In-cosmetics Global 2025: The Big Four lead the innovation of raw materials
In April 2025, in-cosmetics Global ended successfully in Amsterdam.Among them, the four major suppliers of Evonik, Vytrus Biotech, Laboratoires Expanscience, and Ashland rely on breakthrough core raw materials to accurately hit market pain points such as anti-aging, scalp care, gentle cleansing, and natural anticorrosion, providing brands with diversified product upgrade solutions.For brand customers who pursue differentiated competition and product strength improvement, these innovative raw materials are not only technical endorsements, but also key grippers to leverage market growth.
The innovation and iteration of Cosmetic Raw Materials has become the core link of the brand's core competitiveness.In this exhibition, the four major suppliers focused on cutting-edge directions such as bio-based technology, stem cell culture, and micro-ecological regulation. The raw materials launched have passed authoritative clinical verification and are adapted to mainstream trends such as natural and pure beauty, providing customers with technical solutions and product story materials.
I.Evonik
As the world's leading supplier of specialty chemicals, Evonik presented a comprehensive matrix of bio-based active and functional raw materials at this exhibition, from anti-aging, cleansing to scalp care and barrier repair, to achieve full category coverage and accurately match the upgrade needs of brand customers in different product lines.Among them, Vecollage® Fortify GP bionic type III collagen polypeptide has become the focus raw material in the field of anti-aging with its unique dual-effect anti-aging mechanism.
Vecollage® Fortify GP is prepared by biological fermentation process and is a 100% human type III collagen fragment. It has the advantages of preservative-free and vegetarian-friendly, which fits the current trend of pure beauty.Through the dual path of epigenetic regulation and exosome-mediated signals, it can not only inhibit collagen degradation, but also promote collagen regeneration, strengthen the dermal–epidermal connection (DEJ), and take effect in a low dosage of 0.3-2.5%. It can accelerate barrier reconstruction in post-medical repair, while achieving uniform skin tone and reducing color sink. It is suitable for high-end anti-aging, sensitive muscle anti-aging and other product lines.For brand customers who specialize in recombinant collagen and peptide ingredients, this raw material can be compounded with it, strengthening the differentiated selling point.
In the field of cleaning, Evonik launched RHEANCE® D50 rhamnolipid biological surface activity, breaking the traditional surface activity “gentleness and cleanliness are not compatible” dilemma.The raw material is derived from renewable raw materials in Europe, prepared by a patented fermentation process, no sulfate addition, biodegradable and low aquatic toxicity, both gentle cleansing, solubilizing and hair care deposition effects, stable performance in hard water environment, can produce dense and easy-to-rinse foam.For customers who layout a gentle and clean series, it can be used to replace some traditional surface activities, create the core selling point of “sulfate-free, bio-based, and degradable”, and easily adapt to natural certified formulas to form technical synergies.
In addition, dermosoft® GPT MB multifunctional antibacterial wetting agent and SKINLIPIX® HydraShield ceramide stabilization system solve the pain points of natural formula anticorrosion and barrier repair formula simplification, respectively.The former is derived from renewable raw materials and is prepared by a green catalytic process. It is gentle and does not destroy the skin's microecology. It can achieve broad-spectrum antibacterial synergistic effects and optimize skin feeling. It can replace or reduce the amount of traditional preservatives. It is especially suitable for sensitive skin, maternal and infant and scalp care products.As a water-soluble ready-to-use ceramide complex, the latter can be combined with the brand's existing ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids to upgrade the concept of “bionic barrier”, simplifying the formulation process and reducing costs while improving product stability and skin feel.CapilMax® amino acid plant compound hair care raw material, relying on the compound advantages of 11 kinds of stratum corneum amino acids and multiple plant extracts, realizes the effects of strengthening hair, instant thickening, and scalp moisturizing, and provides new solutions for anti-peeling, dyeing and perm repair hair care products.
II.Vytrus Biotech
In this exhibition, Vytrus Biotech won the silver award in the innovation zone with Clarivine™ grape flower stem cell raw material, which has opened up a new track of cell-level anti-aging with a unique “telomere protection + autophagy activation” mechanism, and has become the focus of attention of high-end beauty brands.
Clarivine™ is derived from grape flower stem cell culture and is 100% natural. Its core mechanism is to simulate the “fasting” state of cells, activate cell autophagy, protect telomere integrity, resist oxidative stress, delay cell aging from the root cause, and reduce lipofuscin (aging pigment) deposition.Clinical data show that at a concentration of 1%, 28 days can increase the potential of cell autophagy by 29%, and the uniformity of skin tone is significantly improved; 56 days can increase the autophagy ability by 38%, dark spots and melanin are reduced by 31%, and the yellow gas problem is effectively alleviated. It perfectly fits the consumer needs of “glass muscle, cell longevity, anti-dullness”, and is suitable for high-end anti-aging, staying up late for first aid, brightening, anti-aging and other product lines.
