Practical development plan for creating natural pseudo-plain makeup
Relying on its own OILREE® series of cosmetic functional raw materials, Mingya completed the complete development of this oil-in-water makeup cream.The complete set of formula is divided into three phases: A, B, and C, which fully integrates moisturizing, emulsifying and emollient, powder carrying, and anticorrosive pH adjustment.The reasonable selection of Oil in water emulsion is the key to this formula's ability to achieve a refreshing skin feeling while being compatible with powders.
Detailed formula phase separation
The structure of the entire formula is clear. Phase A is the base of the aqueous phase, which is responsible for building the moisturizing network and the viscosity of the aqueous phase; phase B contains emulsifiers, oil wax components, and titanium dioxide paste, which directly determines the texture, makeup effect, and system stability of the cream; phase C bears the anti-corrosion and pH neutralization work, and the finished product is finally neutralized to pH7, taking into account the stability of the system and the mildness of facial use.
Phase A｜Aqueous phase base to build a long-lasting moisturizing and smooth application foundation
The phase A component contains OILREE®MY EG-26, OILREE®MY 9176, AVC, glycerol, and propylene glycol, and is supplemented with deionized water to 100.
OILREE®MY EG-26 GLYCERETH-26 , the molecular weight of this raw material is more than ten times that of ordinary glycerin, which can provide a moisturizing feeling that is plump and heavy, but not sticky and stuffy.Many formulas use glycerin in high doses to enhance moisturizing ability. Consumers are prone to burning sensory irritation on their faces. OILREE®MY EG-26 can significantly improve this phenomenon and is very suitable for all kinds of facial cream products.
The formula is combined with glycerin and propylene glycol in a synergistic combination to build a composite moisturizing system, no longer relying on a single polyol.When the makeup cream is applied to the face, while modifying the skin tone, it can continue to lock in water and reduce the peeling and stuck lines caused by the base makeup.
OILREE®MY 9176 PEG/PPG-17/6 COPOLYMER, a water-soluble transparent liquid raw material, has the dual functions of Moisturizer and lubricant, and the skin feels refreshing, silky and delicate when applied, which can effectively relieve the sticky residue caused by polyols.In addition to being used as a brightening and brightening component in creams, lotions, and essences, this raw material can also be used in styling hair care products.Placed in the formula system of this makeup cream, it mainly improves the smoothness of the cream, assists the titanium dioxide powder paste to spread evenly, reduces the drag caused by the powder, and helps to create a pseudo-makeup effect close to the original skin , Reduce the phenomenon of powder mottling.
Phase B｜The oil phase and the powder phase, emulsifying and carrying the powder, determine the core performance of the paste
Phase B is the core unit of the makeup cream formula, which directly affects the skin feeling, makeup effect and shelf storage stability of the finished product, including OILREE®MY 922P, OILREE®MY 916, 15# white oil, and titanium dioxide powder paste.
OILREE®MY 922P C20-22 ALKYL PHOSPHATE/STEARYL PHOSPHATE/BEHENYL ALCOHOL white particles, phosphates, oil-in-water emulsifiers.The Emulsifier with the phosphate structure has a high affinity with human skin, and has good water resistance after film formation. It is eye-catching for the dispersion and carrying capacity of the most important powder in makeup formulas.After many makeup cream products are stored for a period of time, titanium dioxide will settle and the powder will float and agglomeration. OILREE®MY 922P can carry the titanium dioxide slurry in the formula well, allowing the colored powder to be evenly dispersed throughout the oil-in-water system.
In the fragrance-free clean formula system, it can also release the natural aroma of vegetable oils, reduce dependence on added flavors, and adapt to various skin care and makeup products containing powders such as makeup creams, sunscreens, foundations, etc.The entire formula relies on this emulsifier to build a complete oil-in-water structure. Compared with ordinary emulsifying systems, the powder tolerance has obvious advantages.
OILREE®MY 916 CETYL PALMITATE, white granular waxy raw material.It has excellent emollient ability, plays a stable system in the cream system, and assists in emulsifying and thickening.OILREE®MY 916 can partially replace 1618 alcohol, which effectively relieves the problem of whitening and enhances the silky and advanced touch of the cream.
Its application scenarios are not limited to skin care creams. It can also replace carnauba wax in lipstick formulas. It enhances lip gloss with high refractive index. As a polar synthetic wax, it can also improve the compatibility between different oils and waxes. Compatibility.The formula is combined with 15# white oil to further optimize the smoothness of the paste, and the titanium dioxide paste is used to achieve uniform skin tone and brightening modification. The powder is evenly dispersed under the protection of the emulsifying system to reduce the risk of agglomeration.
Phase C｜anticorrosion and pH neutralization to ensure product safety and long-term stability
Phase C contains phenoxyethanol and triethanolamine.Phenoxyethanol is used as an anticorrosive component to maintain the shelf life of finished products; triethanolamine is used for neutralization and the entire system is adjusted to pH7.The appropriate pH environment can, on the one hand, allow the phosphate emulsifier to exert the best emulsifying properties, on the other hand, improve the adaptability of the finished product to the skin, reduce the risk of irritation, and adapt it to the daily and long-term use of the face.
How OILREE® self-developed raw materials solve the real pain points in the development of makeup cream
This formula uses Mingya's self-developed OILREE® series of raw materials, and each raw material divides and cooperates.OILREE®MYEG-26 improves the burning stickiness caused by high moisturizing; OILREE®MY9176 optimizes the smoothness of application and eliminates the stickiness of polyols; OILREE®MY922P overcomes the problem of powder makeup emulsification and strengthens the dispersion and carrying of powder; OILREE®MY916 optimizes the texture of the cream, improves the whiteness of application, and expands the multiple application scenarios of the formula.
Formula development can easily fall into the dilemma of losing one another. In pursuit of high moisturizing, the skin feels easy to stick; in pursuit of stable cream, it is easy to whiten and thicken when applied; after adding the powder, the system is easy to layer out of water.This formula is compounded with a variety of self-developed raw materials to balance the multiple dimensions of moisturizing power, skin feeling, emulsifying stability, and powder compatibility.Laureth 7 is widely used in many emulsified formulas, and this formula uses a phosphate emulsion system to achieve gentle skin-friendly while taking into account the powder processing capacity.
This oil-in-water makeup cream formula relies on the refreshing advantages of the oil-in-water system itself, and is equipped with a variety of functional raw materials to fill all kinds of shortcomings.Single glycerin is used for moisturizing, and polymer moisturizing raw materials are combined with polyols to reduce burning discomfort; phosphate-based emulsifiers are used in the emulsification process to take into account skin affinity and powder carrying; waxy selection is optimized to reduce application whiteness and enhance the overall texture of use.
Conclusion
The skin care and makeup fusion market still maintains a growth trend, and light base makeup products such as makeup cream still have broad room for development in the global market.If you want to develop an oil-in-water makeup cream with high market recognition, the selection of emulsification system, the construction of moisturizing system, the matching of oil and wax system, and the dispersion treatment of powder cannot be ignored.
This set of oil-in-water makeup cream formula is based on the OILREE® series of self-developed raw materials as the core support. The three-match ratio has been verified by multiple proofing, taking into account the refreshing skin feeling, natural even skin tone, basic moisturizing and repairing, and excellent storage stability.The overall formula framework is flexible, supports adjustment according to brand demands, and provides a technical reference with landing value for the development of new makeup creams in the beauty industry.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
