Relying on our own green raw materials, we have innovatively built a three-phase step-by-step preparation process of A, B, and C, and landed a complete formula of O/W system SPF30+ sunscreen. The complete ratio has been tested by high temperature circulation, waterproof, and powder dispersion. The finished product is smooth and easy to push away, the film is dense, water-resistant and sweat-resistant, and the long-term protection is stable. It provides a mature technical solution for skin care and sunscreen oem brands that can be directly mass-produced.
I.Oil in water sunscreen R&D industry pain points
With the advantages of light texture, no burden on the skin, and adaptability to all skin types, Oil in water sunscreen sunscreen is the mainstream system of offline circulation and online mass sunscreen products, but there are three research and development shortcomings that are difficult to reconcile for a long time.
First, it is difficult to disperse the physical sunscreen powder.Inorganic powders of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can easily agglomerate and settle, which will not only reduce the actual sun protection index, but also cause whitening and mottling of mud. Ordinary emulsifying additives cannot fully cover the powder, and problems of stratification and precipitation occur frequently after storage.
Second, there is no balance between refreshing skin feeling and moisturizing.The simple use of lightweight oils will cause dryness and tightness, and the addition of highly moisturizing oils will cause heavy and slimy, slow film formation, and easy to suffocate the skin after long-term wear.
Third, the waterproof and sweat-resistant performance is weak.The continuity of film formation of conventional Emollients is poor, the protective film is damaged after sweating and getting wet, and the UV blocking ability is greatly reduced, making it difficult to meet the needs of commuting and outdoor travel. In addition, the limited dissolution of chemical sunscreens, the high irritation of the formula, and the unstable stratification of the high and low temperature storage system are also the key to restricting the quality upgrade of sunscreens.The SPF30+ sunscreen formula raw materials we developed bear the multiple functions of moisturizing and soothing, powder dispersion, chemical sunscreen dissolution, moisturizing film formation, and emulsifying and stabilizing.
II.Formula three-phase disassembly
(1) Phase A
Phase A is all water-soluble raw materials. As the continuous external phase of sunscreen, it is mainly responsible for long-term moisturizing, enhancing the hydration of the system, and assisting in stabilizing the emulsified structure. Specific components：
Deionized water replenishes to 100%, glycerol 5%, hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.1%, OILREE® MY EG-26 (glycereth-26) 2%, sodium benzoate 0.25%.
Glycereth-26 is a classic water-soluble moisturizing raw material of Mingya. It is a safe grade 1 green transparent liquid with a molecular weight of more than ten times that of ordinary glycerin. It moisturizes and fills but does not bring a sticky feeling. After application, the skin's fever and irritation are lower than that of traditional glycerin. It is suitable for products such as sunscreen that adhere to the skin for a long time. The 2% added amount is combined with glycerin to double lock in water and relieve the dryness and tightness caused by sunscreen. As a universal Makeup moisturizer, it can take into account the daily moisturizing and repairing needs of sunscreen and is suitable for long-term use on dry skin and sensitive muscles.As an aqueous thickener, hydroxyethyl cellulose slightly improves the consistency of the aqueous phase and reduces the sedimentation rate of the powder. Sodium benzoate is a mild aqueous phase anticorrosive, inhibits the growth of microorganisms in the aqueous phase, and extends the product shelf life.
(2) Phase B
Phase B is the core sector of the entire sunscreen lotion, including emollient oils, sunscreen solvents, composite emulsifying systems, physical sunscreen powders, and chemical sunscreen additives, which directly determine the powder's dispersion ability, emulsifying stability, skin smoothness, and waterproof film-forming effect. Mingya's six self-developed raw materials are all concentrated here, and each performs its own duties in a coordinated compound.
1. NSOAF ™ MCT (capric capric triglyceride), add 2%
Medium-chain triglyceride lightweight emollient oil, green grade colorless transparent liquid, excellent permeability of small molecular structure, can greatly reduce the irritation of the entire sunscreen formula to the skin, balance the burden of a high proportion of sunscreens.At the same time, it can be used as an oil coupling medium to reconcile the compatibility between silicon, synthetic esters, and mineral oils, so that the cream is evenly and smoothly, and a low addition of 2% can weaken the stuffy skin feeling of heavy oil and create a refreshing and watery texture.
2. NSOAF™1815 (ppg 15 stearyl ether), add 3%
High-polarity special sunscreen solvents are the key raw materials for dissolving oil-soluble chemical sunscreens. They can couple polar and non-polar oils and fats to achieve miscibility between ethanol and mineral oil, optimize the liquid structure of the oil phase, avoid low-temperature precipitation and crystallization of chemical sunscreens, and ensure stable and undiminished SPF protection.It is used with silicon-based raw materials to further weaken the false smoothness and stickiness caused by silicone oil and enhance the lightness of application.
