TRIBEHENIN is the INCI name for behenic acid triglyceride, a triglyceride ester formed by behenic acid (C22:0) and glycerol. As a high molecular weight nonionic wax ester, it is mainly used in personal care and cosmetic formulations to adjust texture, enhance emulsion stability, and provide film-forming protection. Its CAS number is 18641-57-1, the molecular formula is C69H134O6, and the molecular weight is about 1059.8.
Basic properties
Tribehenin appears as a white to off-white crystalline powder or flake with no obvious odor. It is usually synthesized by esterification of behenic acid and glycerol under controlled conditions. Although trace amounts can be found in natural oils and fats, commercial-grade tribehenin is mostly produced by chemical synthesis to ensure purity and consistency.
As a waxy emollient and texture regulator, it is compatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients, including common emulsifiers such as oils, esters, polymers, and
Glycol distearate. It is oil-soluble and can give emulsions and anhydrous systems a specific structure and skin feel.
Role in cosmetics
In cosmetic formulations, tribehenyl glyceryl acts as both a viscosity stabilizer and a moisturizing emollient. When used in creams and lotions, it can strengthen the oil phase, enhance product structure, improve ductility, and prevent emulsion demulsification.
Because it can promote pigment dispersion and enhance color rendering, it is often used in lipsticks, lip balms, and foundations. In sunscreen and waterproof formulas, it can enhance film-forming properties and allow products to adhere better to the skin in humid or sweaty environments.
Its high melting point and rheological properties make it particularly useful in stabilizing emulsions and thickening oil phases, and can also help create innovative textures such as balm (paste), sticks, and oil gels.
Benefits
Tribehenin is a biodegradable, plant-based ingredient (often derived from
Hydrogenated castor oil or natural oils rich in behenic acid), which fits the trend of sustainable, environmentally friendly cosmetics. It provides a soft, moisturized, non-greasy skin feel and achieves long-lasting moisturization by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
When added at 1%–10%, it can not only optimize the overall skin feel of the formula, but also help stabilize the emulsion. It is particularly effective when used in combination with other structurants or emollients in high-performance skin care and makeup systems.