Among personal care products, hair removal cream can be regarded as a relatively special category.It is not like ordinary body lotion, which mainly revolves around moisturizing, moisturizing and skin feeling, nor is it like ordinary cleansing products, which only need to consider the cleansing ability.Hair removal cream not only needs to complete the hair treatment in a relatively short time, but also needs to minimize the discomfort during use, while keeping the product in a stable state of the cream.
Mingya launched a set of hair removal cream formula, using water phase base, glycerin, OILREE®MY EG-26, OILREE®MY92 , OILREE®MY972, fatty alcohol, NSOAF™IPM, NSOAF™MCT and other raw materials, while adding calcium mercaptoacetate, urea and other auxiliary ingredients.From this formula structure, it can be seen that modern hair removal creams do not only focus on hair removal itself, but in addition to the hair removal function, they also comprehensively design the emulsifying structure, skin feeling and formula stability.
What problem does the hair removal cream formula need to solve first
The core purpose of hair removal cream is relatively clear, which is to change the hair structure through specific chemical effects, so as to facilitate the user to remove the hair from the surface of the skin.Hair removal creams usually need to come into direct contact with the skin and need to stay on the surface of the skin for a certain period of time.Therefore, if the formula is too irritating, the use experience is easily affected; if the paste is too thin, uneven application may occur; if the emulsifying system is unstable, the product may be layered, oil analysis or state changes during storage.
Hair removal cream formulas usually need to consider several aspects at the same time：
- The active system can function normally.
- The paste needs to have the right consistency and ductility.
- The oil phase and the water phase need to form a relatively stable system.
- To have a smoother application during use.
- You can't leave too obvious greasy feeling after cleaning.
The aqueous phase is not a simple part of hydration
OILREE®MY EG-26 GLYCERETH-26 here it can assume a certain moisturizing and skin feeling regulation effect.OILREE®MY EG-26 It has a more obvious moisturizing feeling, but compared with the simple use of glycerin, the overall skin feeling can be thicker without appearing too sticky.Because the product needs to form a relatively uniform covering layer on the surface of the skin.If the system is too dry, the spread will be affected; if the system is too sticky, it will also make the user feel heavy.The combination of moisturizers allows the aqueous phase part not only to assume the role of solvent, but to participate in the final design of the sense of use.
In addition, transparent Hansoh glue is also used in the formula, and this kind of thickening structure still has a certain significance for the state of the paste.Through the combination of the aqueous phase thickening and the emulsifying system, the product can be helped to form a state suitable for application.
Why do OILREE®MY92 and OILREE®MY972 need to be matched
In this hair removal cream formula, a more obvious feature is the use of OILREE®MY92 CETEARETH-2 and OILREE®MY972 CETEARETH-21 at the same time.This reflects the importance of the emulsifying system in hair removal cream.Hair removal cream is not a simple water-based product, it also adds a variety of oily raw materials.The aqueous phase and the oil phase themselves cannot naturally form a long-term stable uniform system, so a stable interfacial structure needs to be established with the help of an Emulsifier.
OILREE®MY92 and OILREE®MY972 are common combinations of nonionic emulsifiers, and the combination of the two can help build an O/W type emulsifying system.In the actual formulation design, it is not that the higher the amount of emulsifier added, the better.The ratio between different emulsifiers, the amount of fatty alcohol, the composition of the oil phase, and the temperature and shear conditions in the production process will all affect the final emulsifying state.The choice of Oil in water emulsion cannot only look at the HLB value of a single product, but also needs to be judged based on the specific oil phase, active ingredient and production conditions.
Why does the oil phase choose NSOAF™IPM and NSOAF™MCT at the same time
NSOAF™IPM Isopropyl myristate is a relatively classic lightweight grease with low viscosity and good spreading properties.Putting it in the hair removal cream can help improve the smoothness of the product when applied, and it can also make the cream easier to spread out evenly.
If the paste is too heavy, the user may need to push it away repeatedly; if the product is too thin, it may be difficult to keep it in the target area.The appropriate oil phase can help the product form a smoother coating feeling.NSOAF™MCT CAPRYLIC/CAPRICTRIGLYCERIDE is also a class of softeners that are more used in personal care products.It usually has good oxidation stability and lighter skin feeling, and has good compatibility with a variety of cosmetic raw materials.
NSOAF™IPM can help the hair removal cream obtain a more obvious spread and smoothness, while NSOAF™MCT can further adjust the overall performance of softness and oil phase.After the combination of the two, the hair removal cream can maintain a certain body structure while avoiding the feeling of relying solely on a high proportion of fatty alcohol that is too heavy.
Why does emulsification stability affect the end-use experience
If the emulsifying system is unstable, the oil phase may gradually precipitate; if the structure is too strong, it may also cause the paste to be hard, affecting extrusion and application.The aqueous phase and the oil phase are treated separately, and then mixed at a relatively suitable temperature, which can help the emulsifier and the oil phase form a more uniform system.
Especially the group of structures OILREE®MY92 , OILREE®MY972 and fatty alcohol are more sensitive to temperature.When the temperature does not reach the appropriate range, some solid or waxy raw materials may not be fully melted; if the mixing and homogenization are insufficient, it may affect the final emulsified state.
Judging from the choice of raw materials, the development direction of hair removal cream formula
In the past, consumers might only pay attention to the speed of hair removal, but now they pay more attention to the product, including whether the cream is easy to push away, whether it is smooth when used, whether it is easy to clean, whether there is a significant dryness after use, and whether the product is stable during storage.
This also makes the basic raw materials in the formula more and more important.For example, NSOAF™IPM is not an active ingredient in hair removal, but can participate in product design from the perspective of oil phase and skin feeling;NSOAF™MCT is also not the main functional ingredient of the product, but can help adjust the softness and oil phase performance; OILREE®MY EG-26 It is not a hair removal raw material in the traditional sense, but it can participate in the construction of the overall moisturizing feeling.
Conclusion
Hair removal cream seems to be just a relatively simple personal care product, but after entering the formula development stage, you will find that it involves a lot of content.From the aqueous phase to the oily phase, from emulsifiers to moisturizers, to the active system and production process of hair removal, every link may affect the state of the final product.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
