Why has PEG-6 Caprylic or Capric Glycerides (OILREE® MY912) become the gold standard for transparent micelle makeup remover?
With the three core advantages of “water-sensitive texture, high-efficiency makeup-dissolving, gentle and low irritation”, transparent gel makeup remover has firmly ranked first in the sales of makeup remover category, and has become the first choice for sensitive skin, light makeup, and skin care minimalists.PEG-6 Capric or Capric Glycerides-MY912 is a high-quality representative of this category. With a recommended dosage of 1-5%, it has become an indispensable soul expression in the formula of transparent makeup remover.
As a model of nonionic surfactants, MY912 fits the formula logic of transparent makeup remover: high HLB value (about 13.2) guarantees water solubility and formula transparency, and the amphiphilic molecular structure is constructed with nano-micelles to achieve water-soluble oil, gentle properties adapted to sensitive skin cleansing needs.This article will analyze PEG-6 Caprylic or Capric Glycerides (OILREE® MY912) in depth from the four dimensions of the formula of transparent makeup remover, the mechanism of dissolving makeup oils, the core differences from traditional cleansers, and the trend of industry trends.
I. The formula of transparent makeup remover is just needed: non-ionic surface activity is the only solution
The core selling point of transparent micelle makeup remover is “colorless and transparent, refreshing water feeling, no residue”, which puts forward strict requirements for the core surfactants: high water solubility, low cloud point, transparent after miscibility with water, gentle and non-irritating, can form a stable micelle.Among the three categories of anionic, cationic, and nonionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants are categories that can meet all conditions at the same time.
(1) The underlying guarantee of transparent appearance: high HLB value and water-oil compatibility
To achieve transparent texture of makeup remover, the core lies in the HLB value and water solubility of surfactants.The higher the HLB value, the stronger the hydrophilicity, the easier it is to dissolve in water and does not form a turbid emulsion.If the HLB value is too low, it is highly oleophilic, and it is easy to form an emulsifying system with water, causing the product to turn white, turbid, and lose its transparent texture.
-The HLB value of MY912 is about 13.2, which is in the range of high hydrophilicity and low oleophilicity. It is 100% soluble in water and alcohol solvents, and insoluble in grease. After addition, it can form a completely transparent homogeneous system with water, matching the appearance requirements of transparent makeup remover.
-Comparative anionic surfactants (such as SLS/SLES): Although it is highly water-soluble, it is highly irritating, and it is prone to salting turbidity at high concentrations, which cannot be adapted to transparent and gentle formulas.
-Comparative cationic surface activity: it is almost not used in makeup remover (it is easy to combine with the negative charge of the skin to cause irritation and acne), and it is used in
Cationic Softener in hair care products, which has poor compatibility with the cleansing system.
-Compared with other non-ionic surfactants (such as
Coco glucoside): Although Coco glucoside is mild and transparent, the micelle formation ability is weak and the makeup melting efficiency is low, while MY912 can form a stable micelle with a low addition of 1-5%, taking into account transparency, makeup melting power and low cost.
As a standardized product of this ingredient, MY912 has the appearance of a colorless to light yellow coconut-scented transparent liquid. The specifications of 25kg/barrel and 200kg/barrel are adapted to different production capacity requirements. The green grade of 1-3 meets the safety standards of cosmetic raw materials, ensuring that the formula is transparent, safe and stable from the source.
(2) The core premise of mild and low stimulation: non-ionic structure, no charge stimulation
The surface of the skin is weakly acidic (pH5.5 or so) and has a weak negative charge. The anionic surface activity (such as soap base, SLS) is negatively charged, which is easy to produce electrostatic repulsion with the negative charge of the skin and destroys the sebum membrane. The cationic surface activity is positively charged, which is easy to adsorb on the surface of the skin, causing residue and irritation, while the non-ionic surface activity molecules are not charged, have good compatibility with the skin, and there is no electrostatic irritation. It is the first choice for sensitive skin cleansing.
As a non-ionic surface active, MY912 has two main advantages：
1. Fat-nourishing and skin-nourishing genus: Derived from coconut fatty acids and glycerin, it has both moisturizing, moisturizing, and fat-replenishing effects. It can replenish the lipids on the surface of the skin when cleaning to avoid degreasing and tightness. It is different from the traditional superficial cleansing, which is degreasing.
2. Low residue and easy to rinse: The micelle structure disperses quickly in case of water, and there is no oily film and no residue after rinsing. It is not easy to clog pores and cause closure and acne. It is suitable for daily cleansing of oily acne muscles.
