[Industry observation] With the refined development of personal care and cosmetic formulation technology, the subdivision value of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifiers as basic raw materials is gradually becoming prominent.Although the two types of products commonly used in the market, “oil-in-water
Emulsifier” and “oil-in-water emulsifier pair”, belong to the same category of
Oil in water emulsifier, there are significant differences in their composition structure, adaptation scenarios and application logic.Recently, through combing the formula of Youshu series products, we were able to clearly distinguish the technical boundaries and market positioning of the two.
I.From the perspective of composition structure: differences
1. Oil-in-water emulsifier (single dose)
The core of oil-in-water emulsifiers (O/W Emulsifiers) is a single amphiphilic molecule-this type of molecule has both hydrophilic and oleophilic groups, which can independently complete the emulsification action of grasping the oil phase and connecting the aqueous phase.For example, the “glyceryl stearate se” corresponding to MY6530 is a typical single-dose ingredient: one end of its molecule can be combined with grease, and the other end can be integrated into the aqueous phase. Adding proportionally to the formula allows the oil and water to be stably mixed into a uniform emulsion.
The composition structure of this kind of single dose determines its universality-there is no need to match other emulsified ingredients, and it can act as the main emulsifier. As long as the temperature and addition amount are controlled (generally 3%-8%), it can be adapted to most basic formulas.Like the cheap moisturizing lotions we use every day, many of them use this kind of single dose as the core emulsifying raw material.
2. Oil-in-water emulsifier pair
The oil-in-water emulsifier pair (O/W emulsifier pair) is a combination of two ingredients.For example, OILREE® MY S20+ MY T20 corresponds to a combination of “sorbitan laurate + polysorbate 20-these two ingredients can be emulsified when used alone, but the effect will be doubled when combined.
Specifically, sorbitan laurate is more oleophilic and is good at stabilizing the oil phase particles. polysorbate 20 is more hydrophilic and can better disperse the oil phase particles that are seen into the aqueous phase.When the two are combined, the emulsified interfacial membrane formed is tighter and the carrying capacity of the complex oil phase is stronger.It's like building blocks. A single building block can stand firmly, but two complementary building blocks together can support more complex shapes.
II.Formula adaptation scenario: Who is more suitable for your product?
The differences in composition and structure directly determine the application scenarios of the two types of emulsifiers-different product positioning, formula complexity, and corresponding choices are completely different.
1. Oil-in-water emulsifier (single dose): cost-effective choice
Single-dose emulsifiers are suitable for basic and standardized formulas.For example, products such as ordinary moisturizing lotions and cheap face creams have relatively simple oil-phase ingredients (usually basic oils such as
Caprylic capric triglyceride), and do not need to carry too many multifunctional ingredients. At this time, a single dose is simple and easy to use. You can take advantage of it.
However, a single dose also has shortcomings: if too many multifunctional oils are added to the formula, or the concentration of active ingredients is high, the emulsifying capacity of a single dose may not be enough. At this time, you have to add additional
Thickening suspension to assist in stabilization, otherwise the emulsion may have problems of stratification and water analysis.
2. Oil-in-water emulsifier pair: responsible for stability
Emulsifiers are the first choice for efficacy-based and complex formulas.For example, essences with a variety of oils and oils, high-concentration active ingredients, and high-end face creams are added. The oil phase composition of such products is complex and the stability of the emulsifying system is extremely demanding. At this time, the synergistic advantages of the emulsifier pair are reflected.
There is also a very important point: the compatibility of emulsifier pairs is better.For example, some formulas will add thickeners such as
Ammonium acrylate copolymer. A single dose may interact slightly with it and affect the skin feeling, but the emulsifier pair is a synergy of the two ingredients, which can be better adapted to this kind of auxiliary raw materials, which can not only ensure stability, but also maintain the refreshing skin feeling of the product.
III.Details in practical applications: from operation to skin feeling differences
In addition to formula adaptability, the two types of emulsifiers also have many details that can easily be ignored in the actual production and product experience.
1. Production operation: ”Simple and direct" VS "precise debugging”
The operating threshold of a single-dose emulsifier is relatively low: during production, the oil phase (including a single dose) and the aqueous phase are heated to about 70℃, and then the oil phase is poured into the aqueous phase and stirred evenly. After cooling down, a stable emulsion can be obtained.
However, the operation of the emulsifier must be more precise: first, the two ingredients must be mixed in a fixed proportion, and then the oil phase must be added to heat and dissolve. The subsequent stirring speed and cooling rate must also be controlled more carefully-if the proportion is adjusted incorrectly, the problem of incomplete emulsification and product whitening may occur.However, for mature factories, these problems can be avoided as long as the proportions and processes are standardized.
2. Product skin feeling: ”Refreshing foundation" VS "Delicate adaptation”
In terms of skin feeling, products made with a single dose of emulsifier usually have a basic and refreshing skin feeling-such as ordinary moisturizing lotions, which will not stick to the face, but will not have a particularly delicate wrapping feeling.The emulsifier will make the skin feel more delicate for the product, because it can disperse the oil phase into smaller particles, which are easier to push away and absorb faster when applied to the face.
For example, a high-end repair cream, made with an emulsifier, will have a denser texture, and can quickly blend into the skin after application, without a feeling of oily film.The same formula made with a single dose may be a little heavier and the absorption speed will be slower.This is also one of the reasons why high-end products are more willing to use emulsifiers-skin feeling is a key factor affecting the consumer experience.
IV.Complementarity of the two types of emulsifiers
Although we distinguish between the two types of emulsifiers, they can sometimes be used in complementary ways in actual recipes.
For example, an emulsion that combines basic moisturizing and mild anti-aging has both basic oils and a small amount of functional ingredients in the formula. At this time, a combination of “single dose + a small amount of emulsifier to ingredients” can be used: glyceryl stearate se is the core single dose, and then a small amount of polysorbate 20 is added, which can not only ensure the stability of the foundation, but also improve the carrying capacity of functional ingredients, while also controlling costs.
V.Summary: Choosing the right emulsifier is half of the success of the formula
Back to the original question: how to choose between oil-in-water emulsifiers and emulsifiers?In fact, the core is to look at your product positioning and formula requirements：
1.If it is a basic, affordable and standardized product, the supplement is enough, it is simple and easy to use and saves money.
2.If you are making functional, high-end and complex products, emulsifiers are a safer choice to ensure stability and skin feeling.
3.If it is a mid-range product, you can try the combination of “single dose + a small amount of emulsifier to ingredients” to take into account the effect and cost.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
