Oil-in-water (O/W) liquid crystal structure moisturizing cream formula, the entire formula adopts an integrated phase separation feeding process, the ratio of each raw material is added after the skin feeling, high and low temperature stability is measured, the finished product can form a liquid crystal film highly similar to the lipid structure of the stratum corneum, light and smooth to apply, moisturizing but not sticky to the hands, the skin is soft and delicate after absorption, it is a mature solution suitable for the daily maintenance of stability and moisturizing of all skin types, and it also provides a complete reference for skin care brands to create gentle and repairing creams that can be directly mass-produced.
LCD moisturizing system research and development background
The stratum corneum on the surface of the skin relies on the lipid bimolecular layer to lock in internal moisture. Once the lipid is damaged, the moisture will be lost quickly, and problems such as dryness, peeling, and sensitive redness will follow.Ordinary moisturizing creams simply mix moisture with oil, cannot simulate the skin's original lipid structure, and have limited water-locking ability.To construct a liquid crystal structure, the core lies in the selection of liquid crystal-type emulsified raw materials of natural origin, with suitable lightweight emollient oils and mild stabilizing additives, which can stably form a continuous liquid crystal film.
However, the threshold for debugging the formula of the liquid crystal system is not low. The procurement cost of similar imported liquid crystal emulsified raw materials on the market is high, and the compounding compatibility is poor, which is prone to problems such as paste layering, rough texture, and whitening.At the same time, many emollient oils are heavy and blocked, which will destroy the breathable structure of the liquid crystal film and make the product lose its refreshing feeling of use.The liquid crystal moisturizing cream formula developed by Mingya this time uses three raw materials, Cetearyl olivate/Sorbitan olivate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, and Beheneth-25, as the core skeleton, relying on natural liquid crystal emulsification with light and soft oils, to solve the industry pain points of high cost of liquid crystal system, heavy skin feeling, and unstable system from the raw material level.
As a mature Oil in water emulsifier application solution, the complete formula does not need to be complicated with a variety of emulsifying additives, the process is simple and easy to operate, and it is highly adaptable to production equipment.
Formula analysis
1. VEGEFIERS™MY CSO 99 (cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate) Additive 3%
This raw material is the core of the entire formula, and it is also a liquid crystal type nonionic Emulsifier of natural origin. It is directly benchmarked with imported Olivem 1000 to achieve 1:1 performance substitution, with outstanding cost-effective advantages.It can spontaneously form a delicate and regular liquid crystal film structure during the mixing of oil and water. The film is highly similar to the lipid bimolecular structure of the human stratum corneum. After being applied to the skin, it can firmly lock in the moisture of the epidermis, greatly reduce the rate of percutaneous moisture loss, and improve the moisturizing and repairing ability of the product for a long time.
The raw materials are gentle and non-irritating, and do not contain irritating chemical groups. They can be adapted to sensitive muscles, dry and sensitive skin, and fragile skin in season. The addition of 3% is just enough to build a complete and continuous liquid crystal mesh structure. It will not cause the liquid crystal film to break due to insufficient addition, nor will it cause the cream to be heavy and hard in excess. It is a key component to achieve long-lasting moisturizing and gentle repair.
2. The addition of NSOAF™2EHP (ethylhexyl palmitate) is 7.5%
Ethylhexyl palmitate is a lightweight and soft oil with excellent overall performance, transparent liquid texture, excellent chemical stability and thermal stability characteristics, suitable for all kinds of O/W skin care systems.It has excellent spreading and breathability. It will not form a heavy oily film when applied to the skin. It can penetrate quickly and not stuffy the skin. It effectively neutralizes the sticky residue caused by heavy waxy and silicone oils, making the cream smooth and light to use.
At the same time, this oil has excellent emulsification compatibility. When used with cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate liquid crystal emulsifier, it will not destroy the liquid crystal mesh structure, and it can also assist the liquid crystal film to spread evenly, further optimizing the feel of the skin. After absorption, the skin feels soft and delicate to the touch, and there will be no oily residue.
