanol volatilization and weaken the anti-corrosion protection ability.After the material is cast, stir and mix well, the material body is cooled to 37℃, and the material is discharged after completing the testing of various indicators.
II.Key details of industrial production to avoid common quality problems of emulsions
Temperature control is the first priority, and both phases A and B need to reach 80℃ before mixing.The temperature is not enough, the oil-phase solid lipids do not melt thoroughly, and the colloids do not swell completely, and particles and stratification are prone to occur in the follow-up.The second is the emulsification and homogenization step. Phase B is slowly added to Phase A and homogenized for 3 minutes. Relying on mechanical shear force, the oil phase is broken into tiny droplets and evenly dispersed in the aqueous phase to form a stable oil-in-water structure.
The cooling process is also not fast, and gentle cooling is more conducive to the full integration of various substances in the system. 45℃ is the key node for adding phenoxyethanol, and it cannot be fed in advance.The material body is cooled to 37℃ to complete the detection and discharge.When building an oil-in-water system, the selection of oil in water emulsion will directly affect the tolerance of the emulsion to temperature changes and grease replacement.
The moisturizing raw materials of the aqueous phase polyols capture the moisture of the stratum corneum to complete the hydration; OILREE®MY9176 regulates the skin feeling and improves the sticky disadvantages of the polyols; the mineral oils in the oil phase form a closed film to reduce the loss of percutaneous moisture and achieve water locking; lightweight oils such as NSOAF™MCT and NSOAF™IPP are applied smoothly and help the ingredients penetrate; fatty alcohol and Sanshan Behen essence strengthen the cream skeleton and improve storage stability.Among them, the moisturizing raw material OILREE®MY EG-26, which is GLYCERETH 26, has the advantages of low fever, heavy moisturizing but not sticky, but it is not that the higher the amount added, the better the effect. Excessive addition will still cause the skin to feel sticky.
III. Conclusion
Ordinary consumers who buy body lotion do not have to fall into the tangle of whether a single raw material is good or bad. The actual use experience of skin care products and the pursuit of long-lasting water-locking effect can pay attention to the closed type of oil in the formula; if you prefer a refreshing and easy-to-push experience, you can pay attention to the proportion of light liquid oil; people with sensitive skin can pay more attention to the anticorrosive system and flavor-related components.With the same body lotion, there will be differences in the experience of different skin types. Dry skin attaches more importance to the ability to seal and lock water, and oily skin will be more concerned about whether the overall skin feeling is refreshing.The domestic skin care industry is booming, and the continuous precipitation of domestic raw materials and basic formula technology will continue to help more high-quality local body care products be born to meet the diverse skin care needs of consumers.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
