With the continuous changes in consumer demand for daily hair care, the development of conditioner products has gradually extended from basic softening care to a more segmented experience.In addition to the softness and ease of combing of the hair, the texture of the product, the ductility during application, the hair feeling after rinsing, and the overall freshness have also become factors to be considered in formula development.
Around this application direction, Mingya's R&D team has developed a refreshing and supple conditioner.The formula uses OSMFACT® MY1831ES STEARTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE as the main cationic conditioning component, with cetearyl alcohol, plant-derived oils, and a variety of water-phase auxiliary raw materials. Through the combination of different raw materials, the formula design ideas of refreshing conditioner are explored, and we also refer to the matching logic commonly seen with Cationic Softener in many hair care formulations.
I.Refreshing and supple conditioner
In the design of conditioner formula, the choice of raw materials needs to be combined with product positioning and expected use experience.Different types of raw materials bear different formulation functions, and a reasonable addition ratio is an important basis for forming a complete formulation structure.
This conditioner mainly contains four types of raw materials：
- Cationic conditioning component: OSMFACT® MY1831ES STEARTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE , as the main hair conditioning raw material.
- Fatty alcohol component: cetearyl alcohol, involved in the construction of the formula structure.
- Grease and auxiliary functional components: tocopheryl acetate, butyrospermum parkii butter and simmondsia chinensis.
- Auxiliary components of the aqueous phase: butylene glycol, hexanediol and sorbitol.
Among them, OSMFACT® MY1831ES STEARTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE and cetearyl alcohol form an important conditioning basis for the formula. Vegetable oils and fats provide different oil phase components for the formula, while polyol raw materials participate in the design of the aqueous phase part.
II.Application of OSMFACT® MY1831ES in conditioner
In this R&D formula, the most worthy of attention is Mingya's own product OSMFACT® MY1831ES, whose INCI name is STEARTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE.
OSMFACT® MY1831ES belongs to alkyl quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactants and is a common conditioning raw material in conditioners and other hair care products.This type of raw material has good chemical stability, softening, antistatic and permeable properties, and can be used to improve the conditioning state of hair.
Why do cationic conditioners occupy an important place in conditioner formulas?
During the daily cleaning, combing, dyeing and perm of hair, dryness, knotting, frizz, and static electricity may occur.These problems can affect the touch of the hair and the daily grooming experience.Therefore, in the process of conditioner development, suitable cationic conditioning raw materials are usually selected according to product positioning.OSMFACT® MY1831ES has a narrow carbon chain range.Compared with conventional alkyl quaternary ammonium salt products, this product has more outstanding characteristics in improving hair softness and antistatic properties.
III. The collocation of fatty alcohol: How does cetearyl alcohol participate in the construction of the formula structure
In addition to cationic conditioners, fatty alcohol is also an important part of this conditioner formula.The formula uses cetearyl alcohol.It is a fatty alcohol raw material composed of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and it is widely used in conditioners, skin creams and other personal care products.In conditioner formulas, fatty alcohol is not just a simple oil-phase additive.It can also participate in the formation of the architecture and work with cationic conditioners to affect the overall texture of the product.
This research and development combines cetearyl alcohol with steartrimonium chloride. The two play different roles in the formula: the former is mainly involved in the construction of the architecture, while the latter is the main cationic conditioning component.
IV. The combination of vegetable oils and fats: the application of shea butter and jojoba-derived raw materials
In addition to cationic conditioners and fatty alcohols, the oil component is also a part of the conditioner formula design that needs attention.
In this R&D formula, two plant-derived oil raw materials were selected, namely butyrospermum parkii butter and simmondsia chinensis.
butyrospermum parkii butter, or shea butter, is a common plant-derived oil in personal care products.It has certain moisturizing properties and is widely used in skin care, body care and hair care products.In this conditioner formula, shea butter participates in the overall formula design as an oil phase component to provide the product with plant-derived oil components.
simmondsia chinensis is a raw material of Jojoba origin and has a wide range of applications in personal care products.Jojoba oil has the composition characteristics that distinguish it from many common vegetable oils, so it has application value in different types of skin care and hair care products.
Why use these two raw materials at the same time?
There are differences in the composition, physical properties and application characteristics of different vegetable oils and fats.For example, in the oil phase design of other personal care products, different types of grease raw materials such as Hydrogenated castor oil may also be considered.
V. Auxiliary functional raw materials: the position of tocopheryl acetate in the formula
tocopheryl acetate is also added to this formula. As a vitamin E derivative, tocopheryl acetate is a common functional raw material in personal care products and is used in skin care and hair care formulas.
In this conditioner, it participates in the overall formula design as an auxiliary component, and together with vegetable oils and other raw materials, it forms the raw material combination of the product.
VI.Selection of aqueous phase raw materials: from moisturizing components to overall formula matching
A conditioner not only needs to consider the oil phase and conditioning system, but the aqueous phase components are also an important part of the formula design.
This formula uses three kinds of water-phase auxiliary raw materials：
Butylene glycol is a common polyol raw material in personal care products. It has application value in moisturizers and solvents, and can be used in different types of aqueous phase systems.
hexanediol is one of the auxiliary ingredients used in personal care formulas.
Sorbitol is a hygroscopic polyol, which is commonly used in the design of moisturizing-related formulas for skin care and hair care products.
In this formula, these three raw materials and water together form the aqueous phase part.The selection of aqueous phase raw materials not only needs to pay attention to the characteristics of a single raw material, but also needs to consider its compatibility and proportion of use in the complete system. For example, in the development of other personal care products, GLYCERETH 26 is also one of the water-related raw materials that can be understood.
Conclusion
The development of a refreshing and supple conditioner needs to consider the collocation relationship between cationic conditioners, fatty alcohols, vegetable oils and water-phase auxiliary raw materials.
The OSMFACT® MY1831ES used in this refreshing and supple conditioner formula is one of the cationic conditioning raw materials independently developed and produced by Mingya.The product has a narrow range of carbon chains and has its own characteristics in terms of improving hair softness and antistatic properties. It is mainly aimed at the application of hair care, hair dyeing and perm products.
In the future, Mingya will continue to focus on the practical application needs of personal care raw materials, carry out more formula exploration and application research, and provide raw material support for the development of hair care, skin care and other personal care products.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
