NSOAF™ PTIS
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Synthetic ester oils｜Hypoallergenic and adaptable structural emollient
Product positioning and technical background
NSOAF™ PTIS is a synthetic oil of high molecular weight polyol esters. In the current cosmetic oil phase system, it is mainly responsible for two things-to do structural Emollients and regulate the stability of the system at the same time.
Unlike the traditional oil system that relies on volatile solvents and strong film-forming resins, PTIS does not pursue “rapid film-forming” or “maximizing a certain function”, but relies on its own stable molecular structure and good oil continuity to adjust the skin feeling and physical structure of the formula system to a balanced and comfortable state.
Whether it is sensitive skin care products, light-burden makeup, or sunscreen that requires long-term makeup, the core value of PTIS is not how powerful a single function is, but as a “structural unit” in the oil phase, it helps to build a stable formula system and make the entire product more reliable.
Molecular structure characteristics and system behavior
PTIS is a highly branched ester structure composed of a pentaerythritol skeleton and multiple isostearic acid chains. This structure makes it not easy to crystallize in the oil phase system, its fluidity is also very stable, and it is not easy to go wrong.
When actually making the formula, this structure can bring several very practical features：
First of all, it can maintain the continuity of the oil phase well. Whether it is the temperature change during processing or the effect of stirring and shearing, it is not easy to destroy its structure, and it can ensure that the texture of the product is stable during production and storage, and it will not change easily.
Secondly, its molecular structure is full and there are many branches. The oily film formed on the skin will not be hard, and it does not have that heavy sense of closure. On the contrary, it is very soft and easy to extend, and the upper face is not stuffy and sticky.
In addition, it has a good wetting effect on the toner particles. Even if it is not added too much, it can make the toner disperse more evenly in the system, making the texture and appearance of the product more stable and uniform.
Redefining the role of system functions
Now that we are making cosmetic formulas, everyone's positioning of PTIS has changed-it is no longer regarded as a simple emollient oil, but more used to adjust the oil phase structure.
In emollient products, it is mainly to improve the smoothness of the oil phase, reduce the friction inside the system, and make the product more coherent and silky when applied. It will not be like some high-sealing oils. It is stuffy and heavy after application, and there will be a residual feeling.
In makeup, its advantages are even more obvious. Relying on the excellent wetting ability of the toner, the pigment can be distributed more evenly in the oil phase. Whether it is base makeup or lip products, the color rendering will be more uniform and stable, and there will be no dark and light situations.
In sunscreen products, the oil film formed by it can enhance the water resistance of the product without increasing the heavy sense of closure. It can not only ensure the waterproof effect, but also not make the skin feel worse, so as to achieve both waterproof and comfortable.
In general, in the entire formula, PTIS is like a buffer layer, which can reduce the irritation of those highly volatile solvents, high-strength resins, and highly active surface systems to the skin, making the product milder and more comfortable to use.
Now that cosmetic formulas are becoming more and more complex, the design ideas of grease systems have also changed.
In the past, most of the greases were made in pursuit of a single function to achieve the ultimate-for example, trying to extend the makeup holding time, enhance the waterproof ability, or make the film forming speed faster, but the price of doing so is that the system will become stiff and it will be uncomfortable to use for a long time.
Because of this, high molecular weight synthetic esters such as PTIS have attracted renewed attention.The core reason is that it can maintain the stability of the entire formula system without relying on high-intensity stimulation, taking into account function and comfort.
Especially when used with silicon elastomer systems such as Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, PTIS can effectively reduce the powder feeling of the system and the dryness in the later stage, making the overall touch more uniform and softer, and it will not feel uncomfortable for long-term use.This way of matching, in fact, it can be seen that the design of the makeup system is now shifting from “pile function” to “heavy comfort”.
Structural contribution in the emulsifying system
In the emulsifying system, PTIS is not the main Emulsifier and does not participate in the interfacial activity reaction. It is more like a stabilizing factor in the oil phase, helping to stabilize the entire system.
Especially in O/W or complex multiphase emulsifying systems, its oil connection continuity is very good, which can reduce the risk of oil droplet aggregation and oil-water separation, and make the physical stability of the entire system better. It is not easy to have problems of stratification and precipitation.
If the Water in oil emulsifier system is used, PTIS can improve the ductility of the oil phase and make the emulsion structure more uniform, so that the texture of the product will not fluctuate easily during long-term storage, and the stability is more guaranteed.
Its mode of action is very simple. It does not rely on high emulsifying activity, but on optimizing the physical structure to make the entire system more stable without adding too many complex excipients.
Technical significance under the trend of hypoallergenic adaptation
In the past few years, the sensitive muscle care market has become more and more popular, which has also led to fundamental changes in the idea of formula design.
When consumers choose products, they no longer only look at the short-term efficacy, but also pay more attention to the long-term comfort and discomfort, and whether it will increase the burden on the skin.
In this case, hypoallergenic adaptation is no longer an additional feature of the product, but an important factor to be considered when designing the grease system.
The advantage of PTIS is here-it can achieve two goals at the same time without relying on highly active stimulation: stabilize the oil phase structure and optimize skin feeling.
Because of this, it is particularly adaptable in the current “low-burden, gentle” formula system, whether it is sensitive skin products or daily light skin care products, it can be used.
Synergistic mechanism with structural auxiliary raw materials
When the actual factory makes the formula, PTIS is usually used in combination with structural thickeners and wax raw materials, which can build a more stable oil phase network structure.
For example, the raw materials TRIBEHENIN and CETYL PALMITATE are mainly used to build a basic structural support network, just like building the “skeleton” of a house; and PTIS is responsible for filling the gaps in the oil phase, optimizing the lubrication effect, so that the continuity of the entire system is better, the skin feeling is more consistent, and there will be no local roughness or local stickiness.
In some composite emulsifying systems, such as the Peg 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate system, PTIS can also be used to improve the flow performance of the oil phase, so that the system can maintain a stable state regardless of different temperatures or after stirring and shearing, and it is not easy to go wrong.
Process adaptation and processing characteristics
Under conventional cosmetic processing conditions, PTIS has good adaptability and does not need to be specially adjusted for complex processes.
Whether it is heating and mixing, homogenizing and emulsifying, or cooling and forming, its structure is very stable, it will not decompose easily, there will be no obvious phase transition, and the texture of the product will not change due to the processing process.
Moreover, during shearing, its rheological performance is very stable, which can reduce the fluctuations of the system in the production process.
In addition, it has good compatibility with conventional grease and silicon systems. When multiple systems are combined, the flexibility is very high. Formulators can match them at will according to their needs, without fear of incompatible and layered problems.
Conclusion: The transition from functional grease to structural grease
NSOAF™ PTIS is not only an ordinary emollient raw material, but also represents a class of structural synthetic ester systems that are being redefined.
In the current cosmetic formula, the significance of such raw materials is more reflected in these aspects：
· Stabilize the oil phase structure to make the system more stable
· Control irritation to make the product milder and more suitable for long-term use
· Make the toner disperse more evenly and improve the appearance and use effect of the product
· Optimize the skin feeling of long-term use and make the product more comfortable
· Can be compatible with a variety of systems and adapt to more product types
PTIS, on the other hand, is at the core of this technological transformation and has become the preferred raw material for many formulators when designing low-burden and high-stability formulas.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