3. NSOAF™PTIS (pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate), add 3%
High-performance emollient film-forming synthetic esters, yellow liquid texture, breathable and not stuffy, can build a continuous flexible protective film in the sunscreen system, which is the basis for the product's water resistance and sweat resistance.The unique molecular structure will not affect the viscosity and foam stability of the system, and there will be no thinning of the cream after long-term storage. After application, a thin and light hydrophobic layer will be formed on the surface of the skin to resist sweat and water scouring, and greatly extend the duration of sunscreen.
4. OILREE® MY6530 (glyceryl stearate se), add 2%
Classic oil-in-water self-emulsifying stabilizer, white and yellowish particles, suitable for all kinds of O/W sunscreen systems, the recommended dosage range is 1-10%, the 2% addition of this formula can assist the composite emulsifying system to strengthen the oil-water interface film, improve the storage stability of high and low temperature, prevent the system from stratification and water analysis, and optimize the soft and waxy texture of the paste, push it away without resistance, and reduce stuck powder and mud.
5. PHSPTER™94TS (trilaureth-4 phosphate), add 1 amount%
The core powder dispersion Emulsifier of the formula has an HLB value of about 12. It is a mild anionic Oil in water emulsifier, which is less irritating than traditional phosphate emulsifiers, and has a strong powder coating and phase transfer dispersion ability. It is a key component in the treatment of titanium dioxide inorganic sunscreen powder.It can completely wrap the powder particles to prevent agglomeration and precipitation, evenly disperse inorganic sun protection, and improve the actual sun protection index, so that there is no whitish and no graininess when applied. The 1% addition amount is used with other emulsified raw materials to take into account the dispersion power and the system temperature.
6. PEOFA™ MY986 (polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate), add 1 amount%
Plant-based oil-in-water emulsifying ester, yellow liquid, suitable for waterproof and sunscreen system, can be perfectly compatible with the main oil-in-water emulsifier, strengthen the density of the interface film, assist in improving the integrity of the waterproof film, while softening the body of the cream, balance the slight dryness caused by the emulsifier, and adapt to the development of special sunscreen formulas for infants and sensitive skin.
In addition to self-developed raw materials, phase B compound cyclopentamethylene dimethyl siloxane 3%, cetyl polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane 2%, titanium dioxide 3%, cetyl alcohol 3%, ethylhexyl salicylate 3%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamic acid 5%, diethylhexylphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 5%.Silicon-based raw materials optimize silky skin feeling, three types of chemical sunscreen are combined with inorganic titanium dioxide to build broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection, which completely covers the daily ultraviolet band, and cetyl alcohol regulates the consistency of the cream to avoid the system from being too thin and flowing.
(3) Phase C
Phase C contains 0.15% phenoxyethanol, which needs to be cooled to below 45℃ before being put into the system. As an oil-soluble and mild anticorrosive, it supplements the antibacterial ability of the whole system. It is combined with Phase A sodium benzoate to form a broad-spectrum anticorrosive system. It is non-irritating and will not destroy the emulsion and powder dispersion structure formed in the early stage. It is suitable for sunscreen products for sensitive skin.
III.Overall performance of finished products
Relying on the three-phase scientific compatibility of A/B/C, the four core advantages of this SPF30+O/W sunscreen product are outstanding：
1. The powder is evenly dispersed and there is no whitish mud.Trilaureth-4 phosphate is completely coated with inorganic titanium dioxide, stored without precipitation and layering, the upper face is light and translucent, there will be no heavy mask, whitish mottling, and the primer will not rub mud before makeup.
2. The skin feels smooth and refreshing, long-lasting moisturizing and not tight.Glycereth-26 is used with caprylic/capric triglyceride for multiple moisturizing and moisturizing. After the film is formed, it is non-sticky and oily. Oily skin is used in summer without the burden of stuffy skin, and dry skin does not dry out with makeup for a long time.
3. Waterproof and sweat-resistant, long-lasting and stable protection.Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate work together to build a dense hydrophobic protective film. Daily sweating and short-term wading will not quickly release the film. It can be used for outdoor commuting and short-distance swimming.
4. The system is gentle and stable, suitable for many types of skin types.The full set of emulsified and emollient raw materials are all green and low-irritating grade, without strong irritating surface activity and oil. Sensitive muscles, students, and pregnant people can use them with peace of mind. After the high and low temperature cycle test, the cream is uniform without stratification, no crystallization and precipitation, and the mass production has a high fault tolerance rate.
Conclusion
From the water-soluble moisturizing base of phase A to the soothing base, to the Mingya raw materials of phase B to complete the multiple core functions of powder dispersion, emulsification stability, moisturizing, waterproof, and sunscreen dissolution, to the C-phase low-temperature anticorrosive fine blending, this SPF30+ oil-in-water sunscreen formula relies on standardized three-phase production technology to effectively solve the multiple industry pain points of traditional sunscreen powder that is easy to precipitate, sticky, weak waterproof, and highly irritating.The complete set of formula is up to standard in all dimensions of skin feeling, protection, and storage stability. It can be used as a cheap commuter sunscreen for the public, and it can also be used to fine-tune the components to upgrade the high-end skin-nourishing sunscreen series.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
