In skin care products, makeup, sunscreen products and personal care formulas, oils and Emollients not only assume the basic moisturizing effect, but also affect the product's spreadability, gloss, skin feeling after use, and the overall stability of the formula.
The NSOAF™ ININ, NSOAF™ CE08, NSOAF™ MCT and NSOAF™ 1815 in the Mingya NSOAF™ series have different raw material characteristics and application directions.By understanding the characteristics of these products, we can more clearly understand the selection ideas of Synthetic oils and fats in different formulas.
I. Starting from spreadability
Spreadability is one of the important factors in evaluating the experience of using emollients.It affects the speed at which the product expands on the surface of the skin, the resistance to application, and the sense of oily film formed during use.
For creams, lotions and eye care products, if the oil phase is not spread well enough, you may feel a more obvious heavy feeling or resistance to application when using it; if the spread is too fast, you also need to combine the overall structure of the formula to avoid the product lacks the expected moisturizing and wrapping feeling.
- NSOAF™ ININ: Focus on light spreading and dry skin feeling
NSOAF™ ININ ISONONYL ISONONANOATE is a lightweight synthetic ester with good ductility, silky and dry skin feeling when applied, and it is not easy to produce obvious greasy residues after use. NSOAF™ ININ can be used in formulas such as lotions, creams, eye care and makeup remover products.It can be used as a formula to improve the feeling of oily application and reduce the heavy and greasy feeling, and it can also be used as a candidate raw material for emollients,
and it can work well together with Isopropyl myristate when you want to adjust the initial slip of the emulsion.
II. Understand the polarity of grease
Polarity is a factor worth paying attention to in oil phase design.There are differences in the molecular structure of different oils and fats, and the interaction with other oil phase raw materials, active ingredients, and toner may also be different.
In the actual formula, the polarity of grease will affect the compatibility choice between raw materials, and it is also related to the dissolution, dispersion and system performance of certain ingredients.Therefore, when constructing the oil phase, it is necessary to consider whether there is suitable compatibility between different raw materials, rather than simply superimposing multiple emollients.
III. Pay attention to dissolution and dispersion
In skin care and makeup formulas, in addition to providing emollient effects, some raw materials also need to perform functions such as solubilizing, dispersing, or assisting in emulsification.For example, some formulas need to introduce oil-soluble ingredients into the system, while some makeup products need to pay attention to the dispersion of toner in the oil phase.
- NSOAF™ 1815: Taking into account the needs of lubrication, solubilization and dispersion
NSOAF™ 1815 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER, which is a polyether raw material, can play an emulsifying, solubilizing and dispersing role in the formula, and has a lubricating effect at the same time.In skin care products, it can also be used as a lubricant to make the product appear drier.It can also be used in skin care, hair care, bath oils and sunscreen products.
In actual development, NSOAF™ 1815 can be used as a functional auxiliary raw material, especially when the formula needs to take into account oil phase compatibility, dispersion requirements and sense of use. For products that need to build an emulsifying system, it is also necessary to consider the compatibility relationship between emulsifiers, oils and other auxiliary raw materials, and PEG 60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL is a common option to match it for solubilizing perfume and lipophilic actives.
IV. From gloss to toner dispersion
Different products have different requirements for the oil phase.Skin care creams usually pay more attention to softness and residue after application, while lipsticks, lipsticks and other makeup products also need to consider factors such as gloss performance, toner dispersion and product adhesion.For makeup formulas, grease not only affects the lubricity of the product, but also participates in the formation of the visual texture of the product.
- NSOAF™ CE08: Suitable for moisturizing, toner dispersion and gloss needs
NSOAF™ CE08 CETYL ETHYLHEXANOATE is a transparent liquid synthetic ester with good spreading, dispersability and moisturizing properties, as well as waterproof-related properties.Its application range includes moisturizers, sunscreens, lipsticks, lipsticks and hair care and conditioning products.
In makeup formulas, NSOAF™ CE08 can be used to disperse lipstick pigments and can also be used as a lip brightener in lipstick.For formulas that need to take into account toner dispersion, application texture and gloss performance, they can be included as candidate raw materials.
V. How to choose the base oil phase
In addition to skin feeling, luster and dispersion ability, the choice of base oil phase is also important.In lotions, creams, sunscreen lotions, and hair care products, oils usually need to be combined with other oil-phase raw materials to build a system.Therefore, in addition to paying attention to the sense of use of a single raw material, it is also necessary to consider the compatibility between oils and fats, formula stability and processing conditions.
- NSOAF™ MCT: Basic emollient oil for a variety of personal care formulas
NSOAF™ MCT CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE is an oleophilic softener with high antioxidant stability and a colorless transparent liquid in appearance.This product is compatible and includes mineral oils, vegetable oils and simple fatty alcohols.
In terms of application, NSOAF™ MCT can be used in skin care creams, lotions, sunscreen lotions, hair care creams, shower oils, hair care oils, baby creams and other makeup products.
Compared with some emollients that focus more on specific skin sensation or functional needs, NSOAF™ MCT is more suitable for investigation from the perspective of base oil phase and compatibility.For formulas that need to build a variety of oil combinations, they can be used as candidate basic emollient oils, and then other synthetic esters or functional oils can be selected to match according to the target texture.When preparing rich cream systems, formulators sometimes add Bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate 2 alongside NSOAF™MCT to adjust the after-feel and film flexibility.
VI. Water resistance and adhesion performance
Water resistance is one of the indicators that sunscreen products, some makeup and long-lasting personal care products need to pay attention to.
In these products, the oil phase not only needs to provide an emollient and application experience, but may also be involved in affecting the adhesion state of the product on the surface of the skin.NSOAF™ CE08 has waterproof properties and can be used in products such as sunscreen, lipstick and lipstick.However, the waterproof performance of the final product is not determined by a single emollient, but also related to film-forming agents, waxes, emulsifying systems and other formula components.
VII. How to choose the four NSOAF ™ products according to the formula requirements
NSOAF™ ININ is more suitable for products with light spreading and dry skin feeling; NSOAF™ CE08 can be selected around the needs of makeup dispersion, gloss and waterproofing; NSOAF™ MCT is suitable for formulas that focus on the base oil phase and the compatibility of multiple raw materials; NSOAF™1815 focuses more on functional needs such as solubilization, dispersion and lubrication.
VIII. Starting from the formula goal, establish a more reasonable oil combination
In actual development, it is often difficult for a single emollient to meet all needs.The combination of different oils and fats can help adjust the overall sense of use and functional performance of the formula.
For example, lightweight face creams can give priority to the spreading and dry characteristics of NSOAF™ ININ, and then match other oils according to the needs of the system; makeup products can be tested around the toner dispersion and gloss-related applications of NSOAF™ CE08; basic emulsions can evaluate the compatibility of NSOAF™ MCT with other oil-phase raw materials; if the formula also needs the auxiliary effect of solubilization or dispersion, NSOAF™ 1815 can be further investigated.
Conclusion
The selection of synthetic oils and emollients is an important part of the design of personal care formulas.From spreadability, polarity and solubility, to gloss, water resistance and final skin feeling, each requirement needs to be judged in combination with product positioning and overall formula.
Mingya NSOAF™ ININ, NSOAF™ CE08, NSOAF™ MCT and NSOAF™ 1815 cover different directions such as light moisturizing, makeup and waterproof related applications, base oil phase and functional assistance.Through reasonable screening and formula testing, emollients can be selected in a more targeted manner and an oil phase structure that meets the needs of the product can be established.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