For brand customers, the innovative value of Clarivine ™ lies in its ability to be combined with existing antioxidant, anti-sugar, and mitochondrial-enabling raw materials to build a triple anti-aging logic of “autophagy + telomere + energy”, accurately benchmarking “cell longevity”, “fasting skin care” and other industry hotspots, greatly enhancing product premium capabilities and story.Among the products on the first aid line of staying up late, the clinical data of “28 days of autophagy activation, 56 days of whitening and uniformity” can be used, and the brand's instant brightening and repairing ingredients can be used in synergy to create a “daytime protection + night autophagy” day and night care plan, strengthen the visualization of efficacy, and enhance consumer trust.At the same time, its natural stem cell properties and non-irritating properties can be combined with soothing and barrier repair raw materials to solve the core pain points of “anti-aging and non-redness” of sensitive muscles.
III.Laboratoires Expanscience
With the explosive growth of the scalp care market, consumers' demand for scalp health, dyeing and perm repair, and sun protection is becoming more and more refined.The three innovative raw materials Soline® Bio, Ormesia®, and Pixalia® launched by Keyan this time provide targeted solutions for brand customers from the three dimensions of UV damage repair, hair coloring and fixing, and scalp micro-ecological regulation.
Soline®Bio is derived from sunflower seeds and obtained through sustainable agriculture. It is rich in plant lipids and non-saponified substances. Its core effect is to repair UVB/UVA-induced scalp and hair damage, strengthen the scalp and hair barrier, and reduce dryness and fracture caused by photoaging.The raw material can be widely used in sunscreen care, repair after sunlight exposure, light protection after dyeing and perm, etc., to fill the market gap of “dual sunscreen for scalp and hair” for brands, and adapt to outdoor, sports and other scene-based needs.
Ormesia® passionflower extract accurately hits the market pain points of color protection after dyeing. It can effectively reduce dye loss and improve hair color fastness. At the same time, it has the effect of softening hair and improving frizz. It can be used in color protection shampoo, conditioner, hair mask and long-lasting color fixing styling products after dyeing.For customers who have a dyeing and perm repair series, Ormesia® and Soline® Bio can be combined to combine their own keratin, amino acids, and lipid raw materials to create a three-in-one solution of “color fixing + anti-UV + repair”.
Pixalia® is a polyphenol raw material, with the micro-ecological regulation of the scalp as the core, by regulating the balance of the scalp flora, inhibiting harmful bacteria related to dandruff, achieving oil control, anti-dandruff, soothing effects, and improving the health of the scalp from the root cause.The plant-derived properties of this raw material are in line with the natural trend. It can be combined with the brand's existing anti-dandruff, oil-controlling, and soothing raw materials to replace or reduce traditional anti-dandruff agents such as zinc pyrithionium (ZPT), enhance product gentleness and natural properties, and adapt to anti-dandruff shampoo, oil-controlling scalp essence, sensitive scalp care and other product lines.
IV.Ashland
Under the trend of natural and sustainable beauty, compliance and the natural properties of raw materials have become the core considerations of brand research and development.Ashland's Phyteq Raspberry Raspberry ketone and Sensiva SC50 natural bio-based ethylhexyl glycerin launched this time provide efficient and compliant anticorrosive and efficacy solutions for natural formulas.
Phyteq Raspberry is derived from raspberry extract. It has significant natural source properties. Through AI-assisted efficacy prediction and screening technology, it has broad-spectrum antibacterial ability, which can effectively inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi, improve formula stability, and is gentle and non-irritating. It is suitable for skin care, hair care, makeup and other natural formulas.For customers who pursue the positioning of “clean beauty”, this raw material can be used as a high-quality alternative to traditional preservatives, taking into account the anticorrosive properties and natural properties, and helping the product pass the international natural certification.
Sensiva SC50 natural version realizes the core upgrade on the basis of the original product, using 100% bio-based carbon sources, in line with Chinese and international natural and sustainable certification standards, while retaining the original antibacterial synergistic, fragrance-setting, and moisturizing properties.This raw material can not only be used for anticorrosive boost, but also to optimize the fragrance setting effect and product skin feeling.
Summary
Judging from the innovative achievements of the four major suppliers in this exhibition, beauty raw materials are accelerating iteration in the direction of bio-based, naturalization, precise efficacy, and sustainability.The application of biological fermentation, stem cell culture and other technologies has made the efficacy of raw materials more clinically supported, while meeting consumer needs for safety and naturalness.
For brands, choosing innovative raw materials that fit their own positioning can not only upgrade product efficacy, but also build a unique brand story and technical barriers.For example, in the anti-aging track, raw materials such as Vecollage® Fortify GP and Clarivine™ can be used to create cell-level, multi-channel anti-aging solutions; in the scalp care track, raw materials such as Pixalia® and CapilMax® can be used to strengthen the core selling points of micro-ecological regulation and strong repair; in the field of natural formulas, raw materials such as RHEANCE® D50 and Phyteq Raspberry can help brands achieve the multiple goals of “gentle, sustainable and compliance”.
In the formulation application, existing ingredients can be flexibly combined according to their own product system, such as the synergy of SKINLIPIX® HydraShield and
Moisturizing Agent to further enhance the barrier repair and moisturizing effect, and make the product effect more layered.
The innovative raw materials launched by the four major suppliers of this in-cosmetics Global exhibition undoubtedly provide the brand with a high-quality upgrade gripper, helping the brand to stand out in the fierce market competition.At the same time, in the application process of raw materials, we can pay attention to the synergy and collocation of
Skin Conditioning Agents to optimize the skin feeling and efficacy experience of the product.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