II.Makeup oil dissolution mechanism
The core ingredients of makeup (lipstick, eye shadow, foundation, waterproof mascara) are oils, waxes, and lipids (such as mineral lipids, lanolin, beeswax, and synthetic esters). They are naturally not soluble with water. Traditional water cannot dissolve. Makeup remover oil relies on oil to dissolve oil, while transparent makeup remover relies on nano-micelles constructed by PEG-6 Caprylic or Capric Glycerides to achieve “water-soluble oil”, the mechanism is exquisite and efficient.
(1) Amphiphilic molecules
The MY912 molecule is a typical amphiphilic structure
-Hydrophilic head: PEG-6 (polyethylene glycol 6 chain) polar group, easy to bind to water molecules, arranged outward；
-Oleophilic tail: Caprylic acid/capric acid glycerides are non-polar groups, which are easy to bind to makeup oils and gather inward.
When MY912 is dissolved in water, the molecules spontaneously arrange: the hydrophilic head hugs the water molecules, the oleophilic tail avoids the water molecules, and finally gathers to form a micelle-the hydrophilic outer layer wraps the water, and the oleophilic core is formed to prepare for the dissolution of makeup oils.
(2) Three-step makeup melting
The micelle makeup melting process of MY912 is divided into three steps, the whole process does not require physical friction, gentle and thorough：
1. Adsorption and penetration: After the makeup remover comes into contact with the makeup, the micelle quickly penetrates the makeup layer, and the oleophilic tail actively absorbs the oil, wax, and fat molecules in the makeup to break the adhesion between the makeup and the skin.；
2. Wrapping and solubilizing: Multiple micelles work together to embed makeup oil molecules into the oleophilic core to form a micelle-makeup oil complex. At this time, the oil has been completely wrapped and no longer comes into contact with the skin.；
3. Dispersion and peeling: The hydrophilic outer layer with the micelle wrapped in oil is dispersed in water. After gently wiping or rinsing, the micelle complex leaves the skin with the water, without residue and no frictional damage.
(3) Efficient adaptation
The micelle constructed by MY912 has a strong dissolving ability for all types of makeup oils：
-Daily light makeup: foundation, makeup cream, sunscreen (oil-in-water type).
-Holding makeup: matte lipstick, waterproof eye shadow, holding makeup foundation.
-Waterproof makeup: waterproof mascara, eyeliner.
Compared with traditional cleansers, MY912's makeup dissolving mechanism is gentler and more accurate: it does not destroy the skin's sebum membrane, only dissolves makeup oil in a targeted manner, and reduces redness, tingling, dryness and other problems after removing makeup from the root cause.
III.The core difference from traditional high foam cleaners
(1) Cleaning mechanism: foam friction vs micelle adsorption
-Traditional high-foam cleansers: rely on anionic surfactants + a lot of foam, and peel off skin surface oils (including makeup oils and healthy sebum membranes) through physical friction.
-PEG-6 Caprylic or Capric Glycerides makeup remover: No foam design, relying on nano-micelle molecular adsorption to wrap makeup oil, no friction, no damage to the sebum film, precise and gentle cleansing power.
(2) Skin effects: degreasing irritation vs skin nourishing and repairing
-Traditional high-foam cleansers: the skin is tight, dry, and red after cleansing, and long-term use can easily cause sebum film.
-PEG-6 Caprylic or Capric Glycerides makeup Remover: Contains coconut-derived lipids, replenishes lipids when cleansing, and maintains skin water and oil balance.
(3) Formula matching: single strong stimulation vs gentle compound
The traditional high-foam cleanser has a simple formula, focusing on a single anion surface activity, and irritation is inevitable; while MY912 has strong compatibility and can be combined with temperature and ingredients such as Coco glucoside, polyols, plant extracts, and cationic softeners to further enhance the mildness and skin-nourishing effect. , Suitable for high-end skin-nourishing makeup remover formula.
IV.OILREE®MY912（PEG-6 Caprylic or Capric Glycerides）
OILREE® MY912 has the advantages of standardized quality, stable performance, and high cost performance.：
1. Stable quality: strictly follow the safety standards of cosmetic raw materials, 1-3 green grade, colorless to light yellow coconut-scented transparent liquid, stable batch, no odor, no impurities.
2. Excellent performance: HLB value is 13.2, water solubility is 100%, makeup dissolving is efficient, gentle and non-irritating.
3. Flexible specifications: 25kg/barrel, 200kg/barrel two specifications, suitable for small batch proofing and large-scale production.
4. Strong compatibility: it can be combined with a variety of ingredients to adapt to makeup remover formulas with different effects.
5. Widely used: in addition to makeup remover, it can also be used for gentle cleansing, disposable cleaning products, sunscreen solubilization, emulsion emulsification and other scenes. It is a multifunctional non-ionic surface activity.
Hubei Mingya New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