3. OILREE® MY922-25 (Beheneth-25) additive 1%
Beheneth-25 is a green grade nonionic surfactant with a white granular appearance. It is used as an auxiliary thickening and stabilizing aid in this formula.It can assist liquid crystal emulsifiers to strengthen the oil-water interface film, improve the high and low temperature resistance of the entire O/W system, and avoid problems such as water analysis, stratification, and thinning of the paste in long-term storage.
The low addition amount of 1% will not change the overall refreshing skin feeling. At the same time, the consistency of the cream can be adjusted, so that the liquid crystal cream has a soft and waxy texture, beautiful canning and forming, and the application time is greatly improved. The synergistic effect of the polyol moisturizing system further extends the moisturizing residence time. As a gentle Makeup moisturizer supporting component, it can also be compatible with pre-makeup primer use scenarios.
Functional description of the remaining auxiliary components
Water is used as the base of the formula to replenish to 100%, and 10% glycerin is used to build a basic polyol moisturizing system, which continuously replenishes moisture for the epidermis and relieves dryness and tightness.
Add 0.2% to the acrylyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/vp copolymer as an aqueous thickener to fine-tune the viscosity of the aqueous phase and reduce the probability of oil floating.
EDTA-2Na 0.05% metal ion chelating agent, complexing metal impurities in water, preventing oxidation and discoloration of raw materials, and extending product shelf life.
It is combined with 7.5% polydimethylsiloxane and 2% docosanol to further enhance the silky feel, soften the rough texture of the keratin, and adjust the degree of softness and hardness of the cream.
0.5% phenoxyethanol and 0.1% flavor have mild anticorrosive and perfuming effects, respectively. The added amount is low in irritation, will not destroy the liquid crystal structure, and is suitable for long-term daily use on the skin of the public.
Advantages of comprehensive use of finished products
First, the long-term water-locking and repairing barrier, the liquid crystal film fits the skin's native lipids, slowly releases moisture, and can be applied once in the morning and evening to maintain moisture throughout the day. People who are dry and peeling in the season and the barrier is slightly damaged insist on using it, which can significantly improve skin tightness, redness and discomfort.
Second, the texture is light and non-sticky. ethylhexyl palmitate lightweight oil is combined with silicon raw materials. It is smooth and easy to push away, absorbs quickly, and does not leave a heavy oily film. Oily skin is used in summer without the burden of acne, and dry skin is used in autumn and winter. Sufficient moisturizing power, to achieve a two-way balance between refreshing and moisturizing.
Third, the formula is gentle and suitable for a wide range of people. The core emulsifying and emollient raw materials are all low-irritating green grade, alcohol-free and non-irritating surface activity. Basic moisturizing for children, sensitive muscle repair, and daily skin care for pregnant women can all be used. The brand can simultaneously develop two subdivided products, the popular affordable line and the special repair line for sensitive muscles.
Application value
First of all, the compatibility and adaptability of raw materials is high, and there is no need to purchase a variety of auxiliary emulsifying and emollient raw materials, eliminating a lot of formula debugging and experimental costs, and greatly shortening the new product development and landing cycle.
Secondly, CSO99 can directly replace imported liquid crystal emulsified raw materials, significantly reducing the cost of raw material procurement, helping brands increase product profit margins, and forming a dual differentiation advantage of price and texture in the homogenized market of moisturizing creams.
The complete set of raw materials has a wide range of application scenarios. In addition to this basic moisturizing cream, it can also be extended to repair lotion, sensitive skin essence milk, baby Moisturizer, makeup moisturizing milk and other O/W system products.
Conclusion
From cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate to build the core liquid crystal water-locking structure, to ethylhexyl palmitate to optimize the lightness and smoothness of the skin, to beheneth-25 to assist in stabilizing the entire O/W system, this liquid crystal moisturizing cream formula relies on clear component matching and mature and stable production technology to effectively solve the traditional moisturizing cream weak water lock, heavy skin feeling, and high raw material cost industry pain points.
In the future, we will continue to focus on the research and development of natural gentle emulsified raw materials and liquid crystal skin care systems, and continue to output mature skin care formulas that can be directly landed, bringing more gentle, long-lasting and comfortable daily moisturizing skin care options to the majority of consumers.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
